grannyknot

I was just about to say that😄 You're right, the juvenile snipping that goes on in many other forums can get awfully tiresome and that is one of the great things about this forum. It's our little corner of the internet where you can let your guard down. The #7 cylinder on my truck throws a misfire code at least once a year and I know it has eaten another coil, I keep a new coil on the shelf all the time for when it happens. No idea why it's only #7, the threads are clean, all the plug wires fairly new.

The rear sway bar doesn't mount to the body so could they be referring to the front sway bar? Quite often the front sway bar will actually hit the body frame rail when in full compression unless you include a 1/16-1/8" spacer above the bushing.

New female/female bullet connectors are one of those difficult things to find, Vintage Connections is a great source but you could also try, http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html He has some great old style connectors and is a good seller to deal with. Although not Nissan looking these are still retro looking, scroll halfway down the page. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Bullet_Connectors/bullet_connectors.html Menage a trois?

I might be able to help you there, let me have a look through the pile. Absolutely, I have a small bag of broken ones. But they really need to be made out of stamped steel next time.

The 3rd pic down, I hope that welder has his #14 welding shade contact lenses in.

Pretty happy about that but then it was only on the road for 8-10 yrs, the other 40 yrs it has been sitting in one dry garage after another. Something that is interesting is, this rotisserie I bought was built and used once for a 240Z resto and the length is almost the same within a few inches of the bumper mounting holes for the 510. I wonder if 240's and 510's were on the same assembly line together and both using similar cradles?

Finally got the car up on the rotisserie, I had to make the mounting brackets twice because I thought the center of gravity was higher up than it really is. I'm going to bend up and install all new gas and brake lines now before the paint is done, I learned my lesson on the last car. It's not too bad underneath, mostly it just needs to be taken down to bare steel again, I can raise the rotisserie a few more inches to clear the roof if I need to but this position with the rain gutter touching the floor gives the whole thing a firmer feel to work on.

OR, you sell that engine a drop a bigger one in. No I never did, that was 4 engines ago.

Ahh! you've jogged the old memory banks and I do remember a longer duration cam was the other option for trying to solve the ping problem but the cost of the Kameari HG was less than the cost of a new cam, new lash pads and reconditioned rockers. Thanks

The F54 block/N42 head L28 engine I use to own had a compression ratio of 10.5:1 The head had been ported, polished and decked. The engine was carburated and no matter what I did I could not get rid of a bad ping on acceleration even though I was running 94 octane. Eventually I had to install an expensive Kameari 2.0mm steel head gasket to bring down the comp. ratio. Now I know others run 10.5 and sometimes higher ratios and say they have no problems so I just mention this as a cautionary tale. I can't remember what the final comp. ratio ended up at but that .08mm extra solved the ping problem and the engine felt no less powerful than it did before.

http://www.timesert.com/ It is a permanent fix, you are actually replacing the threads. It also has a self locking expansion lip at the bottom, very well engineered. I'm sure there must be some youtube videos of them. A Helicoil is better than nothing but it's a temporary fix because they are so easy to dislodge.

Multiple choice question. 1. a football game 2. a hockey game 3. the floor of the US Senate

I would suggest becoming a member of a couple of local classic car or hot rod forums, those guys will know who the trusted body shops in Montreal are.

Yes, it was trucked to the Port of Montreal then loaded on a cargo ship to Dubai, any Idea what they are asking for it? I'm sure it will be twice what they paid me.

The price we pay for a beautiful design.

A Helicoil insert will do the job quick and easy, the torque spec I think is about 6lbs so not a lot, using a Time-sert is a better more permanent fix but will cost a little more. Using either of those methods means removing the oil pan to do the drilling or drilling through the pan lip and using a larger washer then stock.

I love the fact that your restoring your dash on the 60th floor of an office tower, the shell looks to be in great shape. Looking forward to the next set pics. Would you mind posting where you found those LED rings for your gauges? I sold my 77/280z to a dealer in Dubai last year, I think they still have it on the floor, https://www.tominiclassics.com/featcar/datsun-280z/

After reading this thread a couple of days ago I had a look on kijiji to see what was for sale at the moment, found a Lincoln 4 ton air/hydraulic jack for $80 He even delivered it to my door. He says it is bleeding air so I guess it's time for a rebuild, they still sell seal kits for these jacks. The base is 50" long which WAY too big for my little shop, I plan to get it working and put it back on kijiji.

That is the weasel that as soon as he received the strut bars filed a claim with paypal trying to get the cost of the shipping back. He lost of course.

Sorry, I said push it forward but I meant pull it back so it slides under the access door.

You may have to unscrew the fuse box from its mounting spot and push it forward to make some clearance, once to console and radio are installed it won't move around.

Glad to say I was wrong, that is a good price.

I did that same rear brake swap about 7 yrs ago and those curved parking brake brackets were very hard to source then, you may have to make them.

Maybe the weep hole in the water pump?

I was doing some cleaning of the dash switches today and stumbled upon fiber optics, from the 70's. I had no idea. These are the headlight and wiper/washer switches, the aluminum cylinder is the light box, I only noticed it because the knobs were off and the headlights were on. It would have to be the darkest night to see those knobs illuminated so maybe I'll pop a bright LED in there and wake them up.