grannyknot

ahem ahem, see post 6

Have a look at this,http://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-engine-parts/norfolk-county/datsun-su-carbs-and-intakes/1190214976?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true This is a buddy of mine, he's parting out a couple Z cars with good prices, not sure if he would ship but it is worth asking.

That is strange, I wrote about the smell of mouse p iss and it was changed to wizz

Sorry about the lack of dream girls, I did put the filtering on as you suggested and finally got a stable rpm display on the real time display and I could adjust it with the pots so that is a step in the right direction. I have JP1 and J1 jumped properly and R56 and R52 turned counter clockwise 7 turns, I advanced R56 and 52 but didn't notice any changes in the signal on the screen. Then took it all out to the engine test stand and cranked the engine but still no signal showing from the real crank sensor. Still going to get a new crank sensor just to see if it helps. CM I guess you are Blackbird on the Megasquirt forums? For anyone else who might be following this thread I have another thread on the MS forums with more detail and logs, http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=63449&p=481201#p481201

Thumbs up! More pics!

CM, well that certainly changed the pattern on the composite logger while simulating on the JimStim, I'll hook it up to the engine tomorrow when I get home and see if anything has changed there. Thank you

When I put my Pertronix in last spring I got the 2 black/white stripe wires mixed up, switched them around and the tach worked... up until 4000 rpm

Got into the rockers and the panel the gas tank filler hose goes through today, luckily I spotted one at a Z swapmeet last year and bought it cause I was sure I would never see one again. $50 was cheap compared to what I just paid Tabco for some very simple punch out pieces, 2 rockers, a right rear quarter and hatch deck panel.

I found the mother lode stink, the car has had no glass, doors, hatch or fabric in it for over 5 months but still reeks of mouse wizz, I discovered why today, So I cut 2 access holes in the tops of the fresh ducts so I can get a vacuum cleaner in there and have an escape for air and acid when the car gets dipped. Here I have cut out the crossmember attachment plates and the rotten fender above them. The plates are 12 ga and the inside fender skin is 20ga. Instead of trying to recreate the original crossmember plate I will probably make up 2 patches of 12ga, one on the wheel side and one on the engine bay side that will overlap and give some real strength for the shock tower. ``Don`t bother fixing that, just cover it up, he`ll never know``

ZH, your metal strap design does everything the R/T mount does but is simpler, easier to install and lighter, thinking of going into production?

Hey I got one of those, thanks for the offer but I will try to fab one up using this one as a template. Wheee, I wish Charlie Osborne or Baddog would produce a replacement for those plates, I guess there is just not enough call for them. I have a buddy who is trying to start a Blacksmith business, maybe I'll go see what he can come up with. Here is something I would like to address before the body work is done, I have never liked the idea water pouring down between panels as good drainage. I would like to come up with some way to keep that water in a hose until it drains out underneath the car or maybe redirect that hose by 90 degrees so it empties out through the firewall forward into the wheel well.

^ No we didn't get the key lock.

ooh, a plasma cutter, I'd love to get one those. Well that really is a 10min job then, yes I will take you up on your offer, thank you.

Charles, it would cause you a lot more work to get in there and cut yours out then it would be for me to make a new one, thanks I appreciate it but it's asking too much. Are you saying there are after market plates for the crossmember support?

There is one thing I have learned about MS in the past couple of months and that is ONLY read the manual for the particular variant of MS that you are working with. Manuals of other MS products might be the same on some subjects and will also be slightly different many subjects, enough of a difference to screw you up. At this point I'm going to buy a new crank sensor and go through all my wiring again. MS2 PCB v3.57, MS relay board, LC-2 Innovate O2 BMW M6/s38b35 w/6 ITBs Tunerstudio MS lite v3.0.03 MS2/Extra 3.4.3

John, you ain't seen nothing yet, I keep finding more and more. I hereby absolve Namerow of culpability for any and all rust found on the car I bought from him. I knew what I was buying and it's still in much better shape than the last Z bought. Charles, that's a good idea about the body panel adhesive, it is pretty tight in there. The chimney is crumbling but the bottom pan that supports it and would stay wet longer is very sound, surface rust only. Here is what I found behind the brazed on plates above the crossmember, not sure how I'm going to replace that at the moment. They are 12-14 ga plates but have a factory pressed indentation for the crossmember bolts. Maybe if I heat them up to cherry red and take a big ballpeen hammer to it.

The AC volt test was done at the end of about a 4 ft lead that goes into the ECU, the other end is the crank sensor which is a VR, magnetic sensor.

How would you go about doing that test? when cranking the engine and a voltmeter hooked up to the crank sensor I'm getting somewhere around .5 - 1.0 volts AC

Well I am in Megasquirt hell at the moment, nothing is working so I have put it all to one side and I have brought the Z into the garage to start test fitting for motor mounts and drive shaft angle. The good weather is wasting away while I learn how to use a laptop, enough. Back to some fun stuff. Bath time! I went to remove the crossmember and ran into these on both sides covering the bolts that holds it on. This is definitely from the school of, F--K the next guy, now it's his problem! Can't wait to find what's hiding behind door #1 I think this is refered to as the chimney, I've never had to repair one before, I'm open to any tips anyone has,

Thanks Phillip, I am using the stock bmw sensor wires and they are shielded.

Robertson, that's a Canadian screw.

A Datsun in the desert, looks great!

Try a hockey puck.

Captain, is your screwvenir a Philips or a Robertson?

^ so I just did him a favour by posting his sites?