grannyknot

Although I mentioned politics that is not really what I'm talking about, I hope you would agree that the citizens of the US are much more important than any Government. Just hoping you guys can get a break and a chance to focus not on politics but on things that are important, your own families health and well being. I should not have used the word congratulations, that does imply a preference for one party over the other and I apologize for that. Best wishes for all is what I'm trying to say.

After replacing all bearings and seals I set the Diff up as best I could for backlash and then took it it up to a Diff specialist that I have used a few times before, they got wipe pattern set perfectly.

To all our American friends I just want to extend (edit) my best wishes, here's hoping the next 4 yrs in politics are pleasantly boring and average. Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness to each and every one of you.

Some plating companies will do everything for you, clean, buff and plate but it's a much safer bet to prep everything before you send it to them for plating. The plating layer is very thin and hides nothing so for the best results clean and buff your pieces before you send them. A bench mounted wire wheel makes fast work of everything except for the heaviest rust.

I thought that looked familiar, I recognized my outdoor work bench.

Ha! That state is so bloody big it has it's own climate regions? Ashamed to say I have a Hollywood movie image of dusty cattle ranches when I think of TX. Thanks for the insight.

I believe OEM was yellow zinc plating or cadmium, I have done black paint on them in the past but it really doesn't look right. Most zinc platers can replate them for you although you will probably have to fold them in half.

Well don't leave it in primer, that will eventually rust. Ah, just noticed you are in TX. maybe it won't rust then but it should really have more protection than just primmer. I've done black and body colour and both look good but black probably gives it more depth and definition.

I don`t have a pic but the seal is installed so the flap leans over to the outside of the door.

I was looking over the ebay ad last night and noticed the "unrestored" description, so I thought I would feel the guy out, I asked him how he could call the car unrestored with the floor pans replaced, a second paint job, new seat covers and a dash cap. I also asked wasn't he afraid of litigation from an unsuspecting buyer, Here is his reply, Lol... ok I’ve only sold 100 of these cars on eBay to happy buyers all over the world with 100% feedback... but you could be right... or ... regular maintenance and upkeep on a 50 year old car which is fully described is normal and NOT what real collectors think is restoration... but yea thanks for the advice... litigation 🤦🏻‍♂️😂 ... -harmony01

The origin story, had forgot all about that thread. I did check out FatCat but for some reason bought the Koni's bump stops instead, they are still on the car and working well.

Beautiful, so much nicer to have clean metal to work with.

The brake & gas lines are done, I widened the exhaust pipe hole in the rear cross member and the Ermish Racing exhaust pipes arrived as well as the DBX Flowmaster muffler. I bought the DBX separately because I've used them before and I think they have richer sound than the Super HP that Ermish sells. I was ordering a few more rubber parts from http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-510-parts.html that I missed on my first order and notice the Roll Center Adjusters/ Bump Steer Spacers they sell, they're $35 per set! That's a 1/3rd the price of everyone else, I ordered a set and they are quality pieces, 10.9 grade bolts and they fit perfectly. So there is no more avoiding it, time to put the mask and ear protection on and start making a mess.

They are great, when you go over train tracks too fast with the hard poly bump stops it's a bone jarring experience, the urethane foam bump stops are much more forgiving as they engage sooner and compress a little more. I have them on all four corners and love them.

Don't forget that all that Democrat pedophilic cannibalism happens in the basements of pizza shops, without that detail it looses all credibility.

Exactly, perhaps the heat shield vibrating where a bolt is missing, a bolt or washer that isn't fully tightened. A loose clamp on the exhaust pipe or a loose nut in the pocket where the header pipes meet.

To his credit TonyD is a smart guy and has a lot of experience to offer, but it's like that phase they use on kids report cards, "Doesn't play well with others"

HybridZ is very different now, polite even. Once TonyD stopped posting things changed quickly.

I can't see the pic you posted as it is all black on my screen but going from a gas gauge I have on the shelf, it only has 3 wires in a 4 wire connector. 2 of those wires are to the fuel level sender, the other is a ground. 2 Yes you should chip off all the undercoating and the screws should be underneath. 3 All depends on how original you want to be, hex bolt is easier to remove than a rusty Phillips screw 4 Same as above, SS will do the job. 5 http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Boots/boots.html

Nice work if you can get it, hard to find something more enjoyable than reassembling a fresh Z. I would pay for my own flight but I would probably be looking at a big fine when I came back across the border. Covid criminal. Hope you find someone close by to help you, maybe post some pics when you get her back on the road?

Those look like Zedd Findings floor pans to me, you would need to remove all that seam sealer to find out what kind of a job was done. An older re-spray for sure, a new dash cap, original seats with new seat covers, lots of potential to be a very nice car but not $30,000 the way it is.

Name me a brand that doesn't have major problems? Ford, Chev, Nissan, they all have pros and cons, none of them seem to be any better than the other. I only stick with Ford trucks because I know their quirks, for me replacing a coil once a year is a minor inconvenience on a truck that otherwise is reliable.

That's quotable. Yeah, mine is a Ford, misfires are just part of owning a Ford That reminds me of "I'm not racist, I hate all people equally.

They stole the keys? That's just vindictive.

You would want to raise the P/S coil up towards the top of the shock so it looks like the D/S, the proper collar tool is nice to have but in a pinch you could use a piece of aluminum rod and a hammer. The bottom collar is the locking nut so once the top collar is adjusted properly you'll need to hold it where it is when you tighten the bottom one. Clean any grease off of the mating surfaces of the two collars, that will help with the grip.