grannyknot

I did some sub assembly line work for Honda a number of years ago and there would be steel bins three feet deep of ball joint assemblies all piled on top of one another as the robot assemblers spit them out, the rubber boots were protected by a cap that sort of looked like the OP's. Once the sub assembly was finished the last guy who did the QC would pull the caps off and they would back to be used again. That's all I have to go on.

High rev headers?

Did you have a dash cam mounted? I keep mine going all the time just for instances like yours. I had some road rager ram me on the high years ago now and it took months for that feeling to go away, it's like every other vehicle is a big unpredictable weapon. Nice to know you walked away from it.

You got it, plastic cap to protect the threads and rubber boot. I had to look that one up, I think this the original description , The original machine had a base plate of prefabulated aluminite, surmounted by a malleable logarithmic casing in such a way that the two main spurving bearings were in a direct line with the pentametric fan. The latter consisted simply of six hydrocoptic marzlevanes, so fitted to the ambifacient lunar waneshaft that side fumbling was effectively prevented. The main winding was of the normal lotus-o-delta type placed in panendermic semi-bovoid slots in the stator, every seventh conductor being connected by a nonreversible tremie pipe to the differential girdlespring on the "up" end of the grammeters.

There are quite a few 2k epoxy primers brands, any good paint shop can put you on to them. But once you have picked a brand stay with it for all the different coats, don't mix and match different companies, it's just safer. Thanks, not original, Jeep colour, anvil grey. If you are going to media blast then I would say do it all at once, interior and exterior, then prime the inside and outside at the same time. Personally I would skip the POR15, it won't work well with standard primers and paint and won't offer more protection than a properly prepared body with standard products

That is great to hear! I went nuts trying to track that one down. The thing that made mine so loud is the hollow space above the threaded insert and below the decorative cap in the knob, I popped the cap off and stuffed some foam in there, along with the plumbers tape it was all quite.

I had something very similar a few years back, I tried everything including rebuilding the transmission, a year and a half later I tracked it down to the stick shift knob, there was just enough room between the threads of the shifter and the insert in the knob that it would vibrate at speed and sound like a ringing, A couple of turns of plumbers teflon tape fixed it. I spent a lot of money and lost a lot of hair figuring that one out, hope it works for you.

It looks pretty clean, as long as there is minimal rust everything else is available and doable. I especially like the back drop on the first dozen pictures, looks just like the place Captain Kirk would fight the aliens every week.

There's lots of ways you can tackle it but if your interior has been removed then that's as good as any place to start. Remove all the sound deadening tar that originally came on the car, it was installed over bare metal and sometimes you'll find big patches of rust under it. Clean all the interior surfaces with wax&grease remover, scuff it up well with 80 grit and clean it again before priming, Por15 can work well if you follow the instruction exactly but for my money you can't do better than 2 part epoxy primmer. By the way, that's a good choice on colour and wheels

I think he was referring to backing plate on the brake pads and not the discs.

Got to do your own brake work, so many thieves.

Absolutely!

Peter, Welcome to the forum, many Z's over the years have been modified and RB engines are one of the popular choices. If you haven't already have a look at http://forums.hybridz.org/ It's a site dedicated to modified Z's, they also have a classifieds section, you may find a car that already has some of the mods you want and the price will be a lot less than doing it from scratch. It's a big project you've chosen and it is very easy to buried under the logistics and the expense. I don't mean to dissuade you but it's good to go in with your eyes open. The Hybridz site is great for the the archives but you will probably get more responses and feedback here on Classiczcar, happy hunting.

Come on, all those little burns on your arms and chest are badges of honour . Don't buy it from Harbour Freight, at least get an entry level Lincoln Mig, Craigslist is a good place to start. Once you get one you'll be surprised how often you use it.

Well replacing those with new rails would be the best way to go but you would have to remove the carpets and the tar sound deadening, under coating and protect those fuel lines with some thin sheet metal while you are drilling out the spot welds, grinding and welding, big job. You could also cut along the edges of the bottoms of the rails as best you can, it's pretty bad but when the bottom is off you could re shape the sides of the rails, grind it flat and weld a strap of sheet metal onto the bottom to seal it up again. That would save you removing the carpets, sound deadening and all the spot weld drilling. The first way is the proper way, the second is patching but if done well would look good, save some time and effort and would be just as strong.

There is a bit of stretch at first but there is also 3 places where you can adjust the cable to tighten up the slack.

I remember having to cut and re weld the linkage torsion shaft so I could use the rest of the stock linkage when I had triple SK's, it worked okay but was still kind of clunky. Eventually I went with a Lokar cable set up and that worked very smoothly.

That is interesting, how long ago did you purchase them? For years all you ever heard was complaints about the poor fit of Precision door seals but lately, the last 2yrs or so, there has been more reports like yours, that they just fine with no slamming needed. It sounds to me like Precision may have changed the design of their doors seals recently due to all the complaints, it would be nice to nail down some date when the design change happened (if at all). As good and cheap as the Kia seals are they are not much good for guys who really want an original car.

Hah, I remember those days, Made Japan was a not good. I know China can make good quality when given a proper price point, I own a set of micrometers and a .000ths" dial gauge that are Chinese made and they are the finest measuring tools I own, beautiful quality, bought them about 25 yrs ago now. China's poor quality is the symptom, the problem is the West's insaitable hunger for more and more consumable stuff.

It might just be a third point of contact so the rack doesn't slop around in the rack tube, it is probably nylon and probably was longer when new and slow wore down over the miles, just a thought.

Isn't it more the case that NA companies that have their products manufactured in China don't want to pay for a quality product? China is capable of producing a piece of crap that looks the part at a very low price and that is why NA companies have their stuff produced there. I think Chinese manufactures are given a rock bottom price point and specs to work to from by companies like AC Delco, Motorcraft, Delta, Stanley even Milwaukee because those companies simply want higher profits and more repeat sales. As backward as China can be towards its own people I don't believe they are the real villains here, I would put that squarely on the shoulders of greedy NA companies and stingy NA consumers. Walmart prices rule.

Put $6000 cash in one pocket and another $2000 in the other, then feel him out.

Now that's what we're talking about! A solid clean shell like that is getting hard to find and you will never regret buying a rust free body.

@Strat067 You might think about replacing the rear wheel studs with longer studs now that the brake rotors taking up a good portion of the threads. You might get away with it if you are just doing cars shows and highway, but if you're going to start pushing it at the track it's good to have a few more threads holding the wheels on.