grannyknot

And the show is on again! With the 1970 Z on its way to California now, I finally have my garage space back and a few pennys to rub together for a change. First order of the build is to weld together an engine stand that will also hold the Z dash so I can integrate both of the wiring harnesses and instrument cluster. Good bye old friend.

Got it, the 3 speeds of the blower. Thanks

I started work on the quarter windows, the fixed corner at the bottom of the frame is where water can accumulate and rot out the steel brace that is welded to the stainless steel frame. After soaking the brace in Evaporust I drilled through the spot welds and Mig welded it the frame back together and sealed it all back together. The brace really should be SS as well and maybe before it all goes back together I'll grind out that old peice and replace it with SS.

It sits between the blower and the heater box and the blower fans ground is wired through it. Thanks, Chris

Used, $10 bucks at the wreckers.

The squirrel cage on my blower is the amber coloured clear plastic cage, not the original white steel cage. I found the opposite than you guys did, red wire from the blower motor to battery positive, black wire from blower motor to battery negative, with the squirrel cage turning in the proper direction (that is, with the sharp edge of the vanes of the cage pointing forward and cutting the air, counter clockwise as viewed from the passenger seat) is at least 3x the speed and air volume as in the reverse direction and reverse polarity.

Tackled the heater box the other day, the reek of mouse pee was overwhelming and you can see what it did to the metal. Re-purposed and old cooler that was large enough to fit the heater box into and got out the Muriatic acid. It can be a a bit nasty to work with but it sure gets the job done. Once clean of rust and rinsed I scrubbed everything with a lye based soap, rinse, dry, prime and paint. The smell of pee is gone.

I didn't have any problem with the installation of the KIA seals on the doors or hatch, the hatch I just used the palm of my hand to push the seal onto that lip, no leaks.

You are not going to find a $30,000 Z for $1,500 I'm sure you know that. If it has sat under a tarp outside for 25 yrs then you should do some very through digging under the carpets and underneath the car, just be prepared to walk away. Any rust you see is only 20% of what is actually there.

What is with all these double post that are happening lately?

Primed everything dis-assembled, reassembled and then final paint, it's a rickety contraption before the the 4 nuts are tightened. Clever, that would have saved some bruised thumbs.

Sweaty, that's good site, I could spend a lot of time there. I got my quote back from Technostrip just south of me, $1650.00 That is just for the shell of the car with no doors, hood or hatch. I'm good with that. The quote I got from them about four years ago for the 1970 Z was about $3600 but that was for the whole car. I'll have to get some kind of water soluble rust inhibitor so I can keep the shell rust free until all the welding is finished. Then set up a temporary spray booth to coat it with epoxy primer. Got a few things done last weekend, the front grill was kind of banged up so dismantled it and straightened things out a bit. The 4 uprights that the grills fit into are made out of the softest aluminum I have ever dealt with, very easy to wreck quickly. I wish I had taken some before pics of the console, it was very faded and scuffed and after 2 coats of SEM Landau Black it looks new again, never used the SEM before but really pleased with the results. The shifter boot is the leather one I bought on ebay from England. It is well made but the leather is thicker than the stuff Nissan used so is very difficult to get the clips over it that hold it to the console.

I emailed Carl Beck last night, asked him if he had ever seen this before, "Hi Chris: NO - I’ve never seen that. That’s amazing. I guess a mistake was bound to happen at some point. Interesting how they “X” out the errors- and put a little NISSAN Logo above them. {NISSAN - hamburger}. Thanks for the pictures." Carl I hope this is like misprinted stamps that are worth millions of dollars, shall we start the bidding at $200,000

Love it, clean and simple. Is that a second adjustable knob on your brake proportioning valve?

John, you might want to contact Raff,(CARELESS) he'll know for sure and may have some spares even.

Steve, did you take any pics of the seat mount adapters you built? I haven't got to it yet but I will have to do the same thing. Yeah the Wesco inertia reels are really touchy, everyone who gets in the car gets the warning, " Now pull your seat belt out VERY slowly" Chris

Since so much of the restoration of a restomod 240z pertains to stock cars I thought I would document all of the normal stuff in this thread and all of the modifications here, The car has rust in all the usual places but a lot less than the last Z I did so I'm hoping things will go a little easier this time. Still playing around with the idea of taking the car down to the chemical strippers and having it dipped, that would save many weeks of scraping, grinding, media blasting, breathing in rust and thinners. Very temping, I have heard all those horror stories of dipped cars still dripping acids and solvents after the paint job is done and wrecking the paint but that makes no sense to me. The car goes through multiple tanks of acid, neutralizer, degreasers and rinses, then all the metal work and welding takes place and is bone dry before the paint happens. Has anyone actually come across a documented case of a dipped car wrecking the paint job? Chris

Maybe it was Monday morning,

Well I stood my ground and said my way or the highway, he chose the highway. I was going to cancel the transaction but that would have left a black mark on my sellers record and some negative feedback from him so I filed a non-payment claim so the 4 days would elapse and ebay would cancel the transaction and I would be free and clear. As soon as he saw the non payment claim against him he turned around 180 degrees, met all of my terms, sent me the full payment with no attitude. As much as I think Simon in Denmark would have been a better owner, I really didn't have any justification not to sell it to bidder #1. So he is the new owner, TFX transport will pick up the car in a few days. Just like to thank you guys for the great advice, it allowed me to stand back and see the big picture. I have sold lots of cars and bikes before but never over ebay and I found the whole thing to be a very stressful experience, even intimidating. Thanks, Chris

Resto? It's perfect! You just need a little dirt on that alternator. Please don't tell me you are going to wreck it with show paint and comfortable interior.

Resto? It's perfect! You just need a little dirt on that alternator. Please don't tell me you are going to wreck it with show paint and comfortable interior.

This ABS cement method is going to really help me repair all of my interior panels that have aged cracked, good work Gents.

A power wagon, VERY cool.

Blue is incommunicado these days, apparently taking a internet free sabbatical. Hopefully he will come back to us.

Boys, your advice is like Valium, my blood pressure is coming down. You are are absolutely right, I was very clear about the Conditions of Sale, if bidder #1 doesn't want to follow through with what he agreed to then bidder#2 is up at bat. Simon da Silva is bidder #2, of course he wants me to sell to him, that's a good one Simon I certainly hope it goes that way. Chris