grannyknot

John, yes I have heard of those horror stories too but I haven't seen anyway of preventing them except keeping a list of the 2nd, 3rd and 4th highest bidders and contacting them if the 1st guy backs out. How can you be careful? Everyone else, thanks for all the support, it's appreciated. It's exciting but really a nerve wracking process. Chris

Orange, 918 or 915?

I have 3-4 boxes full of Z stuff that I haul to our Z club swapmeet twice a year, all of it in very good condition but I generally haul it all back and put it up on the shelves again along with all the extra Z stuff I just purchased at the swapmeet. Can't sell it, can't stop buying it.

Oh that is the kind of talk I like Colour is a funny thing, some people hate the colour I painted that car, can't stand it. I like it so much I may paint the next Z, the ///MZ the same shade.

It has not even been 24 hrs yet and it's past my reserve of $15,000 already! WITH A BULLET as they say. Now that I know the car is going to a new owner, Bat wanted to list with a $13,500.00 reserve and thought it would sell somewhere around $15,000. In their defence, they do sell a lot of Z's on that site and maybe they know their market is a bit saturated. I still think the site is great and they do a good job that helps us all. Chris

Very slick! Can you make them for the early Z's now? Site, oh yeah it works well.

You don't get a choice, they ask that you describe everything that is wrong with the car and then they put it up at the top of the page.

So here it is listed on ebay, wish me luck,http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-/201565818749?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2eee424f7d:g:HggAAOSwYmZXGAK5&item=201565818749

Jim, the VIN is HLS30 01955 build date 03/70

I'm not saying anything bad about Bat, they know more about selling cars then I do. But they have different priorities then me, they want the cars they list to sell and a lower reserve helps that. A reserve that I am comfortable with hasn't been agreed upon yet. But it is possible (like every seller) that I think it is worth far more then it actually is, that's why I'd like know what you guys think it is worth before I do.

I have that twist too, couldn't figure out how to get rid of it.

Hi guys, I need to sell my early Z to make room and money to start the next Z project. I thought I would list it on BaT but they want to start it with a reserve that is so low I just can't live with it so I'm also thinking about ebay but I have never sold on ebay before so am not familiar with the best way to present it, how to organize transport, the safest way handle the money transfer. I'm not really sure how much to ask for it. I thought I would post some pics here and a description of what has been done to the car and see what you guys think, I know you will be brutally honest and that is a good thing, don't pull your punches. It's hard for me to objective about this car because I have put so much of myself in it. ---------------- I have owned this early 1970 numbers matching Datsun 240Z, HLS30U01955 03/70 since 2002, in that time the car has under gone a complete rotisserie restoration. I have a new Z project in the planning stage so I need to move this one along to make room. The odometer reads 58,000 miles, that could be 158,000 but I have no way of knowing for sure, the original engine may have been rebuilt at some time in the past 46 years as the compression is excellent and runs very well. I completely refreshed the engine. The cylinder head was removed, cleaned and skimmed, all new gaskets, seals installed along with a new timing chain, water pump, thermostat, belts, hoses, sparkplugs and wires, cap/rotor, also a rebuilt Datsun gear reduction starter was installed. The twin SU carburetors were sent to ZTherapy for rebuilding. Original distributor was rebuilt and a Pertonix electronic ignition installed to replace the points, a rebuilt internally regulated 140 amp GM alternator was also installed. The original radiator was rebuilt with 3 cores. The car was stripped down to the shell and rotisserie mounted to weld in the new Zeddfiding floor pans/ rails with BadDog rails welded over top for added strength, while everything was off the car all suspension/steering parts were cleaned down to bare metal and coated with POR15 paint. All bushings were replaced with OEM rubber including steering rack bushings, engine/transmission/differential mounts, all suspension bushings, tie rods,ball joints. Reinforced mounting plates were welded in to accommodate uprated sway bars but only the stock front sway bar is installed at the moment. I stripped many layers of paint off the car, sealed it and re painted with a Jaguar grey. Old style bullet side mirrors were mounted and all stainless steel trim was buffed. I also installed new KYB shocks with stock springs, new wheel bearings front and back with new seals, a complete new stock braking system including new master cylinder, stainless steel flex hoses, pads, shoes discs and drums also new rear wheel cylinders and front calipers. The original 4 speed transmission was refreshed with new seals, bushings, new clutch kit, a new clutch master and slave cylinder were also installed. Drive shaft was rebuilt with new U joints. The gas tank was sandblasted, boiled, sealed and painted, a new tank sending unit was installed. The wiring harness was removed, unwrapped, cleaned and restored with new connectors were needed, a new fuse box was also installed. From the collectors back is a 2.25” stainless steel exhaust system with a SS Ractive exhaust, sounds great! The wheels are restored vintage Appliance basket weaves, 15” x 7”, the tires are Bridgestone Potenza 215/60 . There is one hub cap missing, I have two hub cap services looking for a replacement. The bumpers were re chromed with new rubber trim added. All glass is original except for the front windshield that was replaced with new, all glass seals and weather stripping is new. The dash is 100% perfect as it was one of the last new dashes to be sold by Nissan in the 90’s. The heater box was completely restored with new heater valve, hoses, foams and seals. The interior of the car was coated with Lizard Skin type heat/sound deadening, then Murder Mat sound deadening, then 1/2” thick underlay insulation. A new MSA diamond hatched vinyl interior kit was installed, new door panels and carpet kit also. The original seats were re upholstered about 10 years ago and are in good shape. The car comes with an Alpine sound system installed as well as new seat belts. The original unreliable clock has a battery operated digital clock installed behind the the original face plate.

My mistake, I thought I saw that the thin tube had been cut, apologies. Chris

70, 71 and 72 at least all had their fuel line, return fuel line and and brake line exactly where Sweaty's pic in post #9 shows them.

I don't think that AC controller is going to work...for anybody, ever again. The thin copper tube that comes from the controller attaches to the high pressure valve I think it is called, there is either a gas in that tube or maybe a vacuum but once it is cut open it's no good. AC gurus jump in here.

Elaborate on 'break up'. Is the engine stumbling, the tach, like there is not enough gas?

I was ordering some bearings for R200 diff from the 1983 280zx page and by mistake or stupidity, I ordered 4 shock bumpers thinking that I would get the bumpers that mount on the shock shaft. Well what I got was 4 of those spring insulators that you have. More stuff for the Z swap meet.

Matt, there has to be a Z club in NJ that you could contact and see what the members have on their shelves, at least you would be dealing with guys who are a little more honest. Those prices seem pretty normal to me except the welding, $150 to do a 30 sec job? Unless there is something else that needs welding other than that coolant hole, I would say he is way out of line.

I used a very worn out angle grinder cut off wheel (small dia) and cut half way through the inside race on one of the old bearings then flip it over and do the same then a small cold chisel to knock out the balls. Axle was put in the freezer, hub was heated with a paint stripper gun and bearing was room temp, just a couple of firm taps with the installation tool and it's in. Yes, message in a bottle, since both the bearings are sealed there is no need to fill the inside of the hub with grease so I put a card in there with the specs and history on it.

My comment about the BD rails was in no way a criticism, I love them. I do like the way the rear mounted sway bar is up and out of the way. Installing driveshaft bolts with the sway bar in the way is a real pain. Chris

Got the hubs put together today and just as a reminder these are 72 240Z hubs that have been bored out to accept the larger 280zx bearings and 280zxt stub ales, the companion flange has been modified combining the zxt companion flange with the 240z C/F dust shield. Since this configuration never came from Nissan you need to modify an R200 pinion flange oil seal to fit the back of the hub and seal the companion flange. You will need two Nissan C8189-N3100 seal, they are 75mm in Dia and you will need to remove the outside rubber layer right down to the metal so it ends up with a OD of about 72mm. When the stub axle and bearings are in you MUST sink the oil seal that you modified down until it bottoms on the bearing. It will look like it is in too far but it isn't, failure to sink it in far enough will result in a crushed seal. A nice installation tool can be made from one of the old bearings by knocking out the center. The last shot is my 3/4" drive 600 ft lb torque wrench that I never get to use enough but comes in handy when the axle lock nuts needs 210 ft lb

Okay, now I see it.

All they seem to have done for the later nut is incorporate the washer into the base of the nut. 240 nut and washer on the left, 280zx on the right. Zed, the CV axles are finished and ready to install, I just don't have a car ready to install them into yet. That's another year away.

You cut that air box out of a solid piece of aluminum?!!! Must have been a few chips on the floor huh?

The first pic is the 240z stub axle, the splines end in sharp edge, second pic is a 280zxt stub, they rounded the splines to flow into the threads. I don't know if that helps but some guys are dumping serious torque into 280zxt stubs without problems, perhaps a better quality of steel, better tempering?