grannyknot

Fedx dropped off my POR15 tank sealer kit yesterday and I got home early today so I thought I would do the degreaser and metal prep stages and leave the sealer for tomorrow but after a an hour with the paint stripping heat gun blasting in it I couldn't touch the steel it was so hot so I guess it was dry enough. Man, what a mess! If you end up doing this make sure you are wearing clothes you don't care about, it gets everywhere. After draining the the rest out of the tank there was so much left over that I coated the outside as well rather then just waste it.

This could be good.

Charles, that reminds me of a thread a couple of years back where one of the members here cut out one of the storage bin lids from the rear deck of a wrecked 240z and welded it in right above the fuel pump he installed in the gas tank. Only another Z guy would know it wasn't a stock access door, I'll see if I can find it. Thanks for the idea!

Started doing some fun stuff for a change, included this picture for the purists, just want them to know I take originality seriously.I forgot to take a pic of the baffle bowl that was welded inside for the fuel pump pick up to sit in so it doesn't suck air when the tank gets low. I have a POR15 gas tank sealer kit coming in the mail soon.

Anything is possible at this point, the speed sensor passes the resistance test as does the cable to the ECU, it only has 4000 miles on it since new and worked perfectly before I pulled the engine. In fact the engine/ ECU combo were were working perfectly when I carefully put everything away 1 year ago. I really don't know what else to do but start fresh. The ECU had been refurbished by Programa at some point in the 22 yrs before I bought the car and they will do it again for $500 USD, and if it still doesn't work then... not too many people know about these operating systems anymore which is not the case with MS. I'm not much of an electronics guy so this is one problem that I am simply going to throw money at and buy my way out of it. I'll pay a pro to build me a rock solid system and then I can learn to tweak it a bit. I know to you guys who understand this stuff in your DNA this seems like a cop out but I just don't have a gift for it.

The ECU controls the fuel pump relay from pin20 on the ECU to the #85 ground wire on the relay, not through power or signal. Yes I can run the fuel pumps off of a switched power source with it's own ground and I have done so but if the ECU isn't sending pulses to the injectors anyway, it's still no start. There is also no signal being sent to the idle control valve.

The speed sensor and reference sensor are identical sensors mounted on the trans bell, both were new 6 yrs ago, both check out with the resistance test as do the cables that connect them to the ECU. Since the speed sensor is the more important of the two I switched them around just to see if it changed anything, no go. The ECU is not releasing the control ground for the fuel pump/O2 sensor relay, it is also not sending the injector pulses which get their power from the main relay which is working properly.

I have only ever used Prestone Dot 5, it's purple, other Dot 5 brake fluid might be a different colour. It has never stained any of the M/C reservoirs but sure stained the the hell out of the white plastic pressure vessel on the vacuum pump I use to bleed brakes. Probably won't be a problem for you but thought I would mention it.

They are not being actuated and it's the ECU that has control. I can get most of the systems working if I power them separately by jumpering around the control wire, it's the ECU that doesn't want to play ball.

The version on this engine is the Motronic1.0 basic, and although it is very basic I just can't get it working. I tried and tested many things but I'm done with it now. Here is a thread on the process, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125547-trying-to-get-the-ecu-to-cooperate/ So instead of spending anymore time and money trying to get 30 yr old electronics to work I'm going to start fresh and in the end I should end up with a much better and more versatile management system that will allow me to tweak some extra power out of the engine, no more 'power chips'. There seems to be a large and vocal anti-MS group, but what I like about the system with only 2 days of internet cramming on the subject is the incredible support it comes with in the way of forums, lots of experience out there that doesn't mind helping a newbie. Very much like this forum.

yeah I'm getting pretty cross eyed at the moment, I have a few more tests to do and if they don't work I'll be throwing the whole damn bmw ECU in the garbage and go with a stand alone FI controller. At one point I played around with the idea of putting triple carbs on this engine but was told by a few knowledgeable guys that I would loose quite a bit of power. So I guess it's time that I grow up and learn how to deal with electronics.

I have used Dot 5 in all my bikes for 15 yrs, never had a problem and I can stop on a dime. I used Dot 5 in a stock braking set up on a 74 Triumph TR6, never felt the spongy pedal that you read about. Works fine for me. Just don't ever spill it on paint that you intend to sand down and paint again, it doesn't matter what you clean it with you will always get fish eyes in the new paint.

Condensation, as long as you don't take too many short drives, if the entire exhaust system gets up to temp so that moisture is driven out you'll be fine. It's short trips that rust out exhausts.

When you guys say 'Tokico's' are you talking Illuminas or the basic blue shock? I had Tokico Illuminas/Eibach combo on my last Z with a rather tall touring tire and new rubber bushings and it was pretty comfortable for the mostly highway and in town driving I do. I have heard that the Tokico blue shocks are harsher then the soft setting on the Illuminas.

Cliff the fit of the exhaust tip is perfect but aren't you concerned the heat may curl or crack the paint around it?

Jump on that!

I took it to Techno strip, a chemical dip company in Etobicoke south of me,http://technostrip.com/restoration.html they have these chemical vats 20ftx8ftx6ft. Mostly they do industrial stuff but they also do brisk business in auto restoration. They can put the whole vehicle in at one time, grease, rubber,seam sealer, paint and rust are gone. All you get back is clean metal with a water soluble rust inhibitor sprayed on. So far I've used them for the frame of a Triumph TR6 and this gas tank, both came back perfect. Once I get the Z torn down it's going to them for the big dip, I'll be taking lots of photos.

I wish I had taken some pics of the inside of this gas tank before I took it down for chemical stripping, it was nasty in there. Here are a few pics of the outside, you get the idea.and this is how it turned out, this is the same company that is going to dip the whole car for me. I poured some Eastwood's After Blast, phosphoric acid inside and out to keep the rust off.

Strange, I have one too in my 72 Z harness, the only male counterpart on the blower/heater doesn't look like it belongs to it. Maybe it's a left over from something on an earlier car or an earlier radio.

yeah you should as you will need a new gasket, the intake manifold and exhaust manifold share the same gasket. Besides, it gives you the opportunity to clean up an area of the engine that is almost impossible when everything is attached.

Well, it's not really an auction, more of a notification that he is selling parts. No one is going to buy a parts car for $49,000, maybe he gets more exposure by listing it as a whole car rather than individual parts? But yeah, he gets zero for effort.

I came across this tech article and it says it applies to 280Z and ZX, thought some of you might find this of use. http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm

But what is great about 'Topics last 24 hrs' is , NO Bender! I usually go to 'Unread Content' and sometimes it is nothing but Bender.

What you are showing in your post is the distribution block/safety switch, the proportioning valve is at the back of the car above the diff. next to the rear distribution block. The easiest way is to remove the stock proportioning valve entirely and install the new adjustable proportioning valve up front in the engine bay. Like this,http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades/wilwood-proportion-valve

Buy it right now, you won't regret it. Mechanical problems can be fixed.