grannyknot

I guess your cowl was rust free but that foam was the cause of thousands of rusted out cowls, water got trapped between the cowl and the foam and it couldn't evaporate. I put 3 little blobs of RTV where the foam used to be so the cowl is still supported but there's no place for water to hide.

If they are going to modify it they are not going to want to spend as much as the guy who see's a possible original car in it, original hunters are usually willing to spend more.

Looks amazing!

I can't get the pics to open but if you want the most for your car you should get it running well, fix the minor repairs you mentioned, clean it up, replace the Recaro seat with the original and take extensive photos of the car showing every area of the car especially the bottom. Have a look through these previous auctions for ideas on how to present the car, https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/240z/?q=datsun 240z Oh, no danger of the wolves eating the sheep, everyone here owns at least one Z.

The ignition switch might not be working because a previous owner has been monkeying around with the input wiring, you might want to trace those wires back until you find the splices, those aren't the original colours for the ignition wires. I have a number of ignition switches, I'll get back to you in storage, I'll have a look through them and see if any of them have one tab, I'll get back to you.

I don't think I've ever seen a wiper motor cover like that before, only the vinyl bag type cover and that's on 240z's through to 280z's.

When I was 14-16 yrs old in 74-76 I worked at the Automat car wash in Burnaby B.C. The customers would drive up to the vacuums and then go to the waiting room for their car to come through the wash. There was an unwritten rule that stated any coins you found on the carpet or tucked into the seats were free for the taking, now at $3.17 per hour it wasn't hard to double you hourly pay on a busy Saturday. If you were lucky enough to be the one who got the job of emptying vacuum canister on a Sunday there was another $10 in there for sure.

The wealthy Ferrari owner, who only putts around town a couple of times a month takes his car into Tony's and says it isn't running very well, Tony says "No problem, I'll personally fix it myself" Tony grabs the keys and takes the Ferrari on ripping mountain drive, an hour later he pulls back into the garage with engine purring like kitten, he calls the wealthy owner and tells him to come and pick up the car. The wealthy owner shows up and starts the engine, "It sounds fantastic!" Tony smiles and hands him a bill for $1,500.00

I would think that it's condensation bringing out some of the carbon soot with it, that will probably disappear with the new exhaust.

You could try immersing it in wintergreen oil, some of his rubber parts have been out of stock for a long time.

This is the diy alignment tool I bought after years of toe adjustments with the string method, https://www.wheelalignmenttools.com/product/2-wheel-alignment-system/ The tool allows you to measure and adjust toe, caster and camber, pretty happy with it.

Gottcha, didn't know those were there.

I've never heard that before, what is the rational behind having no metal in the gasket?

So if the difference between the new pistons is less than 2.2 grams don't you think there is enough meat on the 4 corners where the arrows are pointing to be able to even them out ?

Did you use distilled water or tap water?

Just a note on your photo in the first post, if that right rear lower quarter panel is from Tabco then the shape is quite different than what it should be. They never got it right even though they have told so hundreds of times.

It's easier to get those raised areas flat than the entire flange and as said above the concentrate the pressure.

@zKars

Made that, 1" dia Oak dowel with a hole drilled in the center and a threaded metal insert epoxied inside. I made it on a lathe but it could easily be made on a drill press too.

My township does something similar so I take my used coolant into town where I know the guys at the local garage, they have a 300 gal tank where they store theirs between pick ups. I bring them coffees they let me dump.

Oh right that happened to me as well so I coated the rubber seal and the door frame it rests on with some light lithium grease so the seal slipped pass area that it wants to hang up on, I had to reach down to that area from inside the car with long knife and once the seal was sitting properly close the door and leave it that way for a couple of days.

The compounds I mentioned are heavy cut compounds that break down in a very uniform way into polish, If you start with polish your surface has to already be shiny.

Thanks, they are from the last year of the Mazda RX8, one of the few things that was good about that car.

These are the 2 polishing compounds I use, both are considered professional quality and I have had good success with them, a lot of the products that are offered at the big box stores are pretty watered down. You might also want to have a look at this forum, https://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=7&sid=96df9ee49358224206cc6444bd0b90b4 Some really knowledgeable guys, guys who actually make their living doing finishing.

I cemented both sides of the right angle on the back of the seal to the door and let them cure with the door open with no pressure on them, the doors have spent most of the time since installation closed and so far they are holding well and sealing properly, got caught in a rain storm coming back from getting the car safetied and there were no leaks. I wish I could say the same for the 240Z, I have to carry a towel in that car.