grannyknot

That looks like it has real posibilities, vinyl covering for cars is growing in popularity it's just matter of time before more colours and surface finishes are available. I guess that is the brushed metal texture that you used?

I have been wondering how the vinyl they now use on the outside of cars might look on the panels, it stretches and with the use of a heat gun it seems to be able to take every curve a car can throw at it. Chris

I had a set of SK/OER 40's for a few years, I really liked them. The externally adjustable float level and accelerator pump are a nice feature while you are setting them up and for tweaking. Much better then pulling everything off and removing the top cover like Webers, but they most certainly do have emulsion tubes, in fact they accept Weber e tubes and jets. Maybe you just mis heard what he said. They are a good set up and if you are starting fresh then SK's or Mikunis would be the way to go. Chris

That's the aerodynamic way of mounting, cut the wind like budder.

That's pretty lucky, I'm sure I'm not the only here who thought it would be absolute carnage inside. You could just start in 2nd gear

This should be a sticky!

Glisten - pretty much perfect under all conditions Sharkhide - ditto except it will not tolerate petroleum distillates

Chickenman, that looks like my old 84 yamaha FJ1100 only my carbs weren't that pretty.

That looks very much like the OEM rubber Mbar bushings I installed a couple of yrs ago. I didn't have a fancy press so hacksawed the top lip into petals and hammered them down.

Hard to imagine a situation where the instrument lights on a Z would be too bright to the point they would need to be dimmed. My dimmer was the same with a broken off wire so I connected both to the same terminal and bypassed the dimmer and still can hardly see the instruments at night. Chris

Oh it's still happening, just trying to get the 1970 Z finished and ready for sale in the spring, when that is gone I'll have some money and space to work on the ///MZ. I was just looking at this lovely 240Z, http://www.speedhunters.com/2016/02/os-giken-power-americas-exotic-240z/ I'm having a hard time believing those numbers, 376hp, 281 ftlb torque at rear wheels from a 3.3L with carbs. Granted, you have a team of very talented guys and probably a bottomless budget and I suppose the torque number could be accurate but the hp sounds a bit puffed up. This engine that I'm using is the same configuration with 3.5L and FI through 6 independent TB and could get near that hp without a turbo. Rossiz, these pics of the OBX limited slip diff are for you, I had to disassemble it and clean up the hardened on lube they use at the factory, flip the gears 180 degrees and replace the soft cone washers but it's already to install in the R200 diff now. Chris

Hmmm, I know part of the difference is that I am measuring from the tip of stub axle to the bottom of the companion flange as pictured in the 1st pic of the latest post(wish I could just refer to the post #) The stub axles from the R200 diff and the 280zxt are 3/8" taller on the passenger side then the driver side. That's part of it, I just did the same measurements again and got slightly different numbers so perhaps after I do the rebuild on these shafts things will change again. Maybe there is some old grease hanging them up. There definitely is no difference in height between the the 240z halfshafts but the 280zxt halfshafts have the stub axles built in and that is why I'm using D/S and P/S.

So, I finally got the rebuild kits from Summit, only took 2 months but at least they still exist. Did some measurements of the half shafts, 240z shock shaft and 280zxt shaft with modified companion flange, D/S 240z shaft fully compressed, 21.5" D/S 280zxt shaft fully compressed, 22" P/S 240z shaft fully compressed, 22.250" P/S 280zxt shaft fully compressed, 23" So, 1/2" difference on D/S and 3/4" on P/S, doesn't sound too bad.

I'm pretty sure that is the electric fuel pump wires, you can check continuity withe wires that come out of the harness right near the fuel sending unit by the tank. Even though the early cars didn't have electric fuel pumps the wires were put in there anyway. Chris

There is nothing restrictive about the cast iron exhaust manifold so any kind of header with SU's isn't going to gain you more power, it will just be for looks.

An imperial tape measure is all I could find, rear bumper, 33.75" between the inside mounting bolts and 44.75" between the outer bolts, centre to centre. 5.5" between bolts on each side which I think is pretty close to what CanTechZ found. The bumper bracket is 2" deep(that is the stand off from bumper to body) 2.5" wide and about 7" long, both holes on the bumper side of the bracket are slots for proper fitment. The distance between the wrap around side of the bumper and the body of the car is about 1/4". Chris

Chas, if you want I can measure mine tomorrow morning if you still need it, I still have the original bumper brackets on mine. Chris

When I removed the sound deadener from my Z it was winter and cold as hell in the shop, I found that if I let the car cool off over night and before turning the heat on if I went around with a cold hard rubber mallet and gave it all a good wack 50-60% would just bounce off. Then do my days work and next morning under the same conditions I would do it again. I ended up having to scrape very little. Chris

So how does one go about selling a NA car in Europe?

I have always put the thick shiny metal side of the gasket towards the header since it isn't water cooled like the head. Also if the header flange doesn't look like it was machined flat a smear of Permatex ultra black on contact surfaces always helps. Chris

Well, not laughing but a big smile as least. Get a Subaru with dedicated winter tires and there aren't too many storms that can stop you. Be safe guys. Chris

You must be strong buddy, I estimated a stripped Z chassis at about 650-700lbs, that is a combination of guesstimate and what I read in the archives.

I did mine on the cheap and it was perfectly safe, however, the 2 engine stands MUST be connected together at the bottom or you are just asking for trouble. Chris

Take some pics!

Have been taking a break on the Z and just finished up rebuilding this 9"x 45" Logan lathe,