grannyknot

I don't think they're going to get $9K that blue 240

Good idea, better than filling you cab with smoke.

I think they only made 250 of them and who know how many are left. Shall we say a cool 2million?

Yes! I have spent hrs chasing that sound thinking my bearings were screwed, a pair of needle nosed pliers and its fixed.

@Muzez, didn't know you had an N47, you'll be fine.

They will work but the exhaust gases coming out of a square runner are going to hit the outside edges of the header plate just as you see it in your pics. That will slow down some of the exhaust gas and cause turbulence and rob you of a few HP. Depending on how thick the header plate is you may be able to grind the round opening into a squarish shape with a slope going into the header and eliminate some of the turbulence, but not all. Not ideal but it will work, you can always buy a square port header at a later time.

I'm assuming that you want to leave the T/C bracket attached to the lower floor pan rail? If so then cut the engine bay rail about a 1/2" above that seam weld holding the bracket and rail together, pull the bent rail out and then you have lots of access to the top of the T/C bracket to cut and grind off what is left on the bracket. It's nice to see you tackle this job John, you'll be driving her by next spring.

I would hazard a guess that all 4 of those pumps were made in China, the only one I wouldn't buy is the K&N, it looks like a fish tank pump.

I guess it's a project car then 😆

I never thought I would see one of these on BaT, 1957 507 coupe, this is the holy grail for BMW fans, very sweet. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1957-bmw-507-roadster/

I did the same thing last night and looked up the MSDS for Jenolite and the one I found said orthophosphoric acid. http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1496472.pdf

I would think couple of mm I would think no more than a couple mm away in order to wipe off the as much as possible. Oh I see what @heyitsrama just posted, 40 thou, Yikes! It would certainly free up some HP but not to be used on an engine that requires splash to lube moving parts.

Well this German product that I mentioned at the beginning of the other thread is what started me experimenting with citric acid in the first place. That product has citric acid suspended in a wet paste that you can apply to a vertical surface, you cover it with cling wrap to keep it from drying out and wipe it off when it has removed the rust. Now being a the cheap bugger that I am I wasn't going to pay German prices for something I could perhaps make myself in the laundry sink, I still haven't attempted it yet but I was thinking a mixture of sawdust, glycerin and citric acid power might make a paste like product to experiment with.

That is another phosphoric acid product. After it has done it's thing it has to be washed off with water, if it dries on the metal it has to be reactivated and then washed off. There's another thread going right now about the pros/cons of certain acids.

Interesting, I haven't seen that yet. Does it rub off or is it fixed to the metal? Something you mentioned earlier about the rust just falling off, yes most of the rust accumulates at the bottom of the bucket, I think that might be part of the reason why the solution keeps working for so long. I've had a bucket of solution working for up to 6 wks with it cleaning dozens of parts before it 's used up.

I've never seen an oil scraper made for an L28 engine before so thought I would post it. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-engine-parts/markham-york-region/280z-crank-scraper/1537652171

My main beef with phosphoric acid is not one of safety but with the active rust that is still under that layer of black iron phosphate, eventually it pushes back up and bubbles the paint. For me I've found it's just easier to keep working the piece until it's down to bare metal.

An aggressive wire wheel is what I would start with, also 3M makes a paint/rust stripping disc that works well too.

By political affiliation 😉

So far it's the best way I have found for a number of reasons, the industrial powder is cheap, like $2 per lb. It doesn't smell, it doesn't burn you when you get some on your skin, I have found it doesn't flash rusts as quickly the way other acids do. It's also very easy to dispose of. I'll have to try some salt with it.

Back in the summer there was a thread about a German product, a paste made of Citric acid and sawdust. I can't find it at the moment but I have been playing around with Citric acid for a couple months now and it has become my go to rust remover. I have found all the other acid rust removers have some drawbacks to them but Citric has the fewest so far. It is very inexpensive especially the industrial grade, I didn't want to purchase 50lbs until I knew it was worth it so bought 10lbs of food grade. 2 cups of dried powder in about a gallon of water makes a strong solution. Your results may vary depending on the hardness of your water but it should be easy to repeat these results. The test piece is from the KA24DE engine I'm using in the 510, 2 cups of Citric acid in a gallon of water, all I did was scrape the worst of the flaky rust off. The shop is cold, just above freezing, when the water is room temp in the summer rust removal happens a lot faster. If you splash some on your skin you just rinse it off, there is no drama, no burns. These next 2 pics are after 20hrs soaking, took it out of the bucket and scrubbed it with an old wire brush and rinsed. The last 2 pics are after an additional 24hrs. Now that might seem like a long time but I have lots of that so I'm good. Muriatic acid is 10x faster for sure but I have never found a way to completely neutralize it, the rust always comes back under the paint, so far that has hasn't happened with the Citric acid pieces.

Thanks Mike, I just ordered a strip to try it out.

Now that I kind of like

Too bad about the sunroof but at least it looks like it's one of the better quality jobs.

OMFG, where do you find things? I just don't know what to say