grannyknot

You got me there buddy, I just don't give a hoot. Welcome to the forum by the way. So I have the exhaust system hanging now, everything is slip fit still in case something needs tweaking. Even though the resonators and muffler are called 'ultra quiet' I have a feeling this is going to be loud.

^ If I made the exhaust that pretty I would have to become one of those guys that bring mirrors to car shows. Added the next piece, I'm not going to leave the exhaust tips like this but I have always liked the double barrel shotgun look,

Amen and hallelujah!

I hope I look that good when I'm 80

Bench grinder for the welds then move to the other side and use the wire wheel to clean and smooth.

Yes I'll have to come up with something like that, there is lots of room in front of the rad for an airbox just no room for a 3"dia air tube to get past the rad unless I cut through the fender again I have started work on the exhaust system, I have never welded stainless steel before and man it's a bit of a pain, completely different animal then carbon steel. Hard as a chisel, heats up really fast, hangs on to that heat, burns through if you don't use the lightest touch but sure cleans up nice. I could not run a bead on this thin walled tubing without having blobs form inside and narrowing the passage so had to do a series of short tack welds with a couple of seconds between each one so I wouldn't break through. After some grinding,

Thank you Gents, great suggestions as always. I almost went with the soft SS line from BrakeQuip but really like that warm colour of the Cunifer from Fedhill, also ordered all the fittings from them as well. Eastwood has a sale on their K Tool Pro brake flaring setup, so ordered that. I'll be able to make brake lines for anyone! I went through all the brake and clutch lines this morning and found out that some PO had cut off the stock 3/16th x10mm fittings on the rear brake lines and replaced them with some weird fittings that worked with the flexible rubber brakes hoses he used at the time, after I figured that out I grabbed all 8 lines and pitched them in the snow. Done.

Needle scaler, great idea!

Porsches all sound like Volkswagen Beetles

Having the car stripped down to the shell I started looking at the hard lines and fittings, they are in sad shape, usable but just. Has anyone replaced all their hard lines and have any advice to offer? I'm thinking I'll make them myself from fresh tubing but not sure which bubble and flare kit to buy, if I should stick with zinc coated steel lines or go with SS. Thanks, Chris

Have you tried snugging up the oil pan bolts? Sometimes that's all it takes.

Nope. Raff, I think you have been working on purely original so long now you might be succumbing to Stockholm Syndrome Well I have finally finish installing the drive line, engine mounts, transmission mount, drive shaft and diff are all in and I think, are perfectly a lined. As best as I can measure it I think I'm within half a degree in both axis. So hopefully the drive line will be vibration free Also got the oil cooler plumbed in, the accelerator linkage installed and air filter sorta finished. As much as I hate K&N filters I bought one anyway, after spending lots of money and time trying build or adapt a paper filter airbox that just didn't work. The K&N filter will get me on the road until I can figure something else out.

Oh yeah, I remember that nightmare they put you through over that engine. I have had ZTherapy do two set of SU's for me now and they were both perfect, couldn't be happier. If you do go with Paltech can you post some pics when you get them back, I would love to see their work. Thanks

Are you also considering ZTherapy or just Paltech?

Great story, it looks like it's in good shape. I have never seen inside a 2+2 before, where are the +2 seats? Do they fold down?

Yup, it added about 15lbs, cost $145 total and is adjustable. This is djwarner's thread, not sure why my name is coming up.

I know the water shouldn't get in there in the first place but did Nissan include drain holes in the rockers? PO of my car did a bunch of bondo in mine and I can't tell. Thanks, Chris

If someone doesn't like what or how often you post then they don't have to click on it. I'm sure almost everyone here looks forward to your posts and the great work you are doing on your Z, I'm loving it. The stock shock tower has the 10ga plate that you modified and the 20ga sheet metal spot welded around the top that you peeled back, it looks great what you have done but are you concerned at all about the little bit of extra strength that the 20ga added that is missing now? Although you are right about welding in the ZCCJDM camber plates, you have to cut away most of the 10ga plate to install them and they end up being welded to just the 20ga sheet metal tower cover.

zKars, I ordered a roll that arrived last week, one thing I have noticed is that in a cold shop the film looses its stick and falls to the floor. As long as it is used in a warm room it works just fine. Is you r shop heated, have you used it yet in colder temps?

The Summit Racing elf came early this year, I love that little guy! The resonators will be welded together and sit under the drive shaft, all the pipes are pre-bent mandrel 3" T304 SS. I'm hoping this will be quiet enough but also be able breathe, I'll try make the exhaust tips look like the old twice pipes. Also finished the extensions on the shifter linkage. All the pretty parts of the shifter linkage are UUC stuff, very well made and engineered. CO, thanks, the adapter is aluminum.

I have been working on this adapter for a couple weeks now and just finished it today, it will mate the bmw CV joint to the input shaft of the Nissan R200 diff. Also, the drain tube pouring water down between the fender and the body is something I have been meaning to fix for a while, no more rusting fenders.

Throw them in the garbage and get yourself a set from a Kia Sportage at the wreckers, perfect fit, the same weatherstrip works well on the rear hatch as well.

That's probably a good call, pretty sure my measurements are correct but now is the time to make sure. It is a big engine and the M6 it came out of was a wide car, yeah I really didn't want to cut into the fender but could find a way around it. You know, you are the man for the job of making a shallow bowled patch panel to give the rad hose some room. I'll hammer away for weeks and will still end up with something barley passable, maybe you will take pity on me when I show you what I come up with Good info on those links, I'll make up a dedicated breather line. One of your links suggested that my Wally world battery might be better quality then I thought.

Just slide the seat forward , the battery cover comes off and battery lifts out. I will be getting an AGM when the car is finished and ready for the road but I needed something the right size that I could use for measurements and power while testing and trouble shooting. It's from walmart, I'll be lucky if I get two years out of it. ZH, do you think the loose fitting storage lid on top would provide enough air or maybe a dedicated vent out under the car?

Now I've done it! I'm going have to learn how to hammer and dollie to make a nice looking repair piece for the rad hose. Got the battery box almost finished, still need to put a drain in it and a couple of holes with rubber grommets for the Pos and Neg cables