grannyknot

Thanks all for your suggestions, The Big E and Zed nailed it. I must have banged the clutch fork as I muscled the transmission into place, all it took was a couple of firm taps with a mallet and the fork popped into place. The car is running great and the new tranny is perfect. Even though most of you reading this don't live up here, it is July 1st so, Happy Canada Day!

Using the same pressure plate, throwout bearing collar and fork.

Just swapped one close ratio 5 spd for another almost identical close ratio 5spd and as I'm bolting everything back up I notice the angle on the slave plunger is way off and I had to pull the clutch fork back halfway just to get the slave to bolt up. This all worked perfectly on the other transmission and the only difference between the two trannys is the one that is out of the car has the tall ears on the shifter, and the tranny I just installed has the shorter ears.

Jeff, like Carl B. and a few others here I have used Silicone Dot5 in cars and bikes that are not used on the track for years. It's great stuff. If you do change back to Dot 3or4 make sure you flush the brake system with Methyl Hydrate between types and then use compressed air to blow the system dry. Dot 3-4 are not compatible with Dot5. Chris

Hazmatt, you are doing great work, don't worry about the height of the wheel arches. Once the engine/tranny are in things will even out more and you will be surprised how much the weight of the interior fittings affect the stance. The detail is superb! But with that white engine bay I can see how your weekends are going to be spent once she is on the road. Chris

If your hardlines are in question I would keep the 100 micron filter up by the carbs and a 40 micron by the tank. I have also done the braided wire with a drill on on old fuel lines. Even though only gasoline has run through those lines it is surprising how much muck comes out after a mechanical cleaning.

Series one didn't have vents in the sails just on the hatch.

Thanks guys, I should know better then to trust a parts guy under the age of 40.

My 240z is running a 1982 280zx drive line and the U joints need replacing on the driveshaft. The Nissan dealer tells me that the propeller shaft is one piece so I can't just buy the U joints, although I see shims holding them in, but neither can I buy the whole shaft anymore, discontinued. Do I have to have an an old 240Z shaft reworked to fit(those U joints are still available) or should I just have a new shaft built? Thanks, Chris

Rossiz, good on you, nice stuff to give away. Sawdust seems to be a reoccurring theme in your pics.

In the tradition of the best loved thread on CZCC I bring you a NICE backside Sorry Mods, just couldn't pass it up.

Makes perfect sense olzed, put the steering where is should be and correct the wheels. Thank you

I'm constantly impressed with the knowledge of this forum. Gents, by using the above method I should be able to fix a steering wheel that is slightly askew, right? My toe in is set at 3/16ths on the front wheels and the car tracks well but my steering wheel is not centered, it's off by a smidge. I have tried correcting it at the steering wheel spindle but one spline either way is too much. I know it's not a big deal but on a long drive a crooked steering wheel just gets under my skin. Thanks, Chris

I'm looking for a cap like this, I lost one the other day while driving. The part # inside the cap is 216335 and the dia of the snap in section is 73mm. If anyone can help I'd really appreciate it. Thanks, Chris

Jim, well that is an easy fix, a 10 min. job. Thanks for sorting that out.

Jim, now that you mention it I do remember having to force the distributor in somewhat using the bolts. I then removed the 123unit and did some measuring and found that the oil pump drive tang(male) was not seating to the top of the slot on the distributor, but enough to make me comfortable. It is working fine with no problems but now it occurs to me that the sealed bearings inside the 123unit will be stressed as they are being forced up from the friction fit. The anal retentive in me says "I should pull it now and fix it", the realist says "It might prove to be a problem a 100,000 miles from now". Ed, I would say you just have to skim a bit more out on the sides of the slot and chamfer the edge on the entry a little more. Great product though, I love it. Chris

^ "The CR numbers don't matter much if you can't run aggressive timing" I can't tell you how long it has taken me to learn that lesson. The right cam (for what you want from the engine), proper valve adjustment, proper timing. Get those 3 right and your halfway there.

In my case I had a powerful engine that could not use more than 27* advance no matter what I tried, we have 94 octane available here and I was adding booster to it. I'm very happy with now.

Where's Godzila when you need him?

I guess the cost would be about the same huh? Well,... I simply need a 2nd Z.

You can also use electrical shrink tubing, heat it up and it shrinks right down to look original.

Philip, tell me you are measuring and are going to start producing this head.

Steve, I installed new rubber bushings to the M-bar when I switched to the R200 diff but the THUNK every time I changed gear got to be too much. I burned out the new rubber, put in the poly replacements and the thunk is gone and I guess there is a little more driveline noise but not much. I'm very happy with it. I also have the R/T mount with a poly plug just touching the top of the diff nose and a new stock rubber mount underneath. Chris

Nice work Dave, I did a Lokar cable when the SU's were in, and I was happy with it. Very smooth. A throttle cable drop in/plug and play unit could be a profitable product if someone was to do the foot work. The smoothness of a cable compared to the Mechano set linkage that most of us still use would be very convincing.

What do they taste like? You gotta try it sometime.