grannyknot

You will have to change all 16 of your wheel studs for a longer version so that means checking the torque on the nuts a couple of times in the first 20 miles or so until they settle in, BTDT.

It's almost easier to pull the whole dash than it is to climb in upside down with your face crammed into the passenger foot well, miserable job. Did you also change the heater valve while you were in there?

Like Jim says, put a new blade in your utility knife and first carefully cut the SS trim out, it is sooo easy to bend, then cut the glass out. I say, paint it any colour your heart desires, your car, your joy. How about some photos of your new toy?

Unlike modern cars where you are completely isolated from the road, Z cars are pretty simple and visceral, there is not much between you and the road. Usually the complaint about full poly all around is the ride is jarring and loud, that's usually from boney butt old farts like myself, it doesn't seem to bother young guys as much. I have poly on the steering rack, sway bars and mustache bar, everything else is stock rubber, the ride is firm but comfortable. But search the archives on this subject, there are a few threads with lots of opinions, poly does have its uses.

And 5 yrs later I can answer my own question and agree with the rest of the guys, I have the technoversion RT mount with poly snubber on top (touching) and a stock diff mount on the bottom, No extra vibrations, No clunk, a very good combination.

Doesn't look too bad at all, the rust in the front fenders and door started from inside, to properly fix it you'll need to remove the fenders to find out how far it spreads, the door you may be able to remove the panel and access it that way. Just a word of warning on the bushings, lots of guys have replaced with poly and regretted it, new stock rubber bushing are pretty firm and will make the car feel much better than it does now. For your oil leak scrub your engine clean, the whole thing then examine it after each drive, you may get away with just tightening the valve cover. Have a look under the seats where it attaches to the body, there may be some small black spacers on the bolts that you can remove to lower the seat. I'm not sure if the 280s used them or not. You do have an R200 diff, whether it has the right the gear ratio for the transmission is something you might want to look into. Was the tranny swapped at the same time as the engine? Hopefully they swapped not just the engine but the tranny and diff at the same time from the same donor car.

The only small drawback that I can see is the little bit of added height that the isolators will add , those brown ones in your pic would work well. Also, although shock manufactures say adding oil between the shock and the strut tube (less than an oz.) isn't necessary it does do a couple of jobs. It helps transfer heat from the shock to the strut tube and keeps the corrosion inside the strut tube to a minimum, the next guy to change out those shocks 20 yrs from now will thank you. Same goes for the spindle pins, a little anti seize will ensure you good karma in the afterlife.

Could be wrong but I think there is only one on the passenger side to protect the wiring harness and gas filler hose. You're right though, one on the drivers side would be useful to keep mud from being thrown back into the back corner. I made one up out of sheet metal that looks mirror opposite of the P/S and just zip screwed it the D/S.

I think there must be some kind of thin sealant, mine looked the same as yours and you really don't want moisture getting in there. Did you manage to save your paper gaskets?

Now I see, I couldn't remember where the PVC opening was, here is a couple of balance tubes I did a few years ago, after all the grinding and sanding I couldn't bear the thought of polishing them too, kudos to you for going all the way.

So what engine was swapped in? That's not a bad price if all the bugs were worked out and it's reliable now.

Try these guys http://vintageconnections.com/

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-engine-parts/markham-york-region/datsun-240z-260z-280z-full-engine-gasket-set/1283163210?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true in the text the price is $90

How about winding the wire tightly around the threads leaving the face/top free and clear?

Nissan might have a good case for design infringement, the resemblance to the Millenium Falcon is remarkable. Can you imagine what a piece of that pie would be worth?

Nice and clean, what are you going to do with the PCV now?

yuck yuck yuck

Jim, that is exactly what I had to do with the /70 Z I had before I sold it, stripped all the goodies off and kept them for the next car. Those are some very nice mods, shouldn't be hard to find a buyers for them.

Hey Duff, show us the vapor blaster, I have seen a valve cover that was vapor blasted and it looked amazing.

Try doing hot a valve adjustment see if that helps with the noise then do a hot compression test, dry first then wet, that will give you a much better idea where the problem lies. The smoke coming from the valve cover breather would be the blowby from #4 either pass the rings or maybe up the valve guides. Take lots of pics when you tear it down and post them here, it will be a long winter

Won't the welding burn the plastic of the coating?

A cold engine compression check is not going to give you accurate numbers, a hot compression test will still show a problem with #4 but the other cylinders could be very different. Regardless it looks like your engine is in need of a rebuild but people have driven engines in worst condition for many more miles. But driving an engine that doesn't have balanced compression is a good way to wear it out much faster. Did the cam oiler break off or just crack?

Are you rocking a bare metal Z? Very brave.

Thank you, but not from my brain, I only steal ideas

Looks great, some where in your box of treasure there should be 4 washers that look like these pics, they go on the far inside and outside of the T/C rods, not sure where those large thin flat washers that you have on there go.