grannyknot

It may put out 70 amps but only if there is a 70amp draw, if your Z is basically stock you won't exceed the 45 setting and if it does it will just peg the needle until the draw changes.

Might as well just buy a Vette, I'm all for modifying but I would never pretend I could design a better looking exterior. It's like Ketchup on Filet Mignon.

Whoa!, I think that belongs in this thread,

Yes, I have to admit that I am taking all my plating needs to service now and the expensive plating kit and power supply are just sitting on the shelf gathering dust. I'm all about DIY but some things are better done by others.

But you have to remember that the inside diameter of the brake line is just 3mm so there is not much volume to begin with and when the pedal is pushed the fluid rushes through the line quickly taking air bubbles with it. One possible problem with bleeding the brakes on our cars is that the farthest rear brake from the MC is not the P/S but the D/S, the D/S rear brake should always be bled first then the P/S or air bubbles could get hung up at the 3 way connector.

You'll love the speed bleeders, I work alone too and they make the job so much easier.

Charles, the plating you did in your garage was very impressive.

A shady PO or shop could also have swapped out a nicely restored turn signal switch and replaced it with one from box of used parts.

Well the reason you have not had any inquiries about your car is that most if not all members here already have a Z and aren't looking for a 2nd, sort of preaching to the choir. Also a 2+2 is a harder to sell because they weren't that popular back in the day and still don't have a large following. The usual places to sell your car are craigslist, ebay, Hemmings, Bring a Trailer, and Auto Trader.

Here are my original 510 front springs,

Beautiful as usual, could you share the details on the steering rod Ujoints?

Oooow, that can be a tough area depending on where the rust is, I'm going to guess that it's the fresh air chimney and firewall just in front of it? Any pics?

I might strip the ///MZ down to the metal and do the paint properly this time, I was happy with it when it was first done and it has only been a few years and it is already showing flaws from poor prep.

Yup, what kind of body work does your Z need?

And she's off to a new owner - I hope. I know I know, I should just keep her and enjoy it. But I'm not a collector and I'm hankering for a new project. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-510-6/

Thanks but I just borrowed it from the Z guys that came before me, no you can't see it unless you get on your hands and knees and it doesn't come near tire.

Did you do the compression test with the engine hot or cold, did you do the wet test after the dry with a squirt of oil in each cylinder?

I think you will find it is just the opposite, sounds like you have already reached the limits of the Flux core capabilities, with a gas Mig you can weld a much wider range of metal thicknesses and gas Mig it is very predictable. If you get one just spend 10-15 min. playing around with welds on sheet metal and I think you'll be surprised at how easy it is to run a good bead or spot weld.

So in this pic, is the tape you have on the rear roof edge getting marred or scuffed up by the hatch as it passes over it? It is one of the tightest clearances on the body and as much as we all like to have perfect gaps on every panel the guys on the Datsun assembly line weren't so particular. Great looking paint, did you do that yourself?

All I'm saying is you can't think of any part of the body as an individual piece, because it isn't. In your case with the fire wall rusted out the stresses have to take other routes which isn't good. There are lots of little things you can do to a 240-280z body to improve stiffness but most of them aren't practical unless the body is stripped and on a rotisserie.

Because it's a unibody the A pillars flow down into the uprights that the door hinges attach to on either side of the car then that flows into the rockers, on the inside of the floor pan/firewall is the transmission tunnel that ties it all together. You could also add a direct connection between the two and some triangulation.

Have you noticed that one corner of the hatch touches before the other? Possibly a warp in the hatch frame? I don't have a photo of them but there should be to long thin shims that both hinge bolts go through on each side, are they installed?

All the way through reading the above I'm thinking "this is a flood car" and then your last paragraph confirmed it, the only way I can think of possibly solving this problem is to pull the entire wiring harness from stem to stern, lay it out on the shop floor, cut off all the tape and start cleaning, testing for continuity and resistance on every wire. There is also the possibility the water has wicked up the copper wire under the sheath, has corroded the wire but is completely hidden. It might be a better all round decision the buy one of the many aftermarket wiring harnesses kits and start fresh.

Absolutely not, geographically they are based in the same area but the guy at showcars has proven himself to be a bit of a scammer. He boasts a huge variety of makes and parts but in reality he has very little in stock. I haven't checked him out in a while but most of what he offers is fiberglass, only when he gets a fully paid order does he start to fabricate the part, then if the parts arrives at all it will be many months away and a pretty shoddy in its fabrication. At one point he was also offering Charlie Osbourne's pans and rails at a sizeable mark up, I don't know if that is still true. A number of members of the OntZclub got burned by him and it is common knowledge now to steer clear no matter how good his offer sounds.

datsunzparts is Zedd Findings, yes it is a real business and he takes orders all the time, Charlie might be too busy to answer you're email immediately.