grannyknot

^ That works for me too, beautiful.

Is the fan on, something caught in the squirel cage?

If POR15 is not applied exactly the way they recommend, then, yes I agree, it can hide rusting metal. But if you follow the directions with no short cuts, well I haven't found a better coating. As with all coatings, prep is everything.

That's not a bad price considering every part would have been degreased then sand blasted before the powder coating over the fresh metal. I know the American guys are scratching their heads right now saying "That's not a good price, what's he talking about" but up here that's pretty good, we just pay more for everything, you get use to it.

siteunseen, would you mind sharing the make and model number of that unit?

Tomo, I think I'll just build something like rossiz did, I have lots of black vinyl kicking around from motorcycle seat projects. Great idea.

Black paint in the engine bay always looks like you are trying to hide something to my eye. Besides, if you are are considering it from a collectors pov then the whole car (engine bay included) should be painted whatever colour it was when it rolled off the assembly line. If you what to paint the car a different colour then just make sure you get the best job done that you can afford. Oh, and welcome to forum! You won't find a better place for Z info. Chris

Man that is going to be so friggin sweet! You just can't beat powder coating and new zinc. I was just looking at the map, you should have that engine run in by time you get to Thunder Bay, do a quick oil change and you still have 3 provinces to open her up. You might want to p/u a spare oil filter at Whiteheads so you have one on hand, just in case they hard to find where ever you happen to be.

Reverend, if that rear freeze plug is leaking coolant because of a corrosion issue you might want to replace them all while your at it. Sorry, I'm sure you don't want to hear that.

That does look like a nice little pouch. I don't carry any tire changing tools or tire for that matter but always carry a collection of various tools similar to what rossiz in post #6 describes, but I think I pull that tool kit out half a dozen times a season at car shows or group drives when someone's car needs a bit of tweeking. Tomohawk, do you think you can get a better price from the vendor, what kind of numbers would we need to make it worthwhile? Chris

You might want to try these guys as well, LED Lights, Bulbs & LED Lighting Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS

Tim, I had a thread bookmarked that showed everything in the heater/blower box but just checked it and it's not live anymore. Search the archives using "Rebuilding 240Z heater/vent system PICS". Basically you will want some kind of sealed foam or plumbers putty all around the outside of the heater core so all air flows only through it.

Nice work!

Reverend, so what did you do the match up the triples to the stock throttle linkage?

To add to what FastWoman says, some of us old farts will actually TRY and get behind you because we miss the glorious smell of raw gasoline and burning oil, wonderful. I have a 1970z and the smell was very bad when I got the car and after replacing hatch seal and door seals the thing that really did the trick was installing a BRE type rear spoiler. It's well documented in the archives of this forum and many others that it usually makes a big difference as it breaks up the back draft that Kamm style rear end creates. Welcome to the site, hope you enjoy it. Lots of good info here. Chris

Steve, I was just about to ask the same question. I just looked it up and the MSD 6al standard or digital ignition draws .7 amps per 1000rpm so even at 6000rpm it's only pulling 4.2 amps, so still okay. But I guess if you are going higher in rpm and considering age of crimps and soldered joints then replacing the stock wires with 14ga would be more than enough? I'm just staring at snow banks thinking how I can make my car better and more reliable...spring will come one of these days. Thanks, Chris

On my 240 there is a 16ga green/white wire from the ignition switch to the back of the tach then becomes a black/white wire, also 16ga that goes to and powers the ignition coil. Would there be an advantage in changing those 16ga wires for 14 or 12ga? 16ga just seems kind of thin to power the whole ignition system. Thanks, chris

I tried a pair of older Miata seats and I found I would lose a lot of travel on the sliders because of the steel pan on the bottom of the Miata seat would hit the front cross member. I ended up using Integra seats because they are flat bottomed.

You won't hear many people say this but it does work, grab and old wood chisel and tap it into the seam between the tranny and engine block in 4-6 places and keep rotating those positions until you see them separating and keep at it until the dowels come out(about 1/2 inch) then it will be free. The problem is almost certainly the corrosion between the dis-similar metals. Before you mate them back together you will need to take a file and remove any lip or gouge on the transmission that may have happened during separation.

Jacco, I would just echo a lot of what has been said already. But it sounds like you are looking to buy from one importer who has a number of cars to choose from, would you mind letting us know who this person is? Just out of curiosity it would be interesting to see how the overseas sellers describe and sell to EU. Personally, I went for an early 240z and then installed a 280z driveline, light car - lots of power - just don't crash.

BC Racing Coilovers, looks like modern fully adjustable coilovers might be coming our way. ***** BC Racing coilovers for S30 ( Whats the interest? ) ***** - Z-Car - Ratsun Forums

Just measured mine from a 1970 Z 1.575" from the surface of the disc that the wheel bolts against to the surface that the pads ride against. I can give you other measurements if you want them.

Along the line of what Zed is recommending you could also saw off the nipple of the BSPT sender and solder on to a generic oil pressure sender then using a fine drill to clean out any solder that made it into the hole.