grannyknot

Your guy has serious skills, recreating by hand what came from a stamped press is no small feat. Also very impressed with the dash and console, I don't think I have ever seen the leather covered look done well on a 240z before, the workmanship on yours is remarkable. The fit for the speedo and tach is very tight on an original dash, hope he left some allowance for that.

I think craigola actually brought the price down from where it could have gone.

Nissan split the wiring harness up into 3 units for ease of installation on the assembly line, if the connectors are clean and not corroded the resistance will be minimal.

How about the stick on weights, they are quite flat.

Now that's a porous border, all of our cold slipping pass the 49th parallel.

Lots of rust waiting on the other side of the undercoat.

Just don't get into a situation where yours or someones else's life relies on those 4 little patches of rubber to be at their best. Tire compound has a lifespan and it continues to age whether you see cracks or not.

That's Harmony01 alright, funny how he has taken the "original, never been restored!" line out of the description. On his last ebay listing of this car it was one of his main selling features.

For the life of me I cannot understand why painters try and tape VIN tags, it always looks bad. Drilling out 4 soft aluminum rivets takes less than a minute and replacing those rivets it is just as easy.

^ Nice straight car, hardly any rust, well cared for, could be turned into a real gem.

That guy is kind of infamous, some real horror stories.

If you get your money back Rockauto doesn't require a core return, https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,brake+&+wheel+hub,power+brake+booster,1884

I've been driving through Osoyoos and Penticton and seen it hit 42C, BC has it all.

Low oil pressure readings are a consistent problem that many Z owners experience. Something like this will give you a clear idea of what your pump is doing, https://www.amazon.com/MEANLIN-MEASURE-0-100Psi-Stainless-Glycerin/dp/B08HRQKW8F/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=oil+pressure+gauge&qid=1612964155&sr=8-12-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFDMUg5QkYxUjJGTjcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzMTUxOTgyRjBHSklGUFU4UEJWJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0MjMxMjlRTDg0NzhUVE1HQjcmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl Replace the oil pressure sensor with gauge just make the the pump is working properly and give yourself some peace of mind. As for a long term solution I just finally replaced the gauge and sender with new aftermarket units.

Haven't you heard yet? Gender and sex are not the same thing anymore.

That P/S floor pan doesn't look promising and no under carriage shots, Hmmmm.

Depends on whether you want a finish that accurately depicts the finish of an original car or if you want show car bling. Other guys here could tell you more authoritatively than me but from what I have seen the way you have your parts now is pretty close to the way Nissan would have sent them to the platers. Some parts were shinier than others but I think that has more to do with the manufacturing process on a batch by batch basis. Personally I'm not going for that kind of originality, when I lift the hood I want to blind the person who is looking with SHINY so I guess I over finish them. That is another good thing about using a bench mounted wire wheel, the consistency of the finish is very uniform without that kind of patchiness.

I really liked your idea of adding the air vents to your seat fabric so I found a boat store and ordered some, thanks.

Now I want pizza. Lots of guys run the turbo pump with no problems but if you still have the stock oil pressure gauge don't expect to see the needle indicate more pressure, those gauges were never very accurate to begin with. If you mount a pressure gauge right to the side of the engine block where the pressure sensor goes you will get a much better idea of what the pump is doing.

I have always faced the metal side to the exhaust manifold because the head has coolant running through it and the manifold doesn't. You might want to take a coarse file to the mating surface on the exhaust manifold to make sure that all rust and carbon deposits have been removed and the surface is flat, those 2 exhaust leaks on cylinder #5 and #6 show that something is off.

What @jfa.series1, says, I use a coarse wire wheel to remove everything down to clean metal, by that time the piece looks pretty good and for bolts that's as far as I go. For showy pieces after the coarse wheel I switch to a fine wire wheel and everything comes up gleaming. It all comes back looking like treasure.

Is that right? Well it's about time, even a rusted head is pretty easy to remove.

Henry Ford started using the Roberson headed screw in his model T and wanted exclusive rights to it but Roberson refused to have his name removed from the design so Ford went back to the Philips. The Roberson headed screw is superior in many ways but you will only find it in common use in Canada. Egos.

Never reuse a HG unless it is one of the steel aftermarket HG's.

That's not surface rust when you can see inside of the of the engine bay frame rail, definitely structural. But nice car over all, good weekend driver.