grannyknot

Gottcha, yes, I have those bolts put aside and ready for that test. For anyone following along those are M6x1.0 But if I determine the accelerator circuit is the culprit is anything really do about it? I'll start with lowering the float level from 26mm to SK's recommended 29mm and go from there. Thanks for all this help Philip, Chris

"3 spill jets" do you mean the 3 progression holes? Those would be tiny bolts. Or maybe you mean the port in the middle of the Aux venturi?

Well, I think I'm a step closer to my 240Z///M. I let the ad for the M6 lapse, just can't deal with one more lowballer. The question now is do I sell my turn key Z that is finished and find another neglected Z to start over with or pull the L28 and tranny from this car and install the M goodies?\ Chris

I'm pretty sure I'm going to install the M6 motor and trans in a Z but I started thinking about all the suspension parts and if it would be possible to use those as well. I've never done a suspension transplant before so this might just be a terrible idea but I thought I would ask, where would I start on this? I think I would have to keep the Z steering rack... I guess I would really have to place the entire front and rear suspension set up under the Z and see what metal needs removal and what needs to be added for support.

I measured the side air hole on the F8 idle jets and they were all 1.1mm, it is suppose to be 1.2. Anyway, I drilled those out to 1.5mm and the idleing at 900rpm is was great at 13.5AFR but light cruise was 15-17 so soldered them up and went down to 1.3mm and the readings were very similar to 1.5. I realized later, after going back to 1.1mm air holes that the air temp was cooler the day I tried 1.3 so that is where I'll probably end up. So, at the moment, MJ 135, ACJ 210, Idle jet 55F8 with 1.1mm air hole Idle at 900rpm is 11.5-12.5AFR WOT 9-12AFR and FANTASTIC Light cruise 10.5-11.5 but with a little more throttle it comes up to 13.5-14 AFR for example, 55mph, 2500rpm in 5th gear is 10.5-11.5 AFR but add a bit of gas bringing the rpm up to 2600-2700 and the AFR goes to 13.5-14. I can't figure this last bit out at all.

An old mechanic told me once that I should always add a heavy gauge ground strap from the alternator to the frame of the car and another from the engine block to frame. Hopefully I've averted possible problems.

How about taping it off and and hit with paint stripper? After scraping off the paint you can make the aluminum fresh with a soda blaster. I use this quick and dirty method, FF to the 1 min. mark, all you need is an air gun, a bit of tubing and a box of baking soda. Chris

April 19th I turned the mixture screws back out to where they were last year, 1.5 turns. I soldered up the 55F8 idle jets and re drilled to 45, undrivable!, way too lean, then drilled them out to 50, driveable but lots of lean pops on slow acceleration and light cruise on a flat was between 14-17 AFR So today I drilled the idle jets again back to the 55 they were before and no surprise I'm back to 11-12 light cruise on a flat. It seems impossible that .05 mm would make such a big difference in AFR, but I'm starting to think the mixture screws are playing a part in this that I don't understand yet. The fact is I just don't know how to adjust the mixture screws properly, I have read all the tutorials saying turn them until you find the fastest idle but turning one screw at a time doesn't make that much difference and really, for me it's just sort of guessing. There has to be some other way to verify that the mixture screw is where it should be other than just by ear? Chris

So what are they like? Would you say they are comparable to Tokico Illuminas?

Hey guys, Our local Z club - OntZCar, had the spring swap meet today at Whitehead Performance, the shop that is doing the insurance work on Scott's 240Z. Scott was there and his car, he spent the whole morning surrounded by guys shaking his hand and being congratulated. I doubt he had time to look through the tables of Z parts he was kept so busy. I'm sure our minor celebrity wouldn't mind if I give you a bit more detail of the story. Apparently, as far as Scott and the cops can figure the thieves never even got the engine running. They smashed the D/S rear window, opened the car, smashed the ignition off the column (bending the steering column). Then put it on a trailer and stored it somewhere. Scott started his media blitz campaign, and had half the continent keeping an eye open for it, the thieves, realizing the Z was far too hot to handle, backed the trailer into a field and rolled the car off. It sat there for a couple weeks they think before eagle eyed Cody spotted it. Scott says the odometer is right where it was when he parked the car in storage. The cops lifted some prints, so who knows. The car doesn't look too bad, some broken glass on the deck behind the seats, steering column banged up, a chip off the corner of the front spook and a few paint scratches. The engine bay needs detailing as a bit of rust started on the corners of things from sitting in a wet field. Insurance is going to cover it all. I forgot to take my camera this morning but lots of images were being taken so I'm sure someone will post a few. It was a very good day. Chris Admin Mike, I love the green ANSWERED stamp at the top of the thread, very clever.

I think if you were preserving existing factory sloppiness, then maybe. But trying to re-create factory sloppiness I would be afraid that the client might just think you are not very good at what he's paying you to do.

Red7, that's the 1st time I've seen it, thanks.

Well, here is a bit of good news for a change! Scott has his Z back! http://www.thestar.com/news/gta/2015/04/23/owner-reunited-with-his-bluebird-a-stolen-vintage-sports-car.html

Yes, I did the whole thing and the inner bearings are a real bugger unless you have the right tool.

Thank you Blue! Philip, very kindly just sent me 3 Nissan rockers so I can replace that bad one. You are a scholar and a gentleman.

There are a few threads on the rear wheel bearings in the archives but the long and short of it is, The rear bearings last a long time. Mine had 152,000 miles on them and were in perfect working order when I replaced them, but I was in there anyway and didn't expect to go back in the future so I replaced them.

I don't know if it Canucks or just Z guys ::

I have a heater core from a 9/70 Z sitting on the shelf and it is gloss black.

Take some good pics of the dash and put it up on kijiji, craigslist, OntZCar with this note, Buyer pays shipping.

Very pretty, what is the Rocker arms USA price like compared with Delta?

That is tidy engine bay, very smart looking.

If your alternator is smoking then you better start with electrical system. Start at one end of the car and clean every single plug, connector and ground down to bare metal and see if that helps, if not I would pull the entire harness, remove the tape and examine every wire for breaks and fraying. You will probably run into many bad splices and tapping points were POs have had their way and screwed things up. Chris Or as Zed Head says, it might be just be your polarity but you are going to have to tear into that harness at some point. I'm firmly in the "rip it apart and build it back up" camp.

That's good news, maybe I should stop trying to fix what is already working.

Made some progress today, realized I couldn't get the engine over 4000 rpm cause I didn't synchronize the gas pedal stop and the butterflies, I was missing a 1/3rd of the throttle. Talk about a rev limiter! I worked my way up in jet sizes to 135 MJ 210 ACJ. There is a small stumble between 1200 -1600rpm but more pedal pushes through it it easily, smooth acceleration all the way up to 6000rpm AFR at 13-13.5 on cruise up a slight hill, 12.5 on a flat. I think I can tweak that a bit more to lean it out but for now I'll leave it and try and fix what I did to the idle. Idle and progression sounded good and performed well but were in the 11-12 AFR. Mixture screws were out to 1.5-1.75 turns so I turned those in .25-.4 of a turn which brought the idle up to 13 AFR but made the cruising much richer at 11-12 on a flat road. Frank H. recommends trying to get the mixture screws down to .75 - 1 turn so I could go up to 60F8 idle jet from the 55F8 which will help the mixture screws but will probably make things richer when I'm trying to lean things up. I'll play with it again tomorrow. Chris

The SK/OER tech manual says when calculating the air corrector jet add .60mm to the main jet, ie, 140 MJ +.60 = 200 ACJ Frank Honsowetz of How To Modify Your Datsun OHC Engine says to add .20 mm. I know these are just estimates to get you in the ballpark but that seems like a big difference to me. Can anyone explain why two knowledgeable sources would be so far apart? Thanks, Chris