grannyknot

Rockauto, why pay more for the same thing?

I've never had to fool around with the reaction disc but you can bleed the MC by routing some clear hose from the bleed screws on the MC and bring that hose up and immerse into the brake fluid reservoir then just pump the brake pedal until all the air bubbles are gone, without bleeding the air from the MC first you'll never get it out of the rest of the system.

The suspension parts should be identical between the 2 cars so you shouldn't have a problem there, the poly bushings, although they may improve the handling will give the car a harsh ride, if you're tracking the car they will be an asset, if it is a street car you may regret your choice. There are a number of members here, myself included who have installed poly bushings only to turn around and replace them with fresh rubber bushings. Sand blasting then paint or powder will give you great results.

I think so, it's still attached to the wiring harness, I'll drag it out tomorrow.

Having parted a few BMW's I have quite a collection of Bosch relays, what kind do you want?

Maybe post this thread over on Hybridz, or Ratsun, much better chance of finding someone who has tried it one.

Beautiful, you can also install the wheel/tire to the strut, lay the wheel on the ground and stand on it while tightening the gland nut. Looks like a nice rust free car.

hmmmmm, " An aggressive street muffler for the performance enthusiast where clearance and space issues need to be addressed and want a quieter sound." An aggressive street muffler with a quieter sound? Although it does sound pretty good here if you FF 1min. 50 sec.

What do the crank journals look like?

I have used the head bolt holes and old head bolts to pull the block out, never had a problem.

Here is my old workhorse, hard to beat a Schumacher, the old Motormaster 10amp I use exclusively removing rust through electrolysis. I can leave that thing on 24hrs with no problems, that's something I don't like about new chargers, they are so "smart" you can't use them to remove rust.

Jeff, you have to build the engine now, bring it up to the potential of that nice pan.

I was on a roll this afternoon,

Thanks, slipped right by me.

You will almost certainly get a better product from an independent distributor specialist than you will from rockauto , of course it will cost more. You could also have a go at it yourself, those dizzys are not very complicated, pretty basic to teardown, clean and reassemble.

Sound deadener and wiring harness is in, she's supporting her weight again and ready to install the engine/trans this weekend. The car will sit a lot lower when the weight is back to normal.

Age 10 Major Matt Mason Age 11 - 61

Just one horn?

Back in the 70's every car smelled like gas, it was normal. Mmmmm, leaded gas, I miss that smell.

I didn't own a scale when I did the 240 but I weighted the 280 a couple of years ago and the stripped shell was 530lbs so the 240 is probably close to 500lbs. A bare bones L28 engine is 304lbs and with the 5speed attached they weigh in at 435lb.

I will have the KA engine on the hoist in a few days and will post a definitive weight then, but yes not much heavier than the original engine with an additional 65hp. I don't have a target weight, it's not going to be a track car and I will be adding some sound/ heat baffling and comfortable seats. The battery is being repositioned to the P/S trunk to help even out the load.

Well, the car came with an SR20 but it was in pretty bad shape so traded it straight across for a KA24DE.

I got the scales out before taking the 510 off the rotisserie, front weighed in at 295lbs, the rear at 293lbs equaling 588lbs, minus both of the stripped doors at 40lbs a piece and 32lbs for the rotisserie mounts. So total stripped weight for a 73/2dr 510 comes out at 476lbs.

The rotisserie is back in storage and have started installing the driveline and suspension, I weighed both ends of the car before taking it off the mount 476lbs for the stripped shell, that's just slightly less than a 240z.

This is the one you are looking for, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=502693&cc=1209170&jsn=860&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS03cFS568snzuV%2FzqSJVZh3498vLYWSuEjp92aoBolonpSpSQFWYTa%2BvRsjhLh9%2BevmKVSOOBX3zHwssv2nWWaURdzmsUtdfYzEwQFSTD7YDnTtDXg%2BU5439eBZILcGrnQc%2FtPZBrn1%2FdD%2FeWMjvVDxjmoay8Rqls600etqdb8d3qJx%2FMwLWEZmvQmW61BRJO9FOaOZL6jkxQhBNyaieYCk6AOYMuwZEftquLIP6yBDUP3Ac8LPoop8fju7%2BfvDDtnfrW3DETFZ1fMPu4RGr9bzeqo5VGRU5neC3u83TZKTMbT96kmg5x7e4lj%2FniZkM9A%3D%3D You can find them at Rockauto, https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,suspension,strut+bellow,7592 For the soft foam urethane bumpstops the dia. of the hole doesn't matter much as you can push them over most if not all struts. With these you won't feel the hard stop you get with poly urethane.