grannyknot

Well you need a breather of some kind whether it vents to the airbox or not, but the thread siteunseen just posted will answer a lot of your questions.

That depends on what you are going to with the car now (stock vs modified) or might do later, I have always found it's better to keep your options open by putting a short piece of hose on on the pipes you are not going to use, put a plug in the end and clamp to shut them off, the next owner will appreciate it too.

My only reason would be how irritating it is to find an imperial bolt on a metric car and I guess I'm not sure if 1/4x20 is big enough or maybe too big without some testing, whereas with an M7 you know without looking that it will remove all of the old threads.

Those M6 captive nuts are pretty small and thin, not much to bite into, I would go with a re drill and an M7 tap, if the head of the new bolt is too tall you could grind it down to the thickness of the M6 bolt so it won't interfere. The torque on that bolt is only 6-7 ftlbs so you don't need much to grab on to.

Looks like a good show, anyone know what kind of attendance numbers they get? I don't think I can make Atlanta in Oct. busy time of the year for me but mid June, no problem. Looks like a 6-7 hour drive for me.

Studs

When I dismantled my 04/70 240z it had the crenulated rubber washers on it but I don't know if I was the first guy to remove the mustache bar.

They may have added a small Tee fitting just above the pumps output to keep the tank agitated.

No No man, I didn't see any disrespect at all, it's an honest question. I just decided long ago that my comfort was more important and to compensate for that extra weight I started hunting for more power. Of course now I'm completely addicted to 'just a little more' I don't know if the carpet kits for 280's are different but all the 240 carpet kits I have dealt with were feather light, kind of flimsy and cheap

Looks like you have laid out a good plan, since there is no one else around you doing this you might be able to make some good side cash for other car guys near you. So the used slurry will drain into a reservoir under the cabinet then the centrifugal pump that is in the reservoir will pump the slurry back up to the gun that has the air hose attached to it, yes? I've seen sometimes, depending on the weight of the blasting media there will also be a second smaller pump used to agitate the media to keep it suspended so it doesn't just settle to the bottom. Looking forward to your progress, wet blasting does leave a beautiful finish.

$500 for an L24? I literally could not give away the last one I had.

Most of my driving is highway miles so I have added 60lbs of insulation to eliminate some of the noise. Removing weight is certainly one good way to increase your power to weight ratio, the other good way is to simply add more power, that's what I did.

Maybe you and I should go on a pilgramage to the Meca.

Well that doesn't look too bad at all, you'll want to drill out the spot welds on the battery tray so you can remove it and get access to the rust underneath, hopefully you'll find the metal under the tray still solid enough to keep. That area can be a tricky repair sometimes because of the compound curves. I would say you're moving pretty quickly.

Good work, I only noticed a couple of things, The cracks that usually form on top of the dash are horizontal not vertical, vertical is up/down. Wait for the Flex Fiber to cure or set. It won't be drying if it never got wet. I was going to try that stuff but as Wheee says it is pretty dear.

Hi Paul, You're signature is making me dizzy, welcome to the forum, please feel free to post as many pics of your of car as possible, doesn't matter if it is finished or not. We love pics.

Really? Doesn't the rust continue to work away and bubble up the coating?

Or is it? Seems like I've been seeing a lot of vintage cars up for auction lately with the "20 yrs of dust" look on them, I wonder if this isn't a new pre-auction treatment someone has come up with. I can just see the part timer kid with a flour sieve and the contents of a vacuum cleaner Did no one think to throw a cheap cover over these cars?

Well don't let him know your okay with the sunroof! That is a bargaining chip Just remember the rust you see is only a 1/4 of what is really there. Good luck

I hope he's not asking much, there is a lot of work to be done on that body and the sun roof hole lowers the value a lot. I'm not up on 510 prices but they are in fashion at the moment so some guys are willing to pay anything to get one, what is this guy asking for it?

Nope, just loosen the 4 bolts holding the rack onto the cross member then rotate the rack about a 1/4" clock wise from the driver side, if that doesn't clear it you could also grind a little notch into the engine mount for clearance. There is also the chance that the engine mount is on upside down or P/S mount got mixed up with D/S.

It's a great colour on the Z, kind of 'Urban Commando' Can anyone identify that smart looking coupe in the back ground on the flat bed truck? I don't recognize it, may be one of the many cars for the Australian market that we never get?

Actually the vice handle works pretty well as an anvil to bend tight curves around, put anything in the vice that will allow the handle to tighten up in a horizontal position and bend away. Try a few test bends first to get the technique down.

Me too, I've never had a bad bearing from SKF.

I don't think anyone so far is criticizing the car, it's a nice little gem, I'm sure it would be a blast to drive, the only problem is the writer didn't do enough research on the topic of originality. To call a resto-mod period correct is just shabby journalism.