grannyknot

Actually they don't look like they would be too hard to make, maybe not in cast aluminum but out of steel would be straight forward.

Passenger side is done, now on to the fun stuff, reassembly.

Gorgeous!

Oooo, that definitely belongs in the" Z's Only a Mother Could Love" thread.

Yes it is, you will find the rubber gasket will be stuck to the glass like it was glued, it wasn't, just time and heat has made it that way. You will need a putty knife to break the seal.

Yum, I use to live on that stuff in College.

Got a bit more done this afternoon, roof, hood and trunk lid done just the P/S to polish out now and I can get rid of the rotisserie.

Mark, the louvers on the hatch, are they the kind held on with the inserts that slide into the rubber seal or the kind that use throw bolt hasp and hinges?

My diff is squished between the mount and the upper snubber so I think I will give this gap a try and see if that improves the amount of noise. Thanks

Just so you know 25ft is just enough to replace all the brake lines in the car if you decide to go that route.

Wait minute, that's a custom oil pan. Previous advice may not work considering the pan isn't stock so might not have the same clearance for dropping, also your oil pick up was probably lengthened to reach the farther down into the pan, that probably won't affect the removal but might on installation. Sorry, that probably doesn't help very much.

There are a few connectors in the wiring harnesses that I have seen that don't seem serve a purpose and nothing plugs into them. I can only assume that it was easier make up the wiring harnesses so they would work in many parts of the world although not all of the wiring was needed in every jurisdiction.

The Menzerna for both steps, apparently the abrasive particles breakdown in a very uniform way so by the time you're finished an application the particles are polishing. The final step I'll use a dedicated small wool pad and swirl remover/polish before the wax.

I'm roughing it out with the yellow cutting foam pad on the DA sander then the rotary wool pad to finish it, it's not completely buffed out yet but getting there.

I decided to start with 1500 grit just to see if I could save some effort and fortunately it worked, the 1500 removed the dust particles and orange peel, then down to 2000. I've used Meguiars Pro Speed Compound in the past and had good results but I heard about Menzerna's Heavy Cut Compound so thought I would give it a try. Well it's the cats arse, it cut through the 2000 scratches easily and some of the 1500 scratches that I missed, it cuts very quickly, I have one side of the car done, about 90% polished out and I think I will leave it there until most of the car is reassembled, without a doubt there will be bumps, chips and scratches to repair by the time it's all back together. In the first pic the panel to the left has been polished out with the Menzena's, the rest of the panel to the right still has the 2000 grit surface.

That one of your brake line circuits has a leak and now you are using the other circuit to do all the braking.

Brake warning switch

Yes, it's not too bad of a job to get the pan off after the oil pump pick up has dropped into the pan, the problem comes when you have to reinstall the pick up, not a lot of room to get your hands in there and start the two 12mm bolts. As I remember I had to bring the engine hoist in from the side and lift the engine 3-4", disconnect the engine mounts to get enough clearance.

Any chance you post a pic of that setup? At this point I'll try anything. Thanks

Same here, R/T mount with a poly snubber cut so it is just snug against the top of the R200 LSD diff, OEM rubber mount underneath, poly bushings in the R200 mustache bar, 83/ZXT CV halfshafts and still get the dreaded clunk when I engage the clutch to shift to the next gear. It really bugs me but I don't know what to try next, I'm contemplating pulling the whole system and going with the Ford super 8.8 rear end from the 2015 Mustang. There's a guy over on Hybridz that is offering a kit to install the 8.8 at a fraction of the cost of the TTT kit. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128217-ford-super-88-irs-swap-thread-rear-brakes-too/

I got my 1st Pfizer shot yesterday, the arm is a little sore today but otherwise it's all good.

I think we can all agree that aluminum is superior BUT only the cool kids have billet aluminum beanies, foil beanies are for amateurs and DIYers.

Nice work, those seat belt pockets are usually a magnet for rust, you got lucky.

Well you can't go wrong with ZT restored SU's, it might be a good buy to go with the new ones but you would need to find some supporting info and reviews, the website has one photo of the new carbs and that's all I could find, I don't think I could send them a $1,000 based on one pic.

I like the A/C hose protector under the Rad., are you not going to install the original drip pan?