grannyknot

That's almost happened a few times, you have to stay nimble, know where your hose is at all times and plan out your route like a dance routine and rehearse a few times, not kidding. While your doing that be aware of how far your nozzle is from the panel, how fast is your arm is moving, are you getting good coverage and make sure you're not over spraying what the compressor can put out and catch up. I'll take an electrical gremlin or a carb problem any day, at least with those you can walk away and think about the problem, not with painting, you're there until the last coat of clear has been shot. Much respect for guys who do it for a living and don't cut corners.

It's from a 2001 Chev Silverado, Indigo blue, PPG #4717, Dupont #B9323

That's the real problem with painting in the same area where you do all the sanding, contamination is everywhere. If I had more room I would build a painting booth in the garage but as you can see I can't swing a cat in there. So before I start setting up for paint the gas powered leaf blower comes out and as much as possible gets blown out the door, then multiple stages of wiping down and cleaning and washing. The last stage involves washing the floor 4-5 times then fresh plastic sheeting goes up and just before actually starting to paint the floor gets thoroughly soaked with water and still with all that there is lots of dust particles on the clearcoat that need to be sanded out before buffing. However, almost all the of the dust particles are soft primer dust so they sand out pretty easily, give me a couple of weeks and I'll post some pics of the final product, hopefully it will be like glass by then.

Thanks guys, appreciate it. Ken Miles? That's the beer talking Cliff John, you're too kind. The camera keeps over exposing and making the colour seem lighter than it really is, it looks more like this, serious blue.

Quick thinking Lincoln, never give her ammunition to use against the Z.

The big milestone today, paint and clearcoat done! So nice to say that, God I find painting so stressful, just so easy to screw up and wreck all your work. 3 coats of colour and 3 coats of clear, lots of little dust particles but they should all come out when I start sanding the clear with 1200 grit. It's the same colour is was when I bought the car only now the rust, dents and orange peel are gone😉

I've polished a few valve covers now and it's always a good idea to chip off the rest of that original hard epoxy sealant and remove that vent baffle so you can clean the accumulated muck behind it, on a couple of them I found glass beads from a previous restoration. I used a permanent flexible sealant like ThreeBond or Motoseal on the baffle after reinstalling. Even when I get a head back from the machine shop and it has been been sealed up with cling wrap it still has to go through a complete cleaning process.

You know every time I see someone whining about what amounts to be an inconvenience, for example having to wear a mask, I am reminded of one of the basic laws of physics , Nature abhors a Vacuum. For some people who don't have enough real problems in their lives, creating problems out of thin air helps fill that void for them.

That's understandable, if I drove 450kms to see it I would definitely be putting a down payment on it. Having said that, everything is fixable and no matter what Z you end up with, it will have a history and will still need to be sorted out. All these little things that people have pointed out can also be used to haggle the price lower, good luck.

Unfortunately $20,000 is about the price just to get into the game these days, from your pics it looks pretty solid, previous repairs show someone has cared for it. They are not nice looking repairs but they look strong. Ask to see a pic with the battery removed, that's always a trouble spot for rust.

This. The only reason knurling works on a valve guide is because there is very little side to side pressure on that knurled surface so you can get tens of thousands of miles on knurled valve guide, on a crank or conrod journal the bearing shell needs to be fully supported. The bearing shell on a modern engine isn't thick enough to support itself on a knurled surface. Now if you want to knurl your Model T poured babbit bearings that is whole other discussion.

Usually it's okay, clean them with some brake cleaner and compressed air, some guys have had success with replating them, these days I just replace them all with new copper/nickle hardlines because I can't stand the thought of the possibility of rust inside.

Option A or B To do an LS swap properly you will need a much bigger budget than you think.

Maybe I have been sanding too much but did Nissan sneak in a samurai sword motif on the front fender?

You guys, they're just little bees trying to earn and honest living, no pollinators no crops, flowers or fruit. 🐝🐝🐝 Kill the squirrels for sure.

Can you see what made the POP? One of the rollers may have slipped out of the track.

The video of your start up is labeled private and can't be seen.

80 grit, 180, 220 and finished 320 today, move to 400 tomorrow and hopefully 600 by Monday. 50 shades of Grey.

If you have the diff sitting on your hydraulic jack you can raise it into place to see if the snubber needs to be cut, lower the diff and take out the snubber to work on it. You will also have to have the mustache bar attacked to the back of the diff to get the spacing correct. When you install the snubber in the RT mount only engage the nut a couple of threads(this will save you a lot of time) let the diff lift the snubber into place as you raise the jack. Trying to get a wrench above the RT mount to tighten the snubber nut is a job you only want to do once.

What he says, the gland nut that holds strut cartridge or shock in the strut mount will be at the top and if the unit hasn't smashed it's self up too badly you might get away with screwing the gland nut back down. Chances are good you will need to replace both shocks. The tie rod end that you linked to is probably what they are taking about, but if those are shot and need replacing then you should probably also replace the ball joints while you're in there.

The rest of that thread is great and also has a link to "Against All Odds, vintage racing footage of John Morton smoking the Alfa's.

I have an appointment for Physer or Moderna jab on May 5th or on call for Astra-Zenica any day, doesn't matter to me which one I get, maybe I'll do all of them. Ontario issued a stay at home order 2 wks ago and the province has broken the old record for new cases twice this week, there is no slowing down the variants.

Looks like the guy has done some nice work, the only real fault I could find is on pic #119, looks like someone used the floor pan rail as a lifting point and caved in the floor. He should do well.

You can't go wrong with Spal fans especially in your part of the world, I can only imagine the heat when stuck in traffic in Dubai.

If they really are NOS then I would wash them well with either hot soapy water or wax & grease remover, give them a light scuff with Scotch pad or 400 grit and paint them.