grannyknot

Zedyone, you could also rebuild it yourself, I was very hesitant to open my tranny up this winter but with the help of a couple of youtube vids that deal specifically with our transmissions I got it done. It's very simple mechanism once you get it apart and you only have the reverse gear and syncro deal with, they are the first ones to come off.

Are those puffs coming out of the tail pipe or the air horns?

Just don't ask him to sell you a higher wattage bulb than what he thinks is appropriate or he'll cut you off forever, "NO SOUP FOR YOU"

I think that is what slease bayers call "going fishing" you might get a bite, you might not.

SU's on a Rebello? I see triples in your future.

I can't see a downside to adding oil, a vacuum can be defeated by draining the oil out and KYB shocks don't fit that tightly anyway. I've had to remove inserts that have rusted solid in the tube before and it's not fun. It only takes an 1 oz to do the job.

Pretty sweet deal, the kind we all dream about, Congrats. So what are your plans?

Thanks Mike, I am using a 3ohm coil. Found an interesting video made by 123 comparing Pertronix, points and the 123 system. Interesting, but do yourself a favour and watch it without the sound track. <iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/AAfHflrpm4s" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

All righty then, I just placed my order, looking forward to this. I love the feature of being able to switch to a different curve while you are driving, that sounds perfect for a performance choice and maybe a gas saving choice for the highway. Chris

An update. I'm still going to use these filters, but I put together these filters from the UNI foam so I could get them on and off quickly for test and tuning. They might also be good for going to car shows as the Ramair filters are much tighter. Unless...I cut larger holes in the back so they install and remove easier - hmmm, worth thinking about.

Ed, since you are on this thread now could you elaborate a bit on the Switched 123 distributor? What kind of curves it has... Thanks, Chris

Mike, or anyone want to comment on the Switched 123 dizzy? It has less options for fine tuning I understand but could it also be a good choice for an engine running triples?

Thank you Gentleman. That answers my question and few I hadn't thought about.

On a basic automotive relay where #30 is power in, #87 is power out and #85 and #86 are the two sides of the coil with one side usually being the signal and the other side is ground; why does a layout like this work as well? No ground going to the relay? This diagram is from Pete Paraska site, Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Thanks, Chris

I would take power from the battery or alternator but as Steve says, a properly sized relay and fuse is a must.

You can run into some big headaches trying to get that block drain plug out. If you really want to get the last drop of coolant out then just lift the rear of the car as high as you safely can with the rad drain plug open and leave it for 20min.

Oh there are lots of suspension experts here but I suspect they are waiting for you to do a bit more homework in the archives first. You can also hunt through the archives of Hybridz, there is great info there. The blue Tokicos you linked to are a good set, quite firm for street but good quality. The company is having distribution problems and may not be able to back up the product. Your link is probably for NOS.

I'm sure I posted this pic, I had a bit more room to play with then you do. The ? looking hook that I used is very different than yours. The real problem you are facing is trying to correct for lack of alinement in 2 different axis, you may just have to bite the bullet and go with a cable.

Costjo, I can only speak for my experience and that includes restoring 6-7 bikes and 8 cars now. First off, the rust shown in the pics doesn't look all that bad. The rust on your car might be worst than the pics show but I'm just going on what I see. Rust on thick metal parts of the suspension and such is not such a worry, it's really just a visual thing. Rust on ANY thin metal such as the body of the car, floor panels, rocker panels, quarter and rear panels is something you should do something about as soon as you can. Getting rid of rust without removing anything, NO, forget it. To take care of rust you have to treat the entire part. But, you can slow it down by spraying oil regularly, those of us in the north do it every year and it can extend the life of the car by many years. As others have said, clean the car as best as you can, inside doors, panels, underneath, get as much salt and dirt out as possible. Evapo-rust is a great product. I haven't used it on anything that I couldn't submerge in it but the link that was given shows that it works well with repeated applications, so worth a try. POR15 Marine Clean is a serious cleaner, so much so that I have almost stopped using my solvent dip tank/parts washer. Por 15 prep acid wash is excellent before using the Por rust paint. POR 15 paint is a big topic and can't be handled here. You might want to spend a couple of hours in the archives as all of your questions have been asked before and answered. Chris

Zinc plating can be expensive as most shops have a min. charge. I remember someone on this forum a while back talking about a zinc cad coloured paint from Eastwood or maybe Dupli-color, it looked pretty good. Really, you just want to protect the metal so any silver type spray paint will do the job and not grab the eye. Chris

I'll bet it feels a lot better than before, have you done the T/C rod bushings yet?

Brake light switch?

So here is how it turned out, I still have to cleanup and wrap the main engine bay wiring harness. But I also used this down time to add 4ga cables to the battery, alternator, starter, grounds and back to the amp. I found a new product at my favorite online electrical store, shrink wrap big enough to go around a relay, Although I wouldn't call it water proof, it's pretty close.

moelk, you might also target some of the Canadian Z clubs, we have been using kms for 35 or more years.

I'll re-post this on our local club forum, many members use Whitehead exclusively. Here's the link to our forum,Florida Z owner looking for opinions on Fujitubo exhaust