grannyknot

I been going though the archives of this subject and for me at least it's a dizzying array options and requirements. I have a longnose R200 open diff 3.90:1 with ujoint half shafts that works perfectly but would like limited slip capabilities. Is there a clutch type or viscus type closed gear set that I can install in my existing housing? Thanks, Chris

Build your own,

I see your 1949 REO and raise you a 1952 Chev,

Beautiful work. We are all going to be watching this one. The only thing I don't recognize is in the top left corner of pic #7, the two wire rectangles hinged to the flat square? Chris

Werup, thanks but I just want it known that it wasn't my idea, I just stole it off someone else on this forum. But it does work well and I think the added chanel wouldn't even have to be welded on, some seam sealer would probably do the job Chris

Methyl Hydrate on a paper towel then Invisible Glass cleaner to remove the streaks.

Mike, You know one of these days you are going to run out of things do to improve your Z, then what are you going to do? :: Sounds like a great system. So there would be no choke point for the power to flow to the headlights in all that tiny circuitry ?

Site, You have to remember those are Canadian prices, we get over charged for everything up here. I'm sure an American shop would give a more reasonable price. Chris

There is also this option, http://www.jpngarage.com/BC-Coilovers_c7.htm A few guys on this forum have bought them but I still haven't heard what they think of them. The company has a a good reputation and the smaller dia spring would allow a wider range of wheels and tires. Chris

Nice work, good for another 40 yrs.

An exoskeleton rollbar! I gotta get me one.

Mike, very nice work as always. The new intake looks like a solid unit and the velocity stacks are stunning! I had a hard time getting my trumpets centered on the the intake hole of the carb so took a piece of ABS plumbing pipe and tapered it down and inserted it into the trumpet with the nuts loose, then tightened. It probably doesn't make much difference but makes me feel I have done everything to allow a perfect laminar flow of air. Chris

Ryan, That is interesting, I'll keep it mind. Although at this point I have all but ruled out using carbs on the M6 engine, I will just have to get over my unfamiliarity with electronics

Good for you, you're going to love it.

Ebay, I think they were about $30 the metric drills are in the blue kit and the imperial drills are in the handle of the hand drill.

I thought I took more pics but here is what I ended up with, not pretty but it works well.

Because the triples on my car are so thirsty, I fill right up the filler neck as much as I can. No leaks so far.

I had a similar problem when I put the R/T mount in, the only way I fixed it was poly mustache bushings. $1500 ! Do you want me to post a a WTB ad in the forums of OntZCar for a 4 or 5 spd?

When you get a final, actual, for real this time, definite notification to pick up the car, let us know, I'll see if I can skip off work. Chris

Mark, that is great news, unfortunately I won't be able to make a Monday due to work. I was looking forward to meeting you and giving you a proper send off. Oh well, looking forward to the pics and remember to bring at least one spare oil filter with you for that crucial first oil change. Chris

That is a great idea Chas, I'll do that. I was thinking about the miles of wire in the M6 harness today and it occurred to me that all the those engine management systems I listed would have to go to the ECU first. It might just be as simple as following the wires from the ECU connector back through the harness and leave the rest. Blue, I would really like to do that for you but I'm going to need some more time before I can offer it up. I have only kept it because some future owner might want to have the matching numbers original engine.

Wow, maybe I should ship my car to the EU with prices like that. I think Blue is the one to talk to about that. I do have the matching numbers L24 still tucked into a corner of the shop and a local guy chomping at the bit for me to sell him the mild L28 that is in the car right now. I sure wouldn't want to start with another rust bucket, I already have my share of iron oxide in the lungs. The guy who rebuilt the s38 M engine for me said he could source a intake manifold that would accept triple carbs but he said I would be crazy to do that. So I need to post a question on one of the bimmer forums, I would have to take the wiring harness out of the M6 and isolate just the engine management systems, distributor, timing, O2 sensor, throttle position sensor, flywheel and water temp sensor, cold start valve and all that and eliminate the rest. I'm not sure that is even possible yet, the Motronic 1.1 system might be ancient by todays standards but it's still electronics so it's got me at a disadvantage. The engine produced 256hp at 6500 and 243lb tq at 4300rpm and that was before the after market chips were available so yeah that would move a 2300lb Z along quite nicely. The mileage I was getting on the M6 last time I checked was 9.3 L per 100km on the Hwy and that is hauling around a 3700lb car. Pretty hard to beat fuel injection. This is not my engine but still an s38, with that short tranny I could move the engine back 4.5" in the engine bay and improve the weight balance of the car. Chris

I did say it might be a terrible idea and it certainly wouldn't be the first time. Charles, I started doing some of those measurements today and came to the same conclusion. Yes, it would go "feral" pretty quickly. OK thanks guys, I appreciate all of your advice. Chris

Site, thanks helping me make the decision. I really do not want to do that again! He'll never get $7000 for that wreck.

Why not? I have all the parts now, I think it's worth exploring.