grannyknot

But so many Z brake "upgrades" have heavy front bias, how do you get enough pressure to the back if the PV is wide open? Leon, I'm not saying I know more about brakes cause I don't, just trying to understand this before I plumb the brake lines in.

Well, at the rate you are going with your resto you will soon know for sure one way or the other. Really enjoying your thread. Chris

ksechler, no criticism just a question, it looks like you have the the proportioning valve hooked up to the rear brakes, is that right? I'm going to be installing rear disc brakes on a Z next year and the reading I have done favours connecting the proportioning valve to the front, the reason being that most Z brake upgrades have a heavy front brake bias so with the PV you lighten up the front bias until you have the rears coming on when you want them and the rest of the pressure goes to the front. I'm still figuring this all out and would like to hear your POV. Thanks, Chris

Your valve cover says Nissan OHC, the head is what the valve cover sits on. Go over to the passenger side of the engine and look between the the 1st and 2nd sparkplug, there will be a raised letter/numbers, that is your cylinder head ID. Chris

You did the test for the clutch fan in post #9, in post #10 Cliff confirmed that your clutch fan is good. It doesn't matter if you get NASA to build you a clutch fan, it's not the problem. In post #7 psdeno ask you to check the direction of the fan blades to make sure they are moving air in the right direction, have you done that yet? In post # psdeno asked what is the temp rating of your thermostat and when was the last time it was changed, have you answered those questions yet? When was the last time the rad or engine was flushed with a coolant cleaner. People here are offering you good advice, have the courtesy or focus to act on that advice.

Even if someone did know the exact size it's not like you can go to the hardware store and buy one, it's like the size of a grain of sand. Take the choke knob off, cover the lever with a piece of masking tape, push the knob back on, you are done.

The steering rack bumper as I know it was not a factory installed item but was installed by the dealerships if the car came back in for service, any service. It was not deemed to be so crucial that it needed a recall notice.

This build is still very much alive, just on hold until I sell the early Z. Chris

A couple of posts I've read say that you can get away with using the 280ZXT companion flanges if you remove the zx dust shield and weld on the 240z dust shield, there maybe interference at full droop but not during normal driving... unless you start flying over hills. If it doesn't work then I'll get or make the shortened companion flanges but they want like $400-500 each for those things so I'll try these first. Chris

Okay, I just found the FSM, wow, a hack saw with special note not to scratch anything. I'll do my best.

I picked up a pair of these half shafts to go with an r200 diff with an OBX. I have found a place that still carries the CV boots but wondering if this is a rebuild that can be done by a backyard mechanic? How the heck do you get into the inner boot? Thanks, Chris

I thought I would start by opening the drain plug for about 7 seconds then blast a quart of oil in with the pre -oiler, start the engine and add or drain later after checking the dip stick. I think eventually I'll get the timing down so it will be just a 2 step process. It may be that I'm doing nothing but making myself feel better but with all the threads this year about destroyed cams... I have also timed my engine, 40 seconds from starting to crank the engine until the first dribbles of oil come out of the oiler bar and that is with a fairly new oil pump. Anyway, it can't hurt and might help.

In our climate my engines sit for 4 months sometimes and first start up always makes me cringe thinking about all those surfaces with minimal oil protection. So I have put together a pre-oiler that will blast fresh oil into the oil circuit before start up. I was thinking the oil sender hole might be a good candidate, can anyone see a problem using it? I welded an air nipple to the top of he fire extinguisher and will have 90lbs pressure on when I squeeze the handle.

Got to bump up this thread, some great stuff here. My dash,

Here is my dash,

Oh oh, I think you got the engine block colour wrong, it a shade too dark, tear it down, start over, and do it right this time huh

The nice thing about taking the car, rust and all to the sand blasters is when it comes back you can see exactly what needs to be cut out and what can be saved. Chris

^ Now it has a racing grip

Ima77z, first off welcome, Super Clean is great stuff but it will dull paint if left on too long. In fact I'm restoring a 72 yr old lathe at the moment and I drop all the parts into a buck with a couple of gallons of SC, within a few hours the paint and grease just fall off. Once the engine bay is clean, one of the most versatile products I have found to put some depth and shine back into paint, rubber, plastic, any smooth surface is Auto Glym Instant Trye Dressing. It's a British Company, they make a lot of different products but this one can be used for almost anything. The thicker you put it on the shinier it will be, a very spare wipe of it will leave a low sheen that will last for weeks and it hardens as it drys so dust doesn't stick, great for car shows. Chris

Well done! If you keep working under that car with those blocks like that you aren't going to be around to enjoy it. Chris

Matt, any further comments about the BC coils now that you have wrung it out a bit? Chris

I agree, that's why I'm selling the momo

Mineral spirits, paint thinner, varsol, even old gas works. What does the head look like, are there a lot of deposits and sludge there too?

I had a lincoln 120 mig that I used for years with no problems, I welded new pans into my Z and I pushed that little thing and never reached the end of it's duty cycle. I tolerated the fluxcore until I could afford the argon setup and I would never go back to fluxcore, messy, crummy welds. Chris

Then there is the retro racing look,