grannyknot

Good to hear, always nice to find the easy fix. Stahl headers are getting hard to find.

I decided not to make the LCA adjustable for camber but the crossmember instead, there isn't a lot of room to slot on the XM so had to flatten the existing metal and add extra support. Changing camber is done by loosening the LCA pivot bolt nut and adjusting. This is the stock positionLots of camber, not sure what this new position will work out to in degrees but I'm sure it will be plenty.

Beautiful, great colour, you work fast.

Have you done this? I would love to see that technique, I only found it got stickier and harder to remove with heat.

That was my first plan but with a turnbuckle you have 3 moving parts and 2 jamb nuts, this way there is 2 moving parts and 1 jamb nut. Just thought that less complicated = less chance of failure. I guess these rods are forged, the metal is pretty grainy, could also just be my lousy technique

Sorry, that 2nd picture is confusing because I hadn't threaded that side yet, the curved end side has 2 in" of threads, the bushing end has 5/8" of threads, is screwed into the coupling nut then welded. The curved side is male, the bushing side female.

While I'm waiting on the engine I have started a little project to modify the stock lower control arms and the T/C rods to allow me to adjust camber and caster but with out loosing the stock rubber bushings that dampen out so much road noise and vibration. I got the T/C rods finished today, the dia. of the T/C rods are about 10/1000ths" too big for a 5/8"x 18 die so had to skim a bit off first on the lathe. The rods look true but they are not, had to fiddle with them in the chuck to minimize the wobble, probably could have done it with a double cut file. In their fully closed position now they are the stock length and there is about an 1.25" of usable adjustment, should be plenty.

Modifiers remorse?

My 70 Z never had a gap either but the 72 does, I can push the panel from inside the car and close the gap up easily so maybe it is just the sun.

I did the rock test on all the valves, almost all of them felt new with virtually no wiggle, 2 exhaust valves had a weeny bit more wiggle than the rest, one was on cylinder #3 the other was on #5. Pointing to the rings at the moment.

No word yet from the engine builder on when he thinks he'll be finished, he is going to go with a good used crank instead of repairing the original. All of the connecting rods are still good and usable. I finished rebuilding the head, everything is clean and flat, fresh valve seals and lapped the valve seats while I was at it, ready to go.

I found it, this is what I ended up with, @7tooZ I like your rodent security on the fresh air vent.

I have some better pics but can't locate them at the moment, the relays were mounted in a line right where the old external voltage regulator was,

Untouched, close to pristine and cheap, shouldn't be too hard to find a buyer.

Might not be too hard to rig up a dedicated fuel injector mounted near the end of the exhaust pipe with an electric open/close switch and a simple piezo ignitor down stream. Oh look what I found on the shelf, this could be a fun little project.

Where do I sign up for the Canadian military, I had no idea they paid so well.

I could slot the stock mounting holes but then I would also have to modify or rebuild my strut tower braces, not sure I want to do that just yet. As much as I would like a bit more camber and I'll get it one way or another, more caster is what the car needs the most. I was going to order TTT's T/C rods, but as you say I'll lose all of the vibration dampening. Maybe I should look at adding a welded in turn buckle to the stock T/C rods.

The inner cup does float completely but there is also an air gap that was molded into the the assembly to allow for movement, I had never noticed it before until I started destroying it. It is a very well engineered piece, also the rubber lip that is used to hold the inner cup in also wraps snuggly around the the horizontal bearing and limits water and grit from getting in. I did contact Steve at 240z Rubberparts.com and he very kindly splashed the cold water of reality on me, here's what he had to say, Chris, you will need a urethane rubber with a high Tensile Strength and a shore hardness between 70-90A. 90A being the hardest and most ridged. you will need to degas the rubber in a vacuum chamber before pouring into the cup. Then it will have to put into a pressure chamber to cure. Then cured in a oven for 8-10 hrs. If you dont degas and cure in pressure chambers, then you will get tiny bubbles and it will be very weak. The rubber would also need something to bite into( iE a void or grooves), so it will not come out. If you just pour it into a metal cup it will come out freely. I do not make any type of parts, if they fail they could cause any problems. This seems to be a trial and error type of project. Steve Owner www.240zrubberparts.com www.Datsun240zrubber.com Well, I'm not prepared to go that far but just as I was about to plow ahead anyway I noticed this, the red pencil is pointing at the upper spring cap, in it's new position it will hit the inner wall of the shock tower sheet metal. So that has stopped me in my tracks for the moment, if I can't find a way to sort that out then I will have to leave the upper mount alone and get the camber from the lower control arm. Now although there are lots of different aftermarket LCA's to choose from all of them have also done away with the vibration control bushings. Got to think about this a bit. There has to be away to have the comfort of a stock setup but the performance of an aftermarket setup.

What a score, lots to work with, congrats!

Excellent idea, will do. Burn baby burn, So I think I would be looking at a repositioning the inner cup so it looked something like this,

It looks pretty solid, in southern Ontario that would go for $8-9,000 but in your area there seems to be a lot of selection of older Z's. You get as much as you can for it because no matter what, you are going to kick yourself for selling it Good Luck

Man, I got t move back to the west coast where all those plentiful inexpensive Z's live, I'd buy them by the bunch.

Jim, this is TTT's, you can see how little they have moved the center hole off of center and that allows 1.5 degrees of camber. What kind of compound would you use to take the place of the rubber?

There are a few different aftermarket upper strut mounts available that allow you to change camber but all of the ones I have seen remove the vibration insulator of the stock unit and allow the road vibration to come up straight into the body of the car. So, what if I burned out the rubber of the stock insulator and reposition the inner cup that holds the bearing and top of the shock so I would get 1.5 degrees of negative camber then filled the cavity where the rubber was with something that would do the job? The liquid urethane that is used to secure modern windshields is the first thing that comes to mind but I'm sure there are a few things that could work. I would have to calculate the amount of offset that would result in the camber I want and some way to hold the inner cups in that position while the compound cures, any other problems that anyone can see that I might run into?

I remember something about those mounts being for a modified engine putting out more power, is that right?