grannyknot

I don't mind, I love oil wars, we haven't had a good oil thread in a while. Not sure what it is about oil that makes people so passionate but it does lend itself to heated discussion. I love some good back and forth.

MJ 100, ACJ 210 And this is the reason I wanted Weber jets, this is a 150 MJ that has been soldered up and re-drilled to 100 (1mm) but gas is also flowing through the sides of the slot and filling the e-tube chamber, so I have no idea how much gas is coming through. So the cone shaped Weber jet will allow me to be much more accurate.

And then there is Madkaw language... idle jet = pilot jet. It took me many pages of your big carb jetting thread to figure that one out. The idle jet does seem to be pretty good and I bought 6x 115 main jets and 6x 160 air corrector jets and thought I would drill up to larger sizes by steps and record my impressions. I tried the 115MJ/160ACJ combo last night and couldn't get the engine over 4000 rpm. I am also thinking about going down to 32mm chokes cause I think I'm missing all kinds of low end torque and I don't spent a lot of time at WOT at high rpms.

Yeah, I wasn't too pleased about the size of the chokes when I finally got around to measuring them, but in order to change them you have to remove the butterflies right? I thought I would do that test where you pull all the e-tubes and just drive the car with the idle jets, I had no idea the idle jets and progression holes were responsible for so much of regular driving. If I punched it the engine fell on its face, chugged and coughed, but if I was smooth with the accelleration 3500 rpm was easy to get to and at one point in 2nd gear I got up to 4200 rpm before I hit the wall. Chris

That sounds great! But which one do you think I should use?

Blue do think I should do the same 500,600, 800 grit paper on the rocker you are sending me or just use it as is?

Triple SK/OER carbs and I'm about to pull the old style SK e-tubes with air corrector jet and main jet and install Weber style e-tubes and jets so I'm speaking the same language as everyone else. Triple 40s 36mm main venturi 40 (.4mm) pump jet 70 (.7mm) starter jet 55F8 Idle jet So one of the formulas for choosing MJ and ACJ puts me at 144 for MJ and 194 for ACJ Does that sound like a good place to start? Also, L28 engine, head work done, header, all carbs balanced, 900rpm idle, fuel level at 26mm Thanks, Chris

Chickenman, I use diesel oil in my older cars and bikes, it still has adequate levels of ZDDP and I add some of this stuff with every oil change,http://www.acdelcochemicalcatalogue.com/view_picture_description.php?prod_id=15&start=0&page=1&search_frn=Lubrifiants&search=Lubricants The description doesn't list ZDDP but there is lots of in there. I buffed up the cam lobe and rocker and removed most of those marks so now I'll pull the valve cover every 300 miles and have a look. Chris

Well, I could not think of a way to drill out the spraybar inlet where I could be 100% sure that the metal fillings could be cleaned out perfectly so I left it as it was and blew it out with carb cleaner and compressed air. Once the engine catches I'm sure everything is covered with oil.

I am looking forward to hearing what you have to say about this plating kit, I've thinking about getting one for many years but the price of the kit and the power supply together has always made me hesitate. I've gotten pretty good at spray painting bolt heads but I would love to strip them all and replate properly. Chris

It dribbles, but the oil hole for #5 is the same size as all the rest but it is at the end of the line for that section of spraybar. It can't take much oil to fill the gap between the cam bearing surface and the cam tower bearing surface so I would be willing to lose a bit of pressure to the bearings to get a little more to the rockers and lobes. What really worries me is that 40 seconds of semi dry cranking. Can you just trade out one rocker for another? I thought the lobe and rocker had to wear in together. I'm hoping that by improving the start up oiling that the lobe and rocker won't get any worse or am I just kidding myself? Thanks, Chris

So, I charged the battery up and kept the charger on while I cranked, the carb butterflys were wide open and it took 40 sec for any oil to show up coming out of the spraybar. It shot out about 3/4" on some of the spraybar holes and just drips on others. I have a video of it but can't find a way to post it. The spraybar oil holes are consistently 1-1.2mm dia. , the spraybar inlet holes are 2.4mm dia. and the cam tower oil outlets is are 4.8mm dia. Now I could easily enlarge the spraybar inlet holes to take advantage of the larger cam tower oil holes and that would probably increase the amount of oil spraying on the cam during start up but will I be stealing pressure from some other crucial area? I know the inside of the spraybar is clean as I soaked it in varsol 2,000 miles ago and blew it out backwards with compressed air.

I'll do one better, not only did I not install the bump stops, I didn't notice until the struts were installed on the car! Things flew in the shop that day.

MSA is really hit or miss these days.

My wife came over to the screen when she heard oooing and aweing over the fresh zinc nuts and bolts, she called it "mans jewellery"

Like this? If so pm me your name and address and I'll pop it in the mail to you. Chris

All of the lobes on my cam are perfect and smooth except for the exhaust lobe on the #5 cylinder. I have had this engine for about 5,000 miles now and I don't think this has gotten any worse but not completely sure. When I drag the edge of a razor blade over the lobe I can feel the roughness but still not sure if it is gouged into the cam or transfer from the rocker on top of the lobe. What do you guys think? Thanks, Chris

GOTMEGOTMEGOTME, good one

How many miles did the engine run with that pit? Second opinion is needed especially if he is try to sell you the replacement.

About a 100 lbs or so, easy lift for two guys.

Matt, is there nothing you can't do? How about you post a pic of something you have done badly, cause I'm starting to doubt that you are even from this planet. Nice work... you Vulcan!

That would be just about everyone in our local Z club.

Sounds like a bit of a nightmare, you might want to do a complete coolant flush of the engine and rad right now while it's still running, diluted CLR worked well for me. A new Nissan thermostat.

For what it is worth, my 03/70 240z has the oil pan with brazed plate as well. It's a Canadian car. Chris

I'll let Scott know.