grannyknot

One of our local Z club members has had his 240Z stolen. He bought it new 42 years ago and just finished the restoration. If you have a moment please have a look at his thread. Thanks, Chris http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/showthread.php?3205-STOLEN-from-North

Because the leather wouldn't stretch anymore, also I have the leather boot pulled way back to get the pic, normally you can't even see that semi-circle cutout. I had 3 consoles to choose from so cut up the worst one then spent far too much time making it look good again. Chris

Chas, I'm still your student and make mistakes, you are the master

Richard, when I replaced the original 4spd with a F4W71B 5spd in my early 240z I found I only had to remove about 5/8" on trans tunnel sheet metal on the forward most edge of the shifter hole for the the 5spd tranny to clear it. Then I added 5/8" on to the back of the shifter hole so I could re-use the stock shifter seal boot. This is one of the most popular mods that are done to these cars so there should be lots of documentaion in the archives. On the shifter console I found I only had to remover a semi circle notch to keep the shifter from hitting it in 1st, 3rd and 5th. Chris

DatsunZguy and Chickenman, those both look like good products but the more I think about it the more I think I should have a permanent obstruction in there. Captain, as you say, I may have to have one side welded shut but while reading your post it made me think of this: flip over the manifold and drill down 90* to the air passage, through it with a slightly larger drill say 1/8th - 27NPT plumbing tap and then use a brass plug to close it off. I shouldn't have to break through the top surface and there is plenty of webbing between the runners so it shouldn't weaken it too much. And if if it ever backs itself out it won't head toward the intake valve but will just fall to the ground. I put a red dot where I would drill, can you guys see any potential problems?

I just cut the air lines off my manifold then taped some threads and plugged them with bolts. Then got a die grinder and removed all that metal that sticks out into the exhaust stream.

I have the carbs off for some work and noticed that an air passage has been drilled between runner 1 and 2 but none of the other runners. This probably why I've had a hard time balancing the No#1 carb in the past. So while I have it off the car I would like to plug it, but with what? I could drill out the end plug and tap threads but only want to that as a last resort. JB Weld and Silicone gasket maker will both break down eventually with contact with gasoline, maybe a neoprene plug of some kind. I'm open to any ideas. Thanks, Chris

I have an original rad that has been re-cored to a 3row, I looked long and hard for a fan shroud that would fit but with no luck. I bought a 280z fan shroud but couldn't make it fit. I ended up flushing the rad and engine using diluted CLR to make sure I had clean internals then filled with with fresh coolant and Water Wetter and added an 17-18lb rad cap. The temp gauge never goes over the mid mark on the gauge even on the hottest days in traffic, but then I don't have A/C or drive in Panama. Chris

What a wonderful find, looking forward to seeing your progress. Chris

Enjoy your Koolaid Charles Emerson Winchester III, I leave you it to you. May you find it as refreshing as I find it distasteful.

I agree with most of what you are saying. I wouldn't trade my Z for another one as I've put so much work into it and it's just sorting itself out now. But if someone offered me 1/4 million calms for it... well then, I guess I'd have to do him a favor and let him have it. Then I would buy another rust bucket Z and start over. I guess it's not really the amount of money that bothers me so much as this deliberate group hypnosis that happens, guys giving significance and reverence to a product. I think Nissan has always turned out a good product, but that's all is, IMHO products should not be treated as if they are deities.

Wow, what a smokin deal. I've got a pristine E31 sitting on the shelf and one of these days....

Crespo, Welcome to the forum, sounds like you have a good plan for a rolling resto. I agree completely with LOTZ ^, attack that rust as soon as you can, the salty humidity of Charleston will take it's toll very quickly. We would all love to see the pics as you fix her up. Chris

HS30-H, The mistake you and many guys like you make is that you WANT to believe the hype, you want to believe in the uniqueness, the mystique and that it will make you special in someway. The lot of you throw yourselves into mental gymnastics in order to convince you and everyone else of this mystique you want to believe in. Newsflash: the 432 is nothing more than one of several variants of a mass produced econobox sports car. Sorry to break your bubble but I'm sure you won't have any problem puffing yourself back up. Live in your fantasy if it makes you happy but don't try and convince the rest of us that these cars are anything other then a Z with different badging. The Datsun community is far too practical a bunch to buy into that pretentiousness. Now, if some sucker wants to pay 10x too much for a car so he can buy into the lie as well, I guess that's his business and God love him for it.

I never wear a watch, I don't care for Matisse or tennis and diamonds really are just rocks buddy. I leave them for the rich and gullible along with over priced collector cars. Next from you: " Aren't the Emperor's clothes just faaabulous!"

Boy, the price of emperor's new clothes certainly has gone up. Apart from a few pounds of weight savings and a cool little engine, what does this 432 offer that you can't get in another early Z for $225,000 less? Badging? I guess I will never understand the lure of the "original" thing.

1972 rear end should be 3.34:1 I think.

I waffled over that for a while but finally went with the metal side to the header. The intake/exhaust side of the head is flat so it seemed best to put the flat side of the gasket next to it, the head is also water cooled so the header might be hotter and need the metal ring. I've put 3000 mi on it with that configuration and no problems so far. Chris

I used this method for years until last year when 2" of the pencil broke off in the cylinder and of course it was the end with the metal band on it. I spent many hours trying to pull it out through the spark plug hole but finally had to remove the head. Now I use a drinking straw the same as siteunseen.

tamo3, is the white box in the upper right hand corner the ECU? I'm not familiar with 280z's

Chas, that's some great there, that should be a sticky. Chris

Thanks Leon, I gotta stop taking forum opinions as facts. I think I'll just go out and drain my tranny right now.

It's the NS you need to look for as in Redline 75w/90 NS (no sulfur)

I want a 1962 Cedric wagon!

Zed Head, modern windshields and the sealant they use now do make the glass a stressed member of the unibody, not sure if our old windshields could handle the strain. Tomo, your idea about the stress gauges is much better then my loony laser plan, stress gauges would give us some real data, But then I'm not racing the car, I'm happy with minor improvements.