grannyknot

These pics were taken in Japan at a Fairlady / Z car show. These covers were probably produced in Japan. Anyone know where I can pick one up? I've seen the one available from Borla-TWM and it's nice but not in the same league as this one. Thanks, Chris

Here is some more rust porn, I got bored of cleaning off tar so treated myself to tearing into it. This pic shows five layers, four patches and the original steel, the pinkish panel to the right covered them all from the bottom, This is about ten hours scraping, I know it still looks a mess but this I can wash down with solvent. Very little rust back here, something to be said about leaky engines.

double post

He's kind of pissed at me right now cause with the car on its side he can sleep on the roof anymore, his favorite spot.

Well I was born and raised in Van but haven't lived there in 23 years and haven't been to Pitt Meadows since scout camp in 74.

That makes sense, yeah it is sturdy and takes one hand to rotate. I didn't know where the centre of gravity was so just guessed, as it turns out the front bar needs to be mounted 4-6 inches higher to get it neutral. Mine is a bit top heavy but not enough to make me want to re-posistion it.

My rotisserie is quite crude but does work well, my Z is an early car so is the lightest of the series. I found a couple of sources that put the shell at about 700lbs. Once I get all the patches, tar, sand, crude and 6 layers of paint off it should be a 100lbs lighter. The cast iron plumbers flanges and nipple are 1.25" seem plenty strong to hold 350lbs and if they are not...... well I'll have even more body work to do :] This is my assistant Ted, he's very good at helping when I don't need it. I was removing the brake lines this morning am wondering why they used two distribution blocks, the one on the right doesn't seem to do anything. Anyone know?

I didn't want to start a rebuild thread until I had done enough so there was something to see, so here goes. 1970 240z, 4 owners before me and apparently none of them were mechanically inclined as I have hundreds of bills and receipts going back to 1978 for the simplest of jobs. The car also has had some really poor body work done on it that will have to be removed and repaired. Here she is the day I brought her home last March, it looks pretty good but there are all sorts of sins being hidden by roof tar and under coat. Pulling the engine, mechanically the car is in excellent condition with only one wheel bearing and the slave cylinder needing replacement (I'll be doing all four wheels though) Here is yesterday, finally got it up on the rotisserie a month later then planned but there is no rush. There is probably a month of spare time needed just to clean the layers of undercoat, waxoyl, tar, oil spray and all the sand that has been picked up over the years. Here are some pics of the layers of patches on top of patches with tar in between, This one is the drivers footwell, you can see that the first patch was actually riveted over top of the horse hair insulation. I have a set of Z Findings floor pans and a set of Baddog rails are on the way. I was kinda hoping I would get all this done this winter but not sure now. Anyways, I love a challenge. Chris

Thanks all, I found a local Z owner that has a couple and will cost very little to send to me. MikeW., I always forget Rockauto and every time I go to their catalouge I'm blown away with the variety of cars they sell stuff for. Chas, I'll keep your recommendation on file, he seems to have a good supply in case my other deal doesn't work out. Thanks, Chris

Took apart the original brake calipers to rebuild them but two of the four pistons are shot, rust breaking through the hard chrome. I haven't checked yet but kinda doubt Nissan will be still be selling these. Guess I could have new hard chrome re-plated onto them, or put an ad out for anyone that have changed out their front calipers for something else that maybe they could sell me their old pistons. Any other ideas? Thanks, Chris

Strange I should come across those last posts, in addition to the /70 240z I also own a /87 M6, an /89 535i and a /90 K75s. I'll see if I can find some pics. Chris

Good luck, could be a great project. Don't seem too eager but make it known that you are interested. Cities usually just want to liquidate these kinds of things, set a price of what you think it is worth (and that means all of the stuff that it will take to get it road worthy, rust repairs and such, then double it).

MSA, I could start a whole thread on how cheesy most of their stuff is. Bare minimum is what they strive for.

Just for anyone who is following this thread and looking for the same answers I am, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88025-installing-tokico-280z-hp-springs-in-a-240z/ thanks to John C., LeonV, Jon M., Zed ....

I saw this at our local Z car show this summer, thought you guys might enjoy it. Not something I would do but the teeth were quite realistic.

I never would have noticed, the front springs two topmost coils are 1/2" apart and the rest 3/4" apart and the rear only the top coil is progressive. What are the most common springs that are used to replace these? Thanks, Chris

But John, my front and back springs don't have the usual progressive shape, tapered. Mine are a straight column springs 4.25" wide top to bottom and 11" tall, 11 coils. Can there be a softer and stiffer section of such a spring?

UPDATE, Finally got the front suspension off and this is what I have, Front shock, Tokico Illumina T0BZ3015 (BZ3038) Front spring, Tokico 5020F (140 lbs) Rear shock, Tokico Illumina TOBZ3016 (BZ3038) with a 1-7/8ths" spacer, Rear spring, 5020R (165) Talked to Tokico today and they confirmed that this is the set up they sell for 70-74 240z and gave me the weight rating for the springs. So, I have the proper kit for the car, the springs are a lot less than the P/O told me and seem to be all most exactly what the European spring set were. Also, of the four shocks there was only 1/2 of a bump stop on the passenger side front. (urethane bump stop cut in half) the other 3 shocks had nothing in the way of bump stops. So... obviously the bump stops were a major problem that will be fixed, bump travel probably isn't a lot because of the lowered ride height, and I guess I'm driving the car harder than I think I am : ) I'll start with installing the missing bump stops, if that solves the problem, great. If it doesn't then I guess I'm looking at stiffer springs to prevent me from hitting them in the first place, does that sound like a good plan? Thanks , Chris

Considering I'm not going to get any work done on the car tomorrow, or for that matter the next week I got up early and got the shop heated up and most of the suspension parts warmed up enough to get a couple of coats of POR15 on them before the family pulls me away. Merry Christmas guys.

Mike, I just restored mine last month, what was sealing those two pieces and most of the rest of the heater box was 1/8th to 1/4" foam with a sticky backing. The closest thing I could find from the hardware store was the peel and stick draft proofing for older doors and windows. In some places I just used RTV sealant as it will probably be another 40 years before the next guy gets in there to refresh. But that particular join your asking about could use 1/2" foam strip as the bellows behind it probably isn't very springy anymore and you'll need the thicker foam to keep a seal. Somewhere in the archives is a step by step heater box overhaul, can't find it at the moment but it is worth the hunt. Chris

Have you dropped it in boiling water to see if it works, if it opens? If it is a bad unit and failed to open then...but it would take a lot more than 20lbs to push the lip up. Interesting problem.

My set of triples are OER/SK's (Weber clones with a few refinements), just wondering how it is determined that a set is 40's, 45's or 50's. Is the measurement taken at the narrowest point near the butterfly valve or at the front where the air horn attaches? I ask because I would like to purchase a set of air horns and those cool SS mesh filters that snap over top. Carbs Unlimited (thanks Zedyone_kenobe) sell them as well as Peirce Manifolds but they all seem to come from one maker. They say they filter down to .009" - is that good? Is that enough or is it only for car shows? I love the look, but I don't want to sandblast the insides of the engine for looks, I want the engine to last a long time. Thanks, Chris

I say T.O. cause no one knows where Tottenham is, I'm just down the road a piece. We should get together for some restoration chat.

pacemkr check this site out, http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html He sells a very nice RT mount and other goodies.