grannyknot

Here is the thread I was referring to, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48317-what-do.html

George, I just got my MurderMax the other day, the reviews are good and I thought the price was fantastic. It will be a few months before I install it.

Here is a job I have been avoiding. If the passenger side rear panel was off this would be a breeze and I didn't want to have to remove a perfect panel so I cheated a bit, the angle of the new panel is almost the same as the mounting area of the flange on the tank filler hose but the rest is different. Real hard to get in there and work with a welding helmet on. here the rear hatch deck is rusted in the usual places, I can't believe it, I deleted the image before I saved it, what a twit. I'll try and insert the finished deck next time. Here is a little improvement on the original design, I got this idea from a recently posted thread that I can't find at the moment. Basicly the drip rail in the hatch area dumps rain and wash water right into the spot where it always rusts...I wonder why, so after reading this thread (sorry guys I have tried twice to find it now, it was just a couple of days ago) I decided that now is the perfect time to weld in 4" of new chanel.

Looks perfect

Herman, I mis-read, thought you were thinking of selling. Matching numbers are good for some guys, well worth keeping. I have a matching numbers engine in the corner of the garage waiting for the next guy.

Cute, but I was thinking of my Japanese Quilt. I was lucky that I got it just in time, a few more years and it would have been a parts car.

After having dumped money into Mustangs, Triumphs, BMW's, Alfa Romeo's, Toyota's and now Datsun's I can tell you without hesitation that whatever you have spent is gone forever, forget about that money, it was not an investment. Selling your car as it stands right now, clean it up, be perfectly honest with the condition and have backup receipts for any work that has been done on the car. The market for selling old cars is not very good right now. Be ready to take a soaking or hang on to it until things improve. As for original vs modified I have found as long as it is done well both will it sell. Good luck

Any particular reason you went with the Kumhos? They look great and have an aggressive looking pattern. Chris

Thank you, I appreciate it. I know what you mean about resolve, I walk into the shop sometimes, stop and shake my head. "why do I keep buying these projects" The only way to get myself going again is to grab a small project that needs doing and just focus on that. I also printed out a couple of inspirational photos, I love these both, not really sure what mine is going to look like when It's done but it sure won't be orange.

I needed to repair a few things before I could start fitting the D/S pan, transmission mount was looking punky, this is from the inside looking down sort of where the corner of the seat would be, So got most of the rust off and treated with phosphoric acid, I'll prime that now and add the patch A couple of days ago our temp shot up to 14*C or 57F and all our snow melted, I was working in a T shirt so took the opportunity to open the garage door and get most of the solvent washing done. More patches, I know some of those welds are pretty ugly, sometimes it's hard to get a good bead going on the old metal. All of those patches will have matching ones on the inside as well. Floors are almost done, just waiting for the rails to arrive. I'll start on the back tomorrow, hatch deck needs some work,

Ben you sure have been through the wringer on this one, hope all goes well now and you get to fire it up shortly. Chris

I have been lucky that all but one of the seat mounts were restoreable but not this one, too far gone, so made a template, and welded the new one up this morning, once it's in I'll add some bracing.

Here I'm almost finished welding in the passenger floor, I forgot to take a pic of the finished inside rocker but you can see it here. The ragged edge is from the first guy 30 yrs ago, hard to make this kind of patch look good, Fitting new patch, and this side almost done just need to add the rails, so I've started on the driver side floor. The clutch pedal pivot wash elongated from so many years of wear so added a bit of weld that I'll file round again. Clutch M/C connecting piece was the same way, All together with no slop.

National Geographic has block this vid.

Zohan, when you get ready to put the car up make sure you mount the tie bar (the piece joining the two engine stands) as low as possible. Most engine stands don't have enough clearance to allow the car spin 180*, a low tie bar will help. Chris

I noticed in the pics posted today the new rocker panels, would those be from Motorsport Auto or are they still being pressed in Japan?

Steve, yeah the T/C boxes are a mess and I was just going to crush them in and weld the Baddog rails over top of them but just saw how you did it, Brilliant! Cut the bottoms out, clean everything and slide the new rails up and weld in. The Baddogs will then fit over top of that and give terrific strength. Can't wait to get to it.

Hi Casey, Oh I knew I had some work ahead of me just didn't think it would be this bad. Well just plugging away at it, starting to fit the passenger side pan and create a template for the forward foot panel. I know these pans are normally installed from inside but I really don't want to remove the seat mount/brace. I'm just afraid of the rocker sagging away and so far I can't see any draw backs to mounting from underneath. If anyone knows of any I would like to hear them. Got my Technoversions R/T mount and Tachadapter today, And of course if there is a new box in the garage no matter how small, it has to be checked out. Ted's a box man,

Steve, thanks for putting these pics, always good to get another perspective. Chris

Get those carpets up, you are not going to know what your buying until you find out the extent of the rust. Once you can see the floors start poking around with a screw driver, if the owner doesn't like what you're doing walk away.

Sorry gnosez but I have to disagree, clear silicone sealant is great for kitchen & bath but for automotive you need something that will take heat/cold, vibration, paint and petroleum products. Also, silicone isn't much of an adhesive. Permetex makes an extensive line of sealants for every application, a little more expensive you are only going to do it once.

I guess the last 3 revs were the break in procedure. Stupid me but I thought the engine assembly took place somewhere cleaner then on the line with a guy and a rag cleaning off the cam. I guess they know these cars will never be high milers so they don't go to any lengths.

Bart I agree completely but the quotes I got for sand blasting and chemical dipping started at $3600 and went up depending on how long it took. That is an awful lot of money to me, I can buy all kinds of speed and handling with that kind of scratch. So considering I work for free... it was an easy decision. Started work on the Passenger side inner rocker, it's in bad shape but no one makes these pieces yet so I'll have to fab them out of panel. The second panel in is actually the inner panel above that goes up to the dash support and down to the bottom of the rocker, Here I have cut off the rusty bits off the inner panel, now I can clean everything inside before building it back up. The inner panel is 20 gauge and the next one out (or in depending on how you see it) is 16 gauge. All I could find is 18 ga so I'll use that for both and should end up with the same strength. Before I do that, can anyone tell me if two layers of 18 ga equal one of 20 ga and one of 16 ga ? You can also see the what is left of the original rocker, still not sure if I'm going to cut all of that out yet or not. It does add strength but is also a source of rust, maybe I'll flood it with phosphoric acid to convert the rust then flood it with POR15 And I got what I ordered just 2 days ago, Murder Max, I've read a couple of reviews and both were glowing. Multi layer, reflective aluminum foil inside and the price beats everyone else for sound deading.

Well I got some good work done this week Most of the tar and undercoat is off now, I have a 40lb box of it sofar but still have a couple of days of washing everything down with solvent. The scraping didn't take as long as I thought it would. After four days of scraping I headed back into the patches, Here is the car I really bought. Previous owner left some stuff in the car, maybe I'll box it up and ship it back to him Had to cut out the rear seat mounts cause I couldn't find any other way to get through the layers and I already removed the bottom layer before I cut out this section, Here I've started to prep for floor pan fitment, I was hoping that I could keep the forward seat mount in place and fit from underneath but I'm not sure I'm going to be able to do that. Parts of the rockers need work too but if the floor is out at the same time as the rocker I'll have to take it off the rotis and block it up horizontal to keep proper spacing. When I'm I going to learn, VISIBLE RUST IS ONLY 10% OF WHAT IS THERE! Madkaw, I'll pm you, pics would be very good right now.

I just had a look, they don't have any but what a great site, all kinds of goodies.