grannyknot

All the Megasquirt stuff arrived and I have started setting it up, big learning curve! I installed the MAT, manifold air temp sensor right next to where the ICV idle control valve brings in air when the butterflys are closed. But just to the left of it is a 1" hose that connects to the valve cover and allows the top end of the engine to breathe, a lot of oil mist ends up in the air box and then gets sucked into the TBs or drains back to the oil pan but I'm sure that oil mist won't be much good for the MAT sensor so I have klunged up an oil seperator out of a dishwashing pot scrubber. The hose still breathes well but hopefully some of that oil mist will collect on the pot scrubber and drain back into the valve cover before getting to the airbox.

Dave, I would add to your list, -drain the nice clean diff oil and save it. -remove the 6 nuts holding the struts in at the top and with your jack ease them down so they are supporting their own weight, they may not want to move. -get your jack under the the diff supporting it them loosen the mustache bar nuts and drop the entire unit, diff, mustache bar, links and struts. Just try and balance the whole thing on the jack as it rides down, once the whole thing is on the floor it's much easier to examine and take apart then it is lying on your back.

People are asking about the rust because he is only showing a little bit here and there, I'll bet there is a LOT more. With all the fiberglass on the rockers and rear end is impossible to tell what is solid or not, also there is no frame on these cars regardless of what he says, it's all connected. Be careful when you go look at it, check the doglegs thoroughly. The engine is basically worthless for resale, you can't give away 2.4L engines and the 5 spd tranny is worth about $300 so no, the engine and tranny aren't worth what he is asking for the whole car. If you go see the car maybe take some pics of the areas that he isn't showing, we would love to see them, good luck. Oh, and welcome to the forum, lots of good info and people here. Chris

Looks great, all that hard work paid off and now you are into the fun stuff. I know she's pretty but you might consider covering up alot of that beautiful paint work with some old towels and blankets, a scrape or scratch now ...

Also, because the wheel has dropped so low it looks like the parking brake cable is holding it all up. The cable is fine, it`s the cover/sheath that breaks easily then needs replacing.

That's your son? I follow his posts on Ratsun, clever boy, guess he takes after the old man. FiveO injectors came in today, they are a great company to do business with, fast, helpful and the product is terrific.

Or NAPA, bought a bag of these today and with a bit of modification with a square file they work perfectly. I have 12 extras left over for the next 3 Zs

Great advice I'm sure, but if my car is on fire I'm going to put out or get burnt trying. I keep a good sized fire extinguisher behind the passenger seat attached to the shock tower for easy access. I'm going to have a look for that Flame out foam now that it is available to the public, looks like great stuff.

Thanks for posting this, pump with no jam, try and stop flow with thumb before ruling it out. Noted

Ooooo that's a gold mine of little goodies, I'll find something there that will work. Thank you

These are the two adjusters that allow the headlight to be aimed, the screw is still available but wondering if anyone has found a source for the white plastic anchor? Thanks, Chris

Sure, that would be fun, but my place is about 45 min.- 1hr drive north of the host hotel.

$1,000 ! Man, that's like finding a Piccaso at a garage sale.

They didn't have to Siamese the manifold runners but did Siamese both intake valves ports and both exhaust valve ports for each cylinder. The air horns extend into the air box and go as far as the long casting mark, you can see how they blended the long runner of the throttle body into the two intake valve ports. Exhaust headers on the other side of the head,

Looks like you found your stride, I'd be happy with those results.

CO here are a few pics of the fuel injection rail, I just realized the other day after talking about this that now that I'm changing the ECU that I can get rid of the low impedance fuel injectors and take advantage of the better selection of high impedance inj. So I have ordered matched set of 6 from FiveO, https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/30lb-0280156024-blue-devil-bosch The engine came with 24lb single hole nozzle injectors which are barely adequate for the stock HP, these new ones will be 30lb, 4 hole nozzles and the high impedance will be easier to run on MS. Oh and I finished the gas tank.

Or if you don't want to use heat to solder on a gas tank you could try an epoxy that is designed for gasoline exposure. http://www.bellautomotive.com/Gas-Tank-Repair-Epoxy-p/22-5-00915-8.htm

Matt, that grey Nisei Z 3rd one down is my dream car! Love that colour. If the re-sale price of your car is what you are thinking about then of course, go stock. But I painted my Z a very non-stock colour , loved looking at it everyday and got a very good price when I sold it earlier this summer, it didn't hurt my resale value at all. I say paint it the colour you love the most.

You can always solder them up and re drill them to the size you need, it's dead simple and when you find the jet size that works the best then you buy the proper jet, although many guys run soldered jets and never have a problem. You'll need a set of jet drills, they don't cost much but if you are near my place any time soon you're welcome to borrow mine. Chris

Ditto, we must have ordered from the same place.

Even with the billowing smoke, that is the tidiest wrecking yard I've ever seen, most of them look driveable.

This whole ///MZ project is one of those kinds of things

4" c/c, the engine is almost identical in length to an L6, but it's wider and heavier. If you could find one all you would have to do is weld up some bosses on the Nissan intake to drill for the injectors. If I have to dismantle again I''l take some pics for you.

So I just ordered all the MegaSquirt stuff, they said they have a week lead time at the moment and with shipping I have about 2 weeks to wait until I can back to the engine. Here is the list, MS2357-C MegaSquirt-II PCB v3.57 (SMT) Engine Management System w/ black case Jumper for VR input. MOD_2357IGN1 Modify Megasquirt-II V3.57 for single Bosch BIP373 ignition output on pin 36. Uses JS10 for spark A output pin. Spark output needs to be set to Going High JimStim-C JimStim v1.5 Assembled Unit 'JimStim' Stimulator with Wheel Simulator version 1.5 MSRelay-C MegaSquirt Relay and Power Board - Complete Assembled Unit MSRelayCable 4' MegaSquirt Relay Cable LG-WireBund 10 foot (3.0 meter) bundle of prelabled TXL automotive wire. IATwPiggy GM Open Element IAT sensor with 6' pigtail 38NPT-Bung_A 3/8' NPT Aluminum Bung, with galvanized steel plug. Perfect for welding onto intake/coolant plumbing for IAT/CLT sensors. TuneCable6 6' Ft DB9 Male / Female STRAIGHT THRU WB-O2BP Mild Steel 18x1.5 thread- chamfered both sides.

While your sealing up all the many places that exhaust leaks into the cab, don`t forget about these two, there is one on either side under the shock tower braces, they are the access holes for the mustache bar studs. They were never sealed up by Nissan but they do vent to outside air through the sub frame. I made up a circle from some rubber sheet and sealed it around the edges. You can also see in this pic where the shock tower brace disappears under the deck, there is seam sealer missing behind brace and a hole going down into the sub frame. Chris