grannyknot

Thank you Gents, that looks like the ticket so I just ordered it. This is the same company I ordered my gas lifts for the hood and they work perfectly. I'll do a write up on when they arrive. @Mike, looks like your odometer is about to roll over!

Has anyone found a modern or commonly available hydraulic strut for the rear hatch? I need to open and close mine 3-4 times before it will pump up enough to stay up. Thanks, Chris

Amen brother. Installed the cams and timing set today, just have to get the flywheel, clutch and transmission on and I can start dropping it back in the car, with any luck I can get it on the road before they start laying down salt.

Just remember that if your car comes to a VERY sudden stop the canister will become a fast moving projectile heading toward you and your passenger, a steel bracket and straps are a good idea.

No I don't, it's not mine but it doesn't look like it would be too hard to figure out. Get out your long board sander, that gentle compound roof curve is going to test your skills. This seems like a very good alternative to pulling the whole roof off and replacing it.

Got all of the threads chased and a new coat of paint on the block, a lot of reassembly done today, will start on the cams tomorrow. This is the exhaust EVO cam gear from the E30 M3, almost identical to the stock exhaust cam gear on my engine but it retards the opening and closing of the valves which is suppose to gain me another 22lbs of torque at 3000 rpm, I have been meaning to install one of these for years. Here is the offending, evil oil pump shim firmly bent into position.

I agree, seems like the safest way, maybe some very light grinding on top of each hole in case there are any ridges. So how about the inside, do you think the headliner foam is soft enough to accommodate the patch panel without leaving a rectangular bump? How about some sort of hot wire foam cutter? you would only need to shave a 1/16"

The previous owner was thinking, 'preventive maintenance'.

That's a Hybridz kinda question, http://forums.hybridz.org/

Mark, did you guys do this ? http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/alberta-saskatchewan-fires-national-wrap-1.4359754

I have the engine back!!! So a good used crankshaft (10,000miles) new bushings for the conrods and main bearings and new oil control rings. The 3 front oily cylinders were because of the oil control rings, they were buggered up. I'll post up some pics soon but I just got it back today.

Stitching will be the nicest looking I guess but a soldering iron works well too, melts any loose threads.

As long as you have not loosened the fenders or cowl then you 'll be okay, you don't have to pull the hinges unless you are cleaning and painting them, really you just need to back off the screws until you can shift things. A tiny bit snug is good so you can do a shift and it will stay there.

I agree completely. In the case of the 240z that I own, the ODO that came with car read 37,000 miles, it wasn`t installed in the car but came in a cardboard box with all the other stuff. So I don`t know if that is 37,000, 137,000 or 237,000 miles, actually I don`t even know if it came from the same car I bought, I really have no proof. Since I was doing an engine swap the original speedo/ODO couldn't be used so I replaced it with a new unit from Speedhut so I started from 0000 again. But on my transfer of ownership papers it says the car has 37,000 miles even though there is absolutely nothing left on the car that has that mileage. I keep log books for my cars and bikes that documents when and what is done to them so I can keep track of maintenance, major changes and so the next owner has some reference.

I have had problems with that same corner of the hood myself, it was the torsion spring rods that were pushing it up. I had to notch the adjustment holes on the hinge a bit to get the extra room then while pushing the hood down in that area tighten the bolts. You may want to remove each bolt one at a time and make sure it is not just over layered paint that is keeping things from shifting.

Hmmmm, I`m open to bribes Exactly, after a certain point it gets silly. As long as you document what was done to the ODO and why, then you are showing the next buyer that you are not trying to pull a scam. If I buy a six year old car then I certainly want to know the ODO hasn`t been tampered with but a 40 yr old classic driver is completely different. I`ll probably rebuild the engine and replace or rebuild all moving or wearable parts so by the time it is restored the ODO is the only thing left on the car with the original miles on it. Besides, odometer tampering isn`t even universally penalized, some jurisdictions have no laws at all about it.

Where I live that is called a felony even if you do it for a good reason

The hinge is on its way, will take about a week to get to you.

Electric radiator fan, electric power steering, proper relays for Low/High beams, signals/instrument lights, aftermarket stereo system, MegaSquirt.

I really thought there would be more damage to the top of the pistons. The tensioner is definitely the key here, like you said the spring was misaligned or pinched, the driver over reved it, the spring popped allowing lots of slop, the intake smacked the piston, the driver may have heard or felt something and backed off but the damage was already done. Tough engines. Ping ping ping Ricochet Rabbit

CASH ONLY! I'll just pop down to my local branch and cram $35,000 in my pocket, they can't be serious?

PM sent.

Pics! Can't wait to see the tops of the pistons.

I have one, it's from a car that had 130,000 miles on it so it has a bit of play in the hinge pin but it's yours for the cost of shipping.

DAMN that's fine looking car!