grannyknot

I've had good success with a big syringe and appropriate sized tube and injecting fluid up from the bleed screw to the master taking with it all the air bubbles.

That last pic of your engine bay in post #328 is my new wallpaper Perfect!

Sounds like you have a solid plan except the fluxcore, I'll just repeat what Mark and Charles said, fluxcore is garbage as are those entry level welders, you will grow to hate it. At a minimum go with a gas Mig Lincoln, lots of them on craigslist and if you find you are not using it after the car is finished you will get every penny back on craigslist. Once you start digging out the filler you are probably going to find a lot more welding work then you see at the moment. Invest in a good quality long board sander, this site is fantastic and has a number of professional body/paint guys that are willing to point you in the right direction, http://www.autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=f044bf1f351a02abe241234902095df9 A good paint job is all about good prep work which takes a lot of time, if you take a properly prepped car into Maaco I think you end up with a very decent paint job. Any professional paint man (yes even a Maaco paint man) can see in an instant when good prep work has been done, that will get his respect and his A game. Take lots of photos and post them, there are quite few good bodymen on this forum, unlike SoCal some of us have a looong winter in front of us. GL

If you just plan on using it as a weekend car for personal use then take the sheriff's and the appraiser's advice. If you plan on fixing it up and selling it then at a minimum you need to tell the buyer about the firewall VIN in case they run into problems in the future. If you or a future owner ever want to take the car to a concourse level that's when the problems happen, Banzai Motorworks http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ can make you up new tags but you will have to provide proof of ownership, but don't be surprised if he just says "No thanks" Nobody wants to have their name attached to a car that has been laundered.

Sad? I think that's kinda funny, but then I don't cheat.

Don't you need to be in office to be impeached?

There is a site that is dedicated to engine swaps, he has thousands of write ups about the projects, some are brilliant, some will make you winch. He just did a write up on my car, https://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=18991 Thanks to my good buddy @Careless I picked up an orphan that needed a home... it was also free, BMW 4.0L V8 Haven't a clue what I'm going to do with it but the price was right.

As long as you don't have the original black plastic tool covers installed behind the seats you should be okay, but you may have to relocate the mounting bolts for the cargo straps otherwise you won't be able to lift the carpet flaps.

Too nice to drive!

He is looking for a very specific buyer, I think he would get a lot more if he just rebuilt the L24 and sold that Lexus stuff seperately.

No, but this would and keep with the Nordic theme going, https://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=18648

@rturbo 930, no pain no gain

Yeah, right. Everything that could suck away my spare time happened since my last post, but she's done, on the road again! Took it for a spin today and everything feels good, I guess I'll have to observe some kind of a break in period. I got such a smoking deal on this new toy I couldn't pass it up, not sure what I'm going to do with it just yet, but I'm sure it will end up in a Z at some point. This is an S54 M engine 2001 - 2006, the last of the big straight sixes from bmw before they started slapping turbos on everything. 3.2L, cast iron block, aluminum head, DOHC, 24 valve, variable valve timing, 10.5:1 compression, 8000 rpm red line, without the cats 343hp without any tweaks. Best of all it is 3.5" shorter than the S38 engine and has a rear mounted sump so installation would be a breeze compared to the S38. It came with a 6 speed manual trans, engine wiring harness and ECU. Something to play with this winter

How long did it take you to get all the tar off your hands, arms and face ? I tried that method and got about halfway before I threw in the towel, what a mess. Kudos to you for sticking to it, I ended up doing the rest of the car with an old wood chisel and a hammer.

Joe, your plating looks terrific, care to reveal your method, procedures or secrets?

If there is air trapped somewhere the best way I have found to purge it is start the engine cold and jack up the front end of the car with the rad cap off, make sure your interior heater valve is wide open. Usually burbs just after the T stat opens.

Just sit on for a couple of years then you can ask $30k

NICE, I need some bear cubs to scare away or eat all the frigin racoons around my place.

Exactly, I was thinking if the mechanic applied heat there may not be any seal in there anymore, just carbon.

@David F How about you start your own thread on the electrical problem you need help with? Then people can choose to help or ignore you without cluttering up the OPs thread.

Man I would have thrown those in the junk pile and bought a better set but you did a great job of rescuing them. It's a pleasure to watch.

You could reinstall the other piston with seal and hold it in with a C clamp, plug one of the holes and install a grease fitting/zerk and pump it full of grease until it pops. As long as you burp it for air the stuck piston shouldn't explode out the way it does with compressed air.

Got the engine buttoned up and back where it belongs, 3-4 days away.

Page 8, post #191

Your post count was at 19999 this morning. Oh, just saw your post above.