grannyknot

Ask them, years ago I had a worked on L28 in my 240z, 188 hp at the rear wheels, a lightened flywheel (I think it was 13lbs) and a regular Datsun clutch kit with close ratio 5 spd transmission. I never raced it but drove it hard on the highway and it was great fun and worked just fine, well mannered in town or at least I didn't have any problem adapting to the way it drove. A lightened flywheel has less mass to spin up and helps with acceleration and that lack of mass also means the engine can slowdown quicker when you're off the gas so can lead to some jerkiness I guess. I've always thought a stronger clutch was needed for a more powerful engine, I'm not sure how a lightened flywheel would affect the clutch in anyway as long as the surface area of the flywheel were the same.

It could be the fusible link was just old and/or corroded, I've replaced a few that were like that.

Maybe the body guy was going for the fender flare included look😁 The driver side door mirror looks like the old Galaxy 500 mirrors.

Honda S2000, they're going for less than Z's, and if money were no object, a Z8.

I have been taking Prevacid for 15yrs, I had no idea. I just looked up the risks for Prevacid, stomach cancer, acute kidney damage and bone fractures, oh my.

We must be on the same MEDS, the voices are relentless. Mine don't just whisper about Z's though, mine encourage me to pick up any old tool that I think I can fix, rebuild or restore. But the other side of the addiction is the "purge" a useful technique that helps me justify my weakness to the addiction, I recently threw up 17 items on ebay because I simply have no more room to collect stuff, about 1/3rd of it has sold and I'm sure you can guess what that money is earmarked for.😇 What a deal! Our cars are becoming more rare but the PNW is still a goldmine compared to the rest of the continent.

Welcome to the forum, an original owner that's wonderful! I'll just comment on the arrester belt, no it was never snug over the top of the nose of the diff so your new belt is working as designed however that doesn't mean it is a good design in the first place. Many owners have gone to the R/T mount to help eliminate some of the thumps and clunks that happen back there, I have some old rubber conveyor belt that is about a 1/4" thick, in the past I have cut 2 pieces of that belt 2"x 4" and slipped them between the top of the nose of the diff and the bottom of the arrestor strap so that the strap is snug, I've found it to be quieter when I'm driving the car hard.

That stripped chassis weighs just over 500 lbs, with the front suspension and cross member attached maybe 650 tops. On a fully loaded Z using the tire changing jack that came withe car I would agree with you on the jacking points but not the way it is. Besides, those points under the T/C mount are probably the strongest areas of the subframe.

The P/S front fender has been resprayed for sure, not a very good match but nice clean Z. Watching the walk around video you can just feel that warm California breeze, I'm looking a foot of snow out my window.

This a problem many of us have had to deal with, the hinges get a bit worn and sloppy over the years, if you loosen the screws holding the hinges to the inner fender, push straight down on both sides of the front of the hood and tighten the screws while still applying that downward pressure. That usually fixes the problem but sometimes the slots on the hinges have to be notched out to lower the hinge a bit more.

I needed a change of scenery so started on the other side for some variety, still lots to do on the roof but you have to take your victories where you can.

Your Grandad had eclectic taste, maybe don't be too quick to clean them up, as we've seen at some auctions houses that that layer of dirt and leaves fetches a premium sometimes.

But that negative feedback was about a set of those SU's, "Leaky and bad carbs, severe lack of communication, didn’t want to give refund" You'll be very happy with ZTherapy's work, I've sent them 2 sets and both came back perfect.

On that car I ended with some generic bullet mirrors which did the job.

Post on both, there certainly is some cross over between the two forums but also a large number of guys who only frequent one or the other. There is also some great advice to be had over at https://www.autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=f044bf1f351a02abe241234902095df9

Very nice shape. Choke cables coming from the passenger side? 1973_datsun_240z_16119573683b6c6730240Z-Datsun-1973-Silver-132.webp

I bought a set many years ago and never did get around to mounting them, I still have them in their original packaging. They are a good solid mirror but you do have to drill 3 small holes in the window frame to attach them properly. If you're interested, PM me, I'll make you a good deal.

A good priority 👍

Here's an old thread from Ratsun with some good pics of Datsun colours, https://ratsun.net/topic/38158-datsun-paint-and-codes/ Whether or not respraying your car in the original colour will add to its value is debatable, you have a sunroof so your car will never be original again without major work so the shade of paint IMHO is your call, I say paint it the colour you like. This car is reported to be #307,

I used an aquarium heater but have a look at @Patcon plating thread, he produced outstanding results with his setup.

Nice set up, what power supply are you using?

? are you referring to the hollow fan blades on the Pratt&Whitney engines on the Boeing 777 ?

I'm in undercoat scraping purgatory at the moment and probably for the next week.

The reason that I have read about is a fully welded runner onto the flange tends to crack easier where as a flange that is pinning the flattend end of runner to the exhaust port doesn't. The small tack welds on the outside of the flange hold it all together but allow the different expansion rates to coexist without cracking. It does make some sense but then I've had fully welded headers that have never had a problem with cracking. Maybe on a race car where there would be more extremes it would be different?

I don't think you're being controversial at all, the general consensus among tire manufacturers for age out is 6 years. Sure you can say that the manufacturers use that number out of an abundance of caution and the desire to make more tire sales and that may be true to a certain extent. I'm as stingy as the next guy but I don't cheap out on tires because those 4 little patches of rubber are the only thing that keep you on the road. Brakes don't stop the car, tires do. Traction control, ABS all the rest of those helpers are worthless without 4 fresh contact patches. I can't remember where I saw it but about 15 yrs ago I read an report on how many collisions and fatalities are tire related, worn out, under inflated and old, it was a large percentage. That's when I became a bit of a zealot and don't even get me started on 4 season tires.