grannyknot

Got the other side finished and the rest of the stitch welding done and a few other patches, Now this the job I have been putting off cause I'm not sure if I'm up to the task, compound angles, multiple layers and not much room to work without removing the quarter panel and I really don't want to do that. Oh, and those patches on the inside lip of the wheel well, that's not my work. I'm way down that rabbit hole now, got most of the garbage out of the way before I called it a day.

I agree, I have been logging in on to BaT everyday for years and with the exception of a few notable instances, I think BaT's buyer pool has been saturated with 240z's, case in point: http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-7/ A car listed by one of our own members, certainly not as well maintained as the OPs car but a series 1, honest, clean driver with only a few small rust issues failed to make reserve. Don`t get me wrong, I love BaT and their buyer base is getting wider all the time, I just don`t think they are the best place to sell Z`s at the moment, great place to buy them though.

Thanks, but when you have no social life there's nothing else to do but work on your projects Clean, rough, but clean. As soon as I get the body repairs done I have 3 cans of that green Eastwood internal frame sealer with the spray hose and I'm going to empty them into every sub frame and crevice I can find.

Whoa, is that cheesy or what? Looks like great tool.

So does the bit just cut through the first layer or both?

The early Z's had a distributor cap that was visibly smaller from the later ones, maybe there was a mix up.

Well this is a subject that I leave to guys that understand it but I'm pretty sure megasquirt has this algorithm that combines the TPS, air and coolant temp to form a map that allows multiple ITBs like mine to function properly. Matt didn't seem to have any problem tuning the engine back in the summer. I'm probably not mentioning some other key sensor that ties it all together. Jumped in today and started installing patches, bracing and working on the stitch welds.

Don't forget good old ebay, I sold my Z on ebay in the spring and I'm sure I got more for it there then I would have on BaT.

There is no lead left where it is usually applied, the join between the bottom of the A pillar, the top of the A pillar and the join from the roof to the back quarters, and there was that puddle at the bottom of the A pillar and that was not there before I sent it out. They spray or dip the car in a bath of water soluble rust inhibitor that they say is good for 2-3 weeks. I told the shop manager that I had at least a month of work to do on the car and he very kindly gave me 2 litres of the rust inhibitor concentrate so I can spray the whole thing down again a few times. I also have a gallon on Eastwood's After Blast that works really well. wipe it with solvent and maybe rough it up a bit with some 300 grit and it is ready for 2 part epoxy primer. A lot of paint shops these days are also wiping down with these new water based cleaners after the solvent, apparently the cloth comes away filthy even after the solvent. I'm hoping to try this stuff on the bottom of the car before I prime. Have you ever seen the hot rods that are still bare metal, apparently they are wiping down the metal every couple of weeks with GIBBS oil, I have a couple of test pieces that I coated with Gibbs when I got a can last month. They say you can keep the bare metal looking perfect indefinitely with regular applications. I'm thinking about it, I love the bare metal look as well. Also, I was talking to my megasquirt guru Matt and was mentioning that the air filter for the air box was causing a lot of headaches and he said, "Well, actually you don't really need that air box, it was there so the AFM or Maf could sense all the air coming into the engine, now that you are using TPS and air temp for the calculations you can show off the six velocity stacks and also have the induction sound" my head is spinning a bit with all the possibilities.

No, no more pine cones but I just realized, the car doesn't smell like mouse wizz anymore! Funny enough, the P/S rear bumper mount was very solid with no rust , just the outside panel metal is a mess, the D/S rear mount I had to remove and build a new one, I was wrong about those pics I took of the seam connecting the roof to the back quarter, that isn't lead solder, it's a steel weld, the lead is gone, it all melted off. In fact I found a puddle of it that had drained down from the two points on the A pillar where is was used, Original vintage Nissan lead solder in an ingot, ebay here I come. Here is a couple of good shots of the line worker's screw up and fix, and I got it up on the rotisserie just before quitting time,

That's awful purdy, very nice condition, I think you will get top dollar for that car. The only thing that really stands out to my eye that needs fixing is the front grill, it seems to be bent forward or tilted farther forward at the top so the angle is wrong. Probably won't take much to straighten it. The car doesn't have that look of being tarted up for sale, it looks like real care has been taken. Brown was never a great colour but it is also kind of rare because of it. Good luck

I should have taken the springs out of the door hinges, something in the process took the spring out of them, I have a couple of others that I can use. I got to peek into the tank room, the first tank is labeled Alkaline, the second tank Hot Caustic, the third was Pickling and that was as far as I could see before being shooed out. Looks like someone did some nice quarter panel work at some point in the past, funny how one side was brazed and the other was welded. There are a couple of spots of rust that didn't come out and they are both on seams, Here is the two joints of the roof into the rear quarters with the lead solder, If there is any places in particular that anyone would like pics of just let me know. I was hoping that I could get it up on the rotisserie tomorrow but I think I better fix this first,

Ooooooooh BABY! I am pumped. I'll take some better pics tomorrow.

Good read.

Brent, I like the new site. If someone else hasn`t suggested it yet you might have a look at the battery tray area for a replacement panel, that area is a difficult to repair. It could be a big seller.

The touched area looks very good, I wonder if a local powder coater might let you use his electrostatic generator and rent the spray booth for an hour?

Can't get a nuts on the inside of the flange, not enough room, the 4 diff bolts are just kissing the central core of the the adapter now. Derek over on Hybridz suggested http://www.timesert.com/ They really have put some thought into their design, would certainly have some advantages over helicoil. But not cheap. Also there is a an insert called a keensert that has an interesting locking system. This is an engineering site that has a walk through on the various types, interesting stuff. http://www.repairengineering.com/thread-repair.html

So it is an off road dragster then, looks like lots of fun.

I have dismantled 3 early Z's now and each one had the same configuration of screws, one round head Philips and two hex head Philips holding the wiper arms. It's a thing, factory for sure. It has been mentioned a few times but I don't know if anyone has come up with a reason for it, yup CSI

The sockets look like locking wheel nut sockets, looks like a good starting point, the car seems pretty solid. Is that an off road dragster in the back ground?

It will add to the bill but you have to find a way to get rid of those 2 center supports, you just know they are going to get hit at some point. No hoist, no spray booth, no powder coating oven, no pool table? Sell the Countach and you could afford all of that.

That's a great idea, less chance of movement starting in the first place. I'm just playing around, not sure if I will use any of them. The last Z I had was clean of badges except for the two Datsun badges on the front fenders and there always seemed to be guys getting real close to the car on the highway trying to figure out what kind of car it was, so I stuck a 240z badge on the rear spoiler and that seemed to help. Maybe I was imagining it. Make it real make it steel, that would be best and I might have to go that way if I can't get the aluminum one to work. Rape, chewing gum ?

Gottcha, I think you are right, NNOS instead of NOS

I have read many times about vibration noise because of poly bushings in the mustache bar but I have never noticed any. The car had fairly new rubber bushings on the M bar when I got it so I left them in but after a year burned them out and replaced with poly while I was trying to eliminate a clunk in the rear end.

Don't want to split hairs but aren't those just new stock, new old stock would have the Datsun name in the center.