grannyknot

I think Winnipeg would be the geographical halfway point, but who would want to be there in the summer. Of course we could meet at the centre of the universe, Toronto (only a Canadian will understand that one)

Mark, I think we should debut our cars together at the same show since we seem to be matching each other.

Haven't posted much lately as I have a deadline to meet, my painter Jody says I have to get the car up to him by this coming weekend or he will have to bring in a 4 month mustang job so I'm pushing a bit. Washed the car down with wax & grease remover before sanding then thought I would also try my favorite all around cleaner Methyl Hydrate, as you can see they both target very different types of contamination. This is W&G remover, the area was cleaned with a fresh cloth a 2nd and 3rd time until the W&G remover cloth came away clean.Then with Methyl hydrate, Then the car was sanded down with 80 grit and washed again with W&G remover. The temps dropped just before I was ready to start spraying the primer so had to go pick up an 80,000 btu heater to warm up the cold end of the shop, only a $100 on sale so not too bad, and this sucker pumps out the heat, shut down all the heaters before spraying. So, 2 coats of direct to metal epoxy primer then let it cure for about an hour and started the seam sealing. Now I know this looks like one of those funky German art cars from the 80's but it couldn't be helped. Tomorrow I'll finish the seam sealing on the interior then get the 2 coats of single stage urethane paint on the bottom and interior. Jody is going to do the rest of the car in base/clear but I wanted the bottom and interior done before it leaves my shop.

Sweet!

I believe that bolt on hood vent is either one of the original aftermarket or maybe Nissan issued options, can't quite remember the details on it but I have seen them go for a good penny. Agreed, it's not a great look with those louvers but when you need room for a larger engine transplant they are a godsend.

This one wasn't even that rusted, did the wd40 and a torch 6-7 times but only had a pipe wrench for removal. Maybe hacksaw the top of the gland nut off, remove the shock then with a dremel type tool grind or cut the bulk of the the threaded band until it loses its strength then peel it inward. Just thinking out loud. Good luck

Gold is a tough colour to work with, it reminds us of all that chessy trim that was so popular in the 80s, but just a shade darker is the bronze that has been used on many race cars and to my eye, looks great.

Doesn't look like there is much to salvage, hope he is okay.

Looks great, does Rebello add a plaque, stamp or mark his rebuilt engines in any way?

The Timesert kit came in, I think it will do the trick if not I'll re make it in steel. Drilled and counter bored, re threaded, cleaned and ready for the inserts, Little dap of Loctite on the outside threads, I ordered the 16mm long inserts so I could use the full thickness of the flange.

Why don't you just build a second car, it's all there Looks like a real treasure trove.

Congrats and welcome, looks like a solid car, the Z is a very rewarding car to work on you'll enjoy it. When I saw that red dirt on the engine I had to go back and see where you live, I thought that looked like Texas dirt.

They both look good, my last Z had that spoiler and I loved it but the Z I'm working right now I am going to try the clean look. Tough choice.

Actually don't you need some practice with that skill John? I can provide an excellent learning environment.

Finally finished the welding today So glad, feels like I have been welding all winter. P/S rail was pretty banged up so had to do some surgery to get it to fit inside the Baddog rail, I'm sure after I look at it for a while I will pull the welder back out and start filling in and fine tunning but for now have to clean the shop and get ready for primer prep.

Well because of the previous repairs to the rear fenders I couldn't use a roller either, the last guy butted the patches up against the lip of the fender so it was too thick to roll. I took the cut off saw and sliced multiple petals a 1/4" in on the lip then with a piece of wood on the outside of the fender lip to protect it squeezed the petals up with a pair of pliers. Then tacked them in position, after everything is primed I'll fill with seam sealer until it is all smooth.

Maybe he was "styling", Bondo allows you to be your own designer. Mark, now is the time to roll those fender lips if you think you might end up with larger tires.

The headers came back from High Tech Coating today, they use the same ceramic coating that Jet Hot does. Now I have to figure out a way to install them without banging, scraping or scuffing them,

You made that Tabco panel work! I was looking at mine thinking that it is completely the wrong shape or maybe it was for a different car. I'll have to have another look at mine.

Chuck nailed it, I would just add that although the floor pan repair job is serviceable, Nissan or Zedd Findings repair panels should have been used. The workmanship is not up to the standard that the rest of the car shows, you can still see the self tapping zip screws in place that were used to hold the front seat support to the pan.

Thanks Mark, we might end up finishing about the same time. Battery box is in, haven't completely finished the main seam on the floor pan but couldn't resist moving a head on the stock floor pan rail and the Baddog rails,

These guys carry some proper connectors, http://vintageconnections.com/ Also, vinegar is your friend, if you have any connectors that are corroded clean any grease off them with carb or brake cleaner spray then submerge the whole connector in vinegar for a few hours, works beautifully. Make sure the battery is disconnected when you it.

Got the gas tank filler panel tacked in, what a pain, no room to move, and started in on the floor pans, they are in fairly good shape so I will be able to keep the replacement panel to just the flat piece .

Chuck, I like your toys, as nice as they all are I think I would be walking over to the 510 wagon first though. Kind of the underdog in that group.

Thanks Chas, ideas, who knows where they come from, some are mine some are stolen. Yes can't put a brace over the engine so I thought I would try to stabilize things a different way. But I have just found out a few days ago that I don't have to have the stock air box now that I'm using a stand alone FI management system, the air box was the reason I couldn't have the brace bar in the first place, oh man.So much for my ideas. I may end up with something like this, in which case I would have plenty of room for a cross brace. The car is a joy to work on now, I'm dipping every project from now on.