grannyknot

Thanks for the code, just stocked up on a bunch of things.

Wow, that is some beautiful restoration work and just few nice personal touches.

An illegal parts car? What's the penalty for that?

That may still change, espadaguy has made a suggestion about resolving Reserve Not Met auctions that sounds very promising.

I've never done a whole quarter panel yet either so I understand your hesitance, maybe some bracing is needed in the door and hatch space.

Someone got it for $9,300 What a deal!

They do have a wax spray but that's not it. You'll need a minimum of 4 cans to do the car properly, I wish I had bought 6, it is very thin and sprays out so fast that the can will be empty before you know it. It pays to do a few practice runs.

Looks like it needs floor pans, only 7 min. left and still at $9,300

I've used a pressure washer a few times to clean out blocks, it works very well on getting the muck out. Make sure you have some kind of face shield when doing it, rusty sand in the Cornea is no fun.

You know what you have to do, if you mud up that original quarter again it will just gnaw away at you. The black quarter in the second pic looks like the better of the two replacements. It's always interesting to find out what has been hidden.

Nothing to worry about, they all look like that. If the trans is separated from the engine the best way is to haul it outside on a warm day and scrub down multiple times with a strong degreaser and a garden hose. I'm not sure JB Weld will stand up to that kind of pressure without cracking. On sloppy fitting drain and fill plugs you can use pop can aluminum as shim stock, cut 1/2" strips off of a pop or beer can and wrap it around square end of your breaker bar, 2-3 winds should do it then tap the 1/2" drive into the drain plug. MAP gas in the yellow bottle burns hotter than Propane (blue bottle).

Tom

I think I paid $100 for that 6'x6' piece of insulation from a automotive interior shop. Don't forget the doors, try and cover as much of the door skin as possible, it's like a snare drum in there.

That's what I've found but I'm sure not everyone agrees. When I'm driving the Z it is usually on the Hwy so I tried to minimize the road noise as much as possible. Inside the cab the first layer on top of the primer was a Lizard skin type coating of micro spheres or glass balloons in a paint base, then the Dynamat, then dense automotive insulation and finally the carpets. It is not modern car quiet but it's pretty good, yes the car is 50-60lbs heavier than it was but I have some extra HP under the hood to compensate. The 240 was designed as a sports car so minimal creature comforts, I went more for a Grand Tourer.

He's a Jockey man, that explains so much.

I don't know if it is compelling or not, the tar mat that nissan put on the large flat areas of sheet metal was to stop the metal from vibrating at most if not all frequencies. The Dynamat type mat does that but also works as an insulator to baffle sound and the foil layer helps keep heat out of the cab. For instance the firewall inside the cab, Nissan used fiberglass insulation covered with tar impregnated fiber card and it only went up so high. If you remove all that and cover the firewall and up behind the dash with Dynamat you'll notice how much quieter it is and the foil is helping with heat from the engine. Trying to make a 240z quiet inside is a thankless job but you can certainly knock it down a bit by planning out your layers.

I was assuming that was the race that was cracked. Yes you could use old inner bearing and race with new outer bearing and race but you don't want to keep it like that for very long. Every time you take that inner bearing and race out there is the chance of twisting, scratching or damaging them in some way besides the fact that they are old and probably worn out. Considering how inexpensive those bearings are you might want to cut your loses and pitch them in the bin, get yourself a different set from another supplier. FSM says to torque that nut for a reason, it's to make sure that the inner bearing and both races are fully seated against the hub and bottom of the spindle, hand tightening that nut isn't going to do that. After you back off the nut then it can be finger tightened.

The rear quarter panels came in today! This is the shop that did the work, http://www.alfaparts.net/ very pleased.

You can't use an old bearing with a new race, well, you can but the bearing will fail quickly. They won't match.

Coolant plugs ?

Just to add to ZH's excellent advice, if you rub your fingers around the base of the spindle where the inner bearing sits it should be completely smooth, no irregularities. If there is remove them by lightly using a fine single cut file. Also, all that grease that is outside of the dust shield needs to be cleaned off or it might contaminate the rotor and pads.

Some guys put V8's in these things The KA24DE is a sweet little engine, 2.4L 155hp, 160lbft torque, of course it's not going to sound as nice as an L24. The engine I'm using is basically stock but with some port&polish on the head. The 510 is only about 2100lbs so it will be fun car to drive and at least keep up with Hwy traffic.

EDIT Oops, I guess I should read other peoples advice before popping in with suggestions that have already been given. Have you tried the vise method? If you have an old rad hose lying around cut out 2 pieces, they go on either vise jaw, tighten it up hard against the needle as close to the base as possible. Then you have the body of the carb as your handle so you can slowly rotate body around the shaft of the needle.

Fred Flintstone

I'm suppose to get my 2 rear quarters tomorrow, I'm pumped, we also have a bit of a snow storm coming in so who knows. I have been splicing the 510 and 240sx wiring harnesses together for a while now, I'm going to try and get the entire wiring system working properly first before I tear it down for body work. I made the top of the rad support removable which is a big help pulling and installing the engine/trans. The drive shaft came back from the shop last week after being shortened so that's the entire drive line working now. Also found a LSD R160 diff in the right ratio. The stick shift now sits a little farther back than stock which actually puts it in a more comfortable position for the driver. Still have to work the trans tunnel cover some more but the basic shape is there, with the sound deadener, insulation a carpet over top of it, it should look pretty smooth.