grannyknot

Mike, one of these days you gotta do a photo essay of your whole car, everything I have seen so far is very detailed and well appointed. Zedyone, love the breathers all the way up the back, great idea.

But I've read many times over the years of guys having rubbing issues with 16" wheels, especially on the rear. Did you having any rubbing?

triple post

My quick and dirty compressed air pre-oiler before start up,temporary gas tank,The spaghetti monster, I know it looks unsafe but all wires are tied off and wrapped. I thought I would cut all wire to fit in this stage but I think I'm going to wait until it's all in the car.so the engine is turning over fine but had a hard time getting the main BMW relay to work, it seems there was an unknown to me burglar alarm wire that is the trigger wire #86 on the main relay that needed switched power. Main relay is working now but fuel relay is still being difficult, I have power on the #30 terminal, power on #86 but no power on #87. If I jumper between #86 and #87 the fuel pump works fine. So you say the relay is shot and get another, I've been through 4 now and it's the same thing each time. There is something I'm not seeing, I'm open to suggestions.here is the diagram of the bmw wires coming from the main connector, some I need and others I don't. I thought I didn't need the burglar alarm wire but was wrong now I'm thinking maybe number 3 Injection signal is needed to trigger the fuel relay. My brain is mush, get back at it tomorrow.

Got the water temp/oil pressure gauge to look a little better,

John, I think you were a watch maker in a past life, looks amazing, beats the hell out of the Sharpie method. Maybe a coat of Sharkhide clear coat over it?

Sharpie makes an oil base paint pen that comes in lots of colours, their silver one is a very good match for the fine trim on our radios and glove box doors and besides, Mr. K used to use them to sign things.

Made a little progress, got the dash rigged up but having a bugger of a time trying hook up the old M6 exhaust so I can use it for the test rig, it does not want to cooperate. The Speedhut gauges arrived, I love them. They let you customize the gauges from very old school to as glitzy as you like and you can dismantle the entire unit without having to fight glue and bizarre fasteners. I went for a look as close to the original gauges as I could, the 4.5" size tach and speedo fit perfectly inside the cannibalized original gauge housing, the water/oil gauge I will have to work on some more to get it to look right.

Oh I hear you on that, a few years back I did a run of triangulated shock tower brace bars, by the time they were all sold I calculated that I was working for $6 an hour. Anyone who builds a needed product for our cars is doing all of us a favor.

Site, funny you should mention a weedeater, I use weedeater nylon line instead of rope to do windows, it has a small diameter and smooth so it slides past the rubber very well.

Sean, the finish is stunning! Are these headers something you are going to continue making into the future or a one off batch? Thanks, Chris

That seems to be a standard price these days for a good plating job. A lot of the people these days are sealing up or painting the inside of the bumper black to ensure it it doesn't rust again. I know they cleaned the rust off and chromed the inside as well but it will not be as thick as the outer surface and is easy to forget about cleaning in there, just a thought. Chris

Someone grab him before he gets away!

Those sure look like ROTA Grids to me.

I have had good results with CLR in an iron block, 24hrs of soaking with full strength and then lots of flushing with a garden hose and a pressure washer, very clean afterwards. Not sure I would use CLR with a aluminum head, it might be alright, they are using milder chemicals these days than they use to. I like your idea of the pool pump. Chris

Sweaty, it's very nice work you are doing, your giving me some ideas, but I gotta say, inline fuses? Maybe its just me but I always think of inline fuses as a stop gap measure until I can address it properly. You'll never get a better chance to make it right than now. Maybe a small pony fuse panel near by on the upper kick wear the horn relay was. Love those reset beakers. Chris

The shop is empty now so it got a fresh coat of paint on the floor, starting to build the test stand. Once the new gauges arrive from Speedhut I'll mount the dash right behind engine so I can get the wiring laid out properly. After I get the engine running with all the systems working and ready to install I'll cut off all the uprights on the test stand and use the base as the dolly for the shell.

I think you are asking, how do you go about having a solid roof again with no sunroof at all and have the roof look like it was never cut up, yes? If that is what you want to know, then you need to find a very good auto bodyshop, it is not the kind of job you want to give to an inexperienced shop. The hole in the roof needs to have sheet metal welded into place then ground smooth without warping the existing metal, then the imperfections will then be smoothed out with filler, lots of sanding and then paint. As nix240z says, you could also have the whole skin of the roof replaced. Find a good body shop first and see what they recommend. good luck

Kats, my 03/70 240Z that I just sold had a black interior and the hatch panel vent was identical to your blue panel. Chris

Very clean, there is a lot to be said for fresh wire and connections. I guess the fuse panel itself is water proof yes? If you are not a stickler for originality then there is no downside, just keep the old harness so it stays with the car. I just had a look at their website, $300 is a good price, is that a master kill switch under the panel? Chris

Same here.

I'm not much of a 'Original Guy' but for fun here are the things I picked out that are not correct, -Overspray, wrong fuel pump, top throttle bell crank should be straight, brake master cyl caps, speakers in doors, wrong radio, missing bumperettes, headlights, P/S mirror(shouldn't be there), wrong D/S mirror, wrong antenna, wrong wheels, some kind of lock just to the left of P/S brake light, front marker lamps upside down, wrong wiper blades, shifter boot colour might be wrong, rear deck carpet from a later year. What did I miss? The only clue that there might have been a colour change is that little splash of Datsun orange paint just to the left of the P/S shock tower data plate. Looks like a solid $14,000 car in need of complete restoration to me.

As Betty and Wilma use to say "CHAAAARGE"

Thank you Joseph for addressing this, it would be a great thing for all of us to be able to iron out issues like this and also good for MSA. Thanks to Zed too for getting the ball rolling.

Namerow, Sweaty, I wonder if the 3 speed resistor has anything to do with your blowers running faster with reverse polarity?