grannyknot

Smart arse You know what your getting in to, you just have that same sickness most of us do, we cannot leave it alone, gotta try something new. Can't wait to hear about it.

Butterscotch interior! You don't see that much, very nice. Good to see that you are going to continue to take care of the car in the family. Chris

Adjusting the booster pushrod did the trick, a bit too well! I adjusted it out about 1/4", the pedal felt great and so I took it out for a drive and didn't realize the brakes were partially engaged already, Pads and rotors heated up quickly and just managed to pull over before the car stopped itself, luckily I had my tools with me. 1/8th" on the push rod was all I needed and all is working well now. Thanks guys, Chris

I have a F54 block, N42 head that has been heavily worked with flat top pistons. Compression was 10:1 and I was chasing ping. Tried cooler plugs, higher octane, richer settings, none of it helped. Bought a 1.5mm steel head gasket and the ping is gone and now I can finally use full advance. A longer duration cam will also fix the problem if you do end up with ping. I'm looking forward to this build. Chris

My 240z has has original M/C, calipers and drums, everything is new. Modifications include 280z brake booster, SS braided hoses and Poterfield pads. The braking is excellent, the only problem, if there is one at all, is the brakes don't engage until the pedal is a 1/3 to 1/2 of the way down on the pedal. Is there anything I can do to have the brakes engage nearer the top of the pedal? Thanks, Chris

George, is the ujoint you bought for the steering shaft or drive shaft? Did you find it up here or in the states? Thanks, Chris

I bought brand new fenders from Nissan 2 yrs ago and they don't line up well with the doors. At some point I'm going to have to take the car to a body shop and have them fix it. If I could do it over I would have tried harder to find old fenders in good condition. Chris

There are no vacuum numbers because I have no vacuum ports.(working on that) The old set up was the original distributor from the 03/70 2.4L engine with a Pertronix ignition module. It worked okay but the compression was 10:1 and I was chasing engine ping that would not allow me to use total advance. This winter I installed a 1.5mm steel head gasket and lowered the compression to 9.5:1 and the ping is gone and the advance numbers are up. I'm pretty sure the output numbers are also up but we'll see when it's dyno'ed. Here is the code with the actual numbers for the advance curve I'm running right now, this is a curve that Whitehead uses a lot for the engines they build. Ed, no those aren't my numbers, the screen grab above has what I am running. Just saw what I posted, lets try that again, that's better.

By the time you finish welding floor pans in, fabing up some seat brackets will be childs play, just measure off the old ones. Then you can take that extra money and p/u the Bad Dog rails, beautifully made and will add real stiffness to the body. I also used Zedd findings pans and love them.

Thanks Tomo, that's much better. Haven't dynoed yet, hoping to in the next few weeks.

Finally got the car back from the shop, they did some tweaking of the carbs and installed this curve into the 123tune distributor. I am just loving it! The car is running better then it ever has. I'm thinking about adding a vacuum log so I can make use of the MAP function.

Ed, if you asking in general for L24-L28 engines then the open form should get you the best response, Open S30 Z Discussions

I heard the same thing from Greg Whitehead, they got their lawyers to sort out the mess and hopefully they won't trust their distribution to anyone else this time.

Casey, yes all three bushings were replaced. I've been doing a bit of research on U joints and I have come across the advice to use only Nissan U joints. Can anyone comment on why they are better or different? Thanks, Chris

Ed, you say pre-mapped version, is that also called the Switched version?

Thanks guys, the buzz/rattling is speed related, I'll pull the DS and start there. Chris

Chas, as you might remember, I was rebuilding my perfectly working close ratio 5 spd tranny because of a buzzing/rattling sound from the stickshift, after rebuilding with new bushings and syncros the same buzzing/rattling is still there and driving me crazy. I rebuilt the spare 5 spd at the same time so I'm going to try the second one and see if that fixes it. I wonder if it could be a something with the universal joints? The sound and most of the vibration disappears when I grab the shift knob. ???

That is sooo bad it's good.

I've seen a few screwy things over the years from dumb previous owners but I have to say the most surprising was two years ago when I put the Z on a rotisserie and found this to be the floor, Those are patches on patches with roof tar in between! There was one place in the floor that had 6 layers, 1 original pan and 5 patches on top of and beneath it.

I had two close ratio trannys apart this winter for rebuilds, one early and one late, The only real difference between the two that I could find besides the 2nd and 5th gear ratios was that the early tranny has a cast 1st gear shifter gate (on the left) and later was cast and machined onto the 1st gear shift rod. There is also some small changes with square locking keys replacing ball bearing locking keys.

Mark, it's gotta be soon, what's happening? My Z is at Whiteheads as well right now to do final tweaking on the carbs and timing. Chris

Have a look at this,Differential Ratios

I don't know the replica fog light kit you speak of but if it only has a hot wire then its mounting bolt is its ground. Attach the harness hot wire to the light and leave the grnd wire hanging, just be sure the mounting bolt is well grounded.

If you are going to install a Pertronx ignition module just be sure that you don't have the key turned to ON for extended periods without starting the engine. There are a few threads on this in the archives and I burnt out one this winter while I was trouble shooting an electrical problem.

I have Kia Sportage seals on my doors and rear hatch, waterproof.