grannyknot

It would be interesting to have a look at your cylinder walls.

Don't waste your money, unless your paper filter is clogged the K&N isn't going to do anything but let very fine sand into the cylinders.

#2 is plenty big enough, if I remember right the stock battery cable was #4 or maybe smaller.

http://vintageconnections.com/

This just came up on Hybridz, very nice work. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126641-skillard-stainless-steel-inner-scuff-plates/ Actually I just had a look at this guys site and he has some pretty sweet stuff for 240z 260z and 280z, http://skillard.com/t/s30-240z-260z-280z

Come on, you bought another white Z? Retirement investment vehicles?

There is an industrial powder coater up in Barrie with a conveyor chain production line, whatever colour and texture he's running the day I take all my stuff up to him, that's what colour it'll be. He usually runs black or grey and it's cheap.

I used the floor pans and floor rails from Zeddfindings then added Bad Dog rails over top of the that and the BD extension connectors behind those. Very stiff. BD rails for the 240z are about the same length as the original rails, maybe a little longer if I remember correctly and then you add the extension connector to bridge that unsupported area between the end of the floor rail and the rear sub frame. On my xmas wish list that I posted on the refrigerator are battery powered heated socks, hopefully Santa will come through.

Interested to see how you go about it, I stared at the firewall for a few days and all the braces I came up with were heavy, and complicated. I think most of the forward movement takes place right at the bottom edge of the pedal box, now that's an idea I didn't try, extending the bottom edge of the pedal box down to the stronger metal of the floor pan.

That red/black is going look really smart.

Agree with Patcon, also, now you have those tall weld beads to grind off on the marker plate, try not to be too aggressive with your grinding, like don't do it too quickly. Sometimes if you really go at the grinding hard you can create almost as much heat in the panel as when you were welding it. I have screwed up a perfectly good door by grinding the weld beads until they were glowing red and warped the metal around itthen the four letter words start flying. Try for cool grinding, thin sheet metal heats up very quickly. Bad Dog's rear connector pieces are pretty much a perfect fit, very little trimming, a great product.

Only the elves from Summit racing and Eastwood so far, still waiting on MSA. I have 14" of snow outside my garage door and even with the propane infrared heater on full I still need a jacket and gloves.

Congrats! Very cool, they look amazing sitting side by side.

Hard to measure, maybe 3/16 - 1/4" but the more you push the farther it goes. HA, I almost called this thread, "A solution in search of a problem". When the car is finished I don't want to be saying, "You know, I should have done that when it was all apart." but at the rate I'm going I'll soon have bottle openers welded in to both rear fenders in case anyone needs to open a beer and they are on the wrong side of the car. Not bored yet, this the funnest most challenging project I have done in years.`

$25,500.00 selling price.

This mod is more aimed at racers and auto x cars, firewall flex is something a lot of unibody cars suffer from and Z's aren't immune. The brake pedal never feeling like it has a solid bottom could be caused by a number of things and firewall flex is one of them, I'm hoping this will help. It's an interesting experiment to try, have someone sit in your car and slam on the brakes, you can see the firewall move, the M/C move forward, a lot of leverage with that pedal.

and M6 = 10mm wrench. Yes, this is the case on Z cars.

So the real question is who owns HLS30-161219? that is the car that Lt Rebecca McGraw is using in her scam.

This guy?

Well now you have to show us, what's that forum saying, "Pics or it didn't happen" The thread on the slave is metric, M10x1, the thread on the Tilton M/C is 3/8"x24 and the fitting on the left of that pic is the 3/8"x24 to M10x1 adapter but it extends the clutch line out another inch and then intereferes with the washer bottle. I was hoping to do it with one fitting, I guess I'll just have to shave more off of the washer bottle mount. Thanks

Just for fun I pulled out my very expensive Mcgyver type soda baster and basted both sides of that engine mount, Then with a Q-tip I coated the bottom two quadrants in each pic with GIBBS wonder oil, let it sink in for an hour or so and rubbed the excess off with a cloth. I don't know if is an original look or not but it's a good look I think, certainly easy to take care of, you just apply more.

The BaT car has different bumpers, wipers and a passenger side mirror and the paint is in much better shape but it might be the same car,

Now it could be because the needles on my scaler are still new and still have a sharp edges and that will round off with use.

Now how are you going to match up those AN fittings to the brass hose barbs or the steel fuel line?