grannyknot

What you are pointing to is the inside rocker panel, this is what you are looking for, they come in left or right. https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/inner-rocker-left-side-datsun-240z/

@One Way, I think I have a unicorn you might be interested in. Back when I had my 280z it was missing the D/S hood vent drip pan so when I was at our local Z clubs swapmeet I picked up a pan for my car. When I got it home I could not figure out how to mount it, it wouldn't fit, it was then that I realized that some clever guy had made an identical pan for the passenger side. Here it is, it's very well done. It is useless to me as I don't own that car anymore, it's all yours for the price of shipping.

Another good question, the only leak I have in the fuel system is an air breather hole, very small that I drilled in the gas cap to equalize pressure. Now that you have mentioned it I think I will take a razor blade and cut a small slit in the wrap right at the top of the gas filler door. Thanks

Well I don't have electrical power out near the storage tent so basically I did exactly what GI Joe is doing only the flame is smaller. In the pic you can see the blue flame in the bottom right corner, I kept the flame 6-7" away and always keep the flame moving. With an electric heat gun you have great control and can chase or push the wrinkles away as the wrap shrinks, the torch doesn't have that directional control so it takes a little longer. Once the wrap is tight against the paint you don't go back there, I only used it on the baggy areas.

This forum is probably one of the few where you could have an oil discussion without it ending up as a flame war. I thought the "synthetic vs dinosaur oil in old engines" debate had been resolved years ago. There are some guys who used the first formulations of synthetic oils and had there engines leak still claiming that it's bad for old engines but I think the general consensus of car guys agree that was only the case with the first synthetic oils. At least that seems to be the case in the forums on bobistheoilguy. I've been a lurker on that site for a few years and it's quite something to see the sheer volume that has been written about oil.

That's a good question, this wrap is used for a wide variety products from boats to industrial equipment. I guess I'll find out in the spring, my paint isn't great to begin with but I'll post up some pics when I peel the wrap off. I'm pretty confident that if there is anything it will come off with a good wax job. Here is their website, https://dr-shrink.com/ Exactly what I was thinking, that's why I didn't finish the shrink job, there's no wind in the tent once it is closed up.

Sunlight coming through the trees.

When I have a winter project planned in the garage my poor Z has to spend the winter in the storage tent, I don't like doing in because of all the dust and mice. So this year I bought a big roll of the white shrink wrap that they use for winterizing boats and now she's all snug for the winter. I could have worked all the wrinkles out but I didn't see any reason.

That's what 131,000 miles will do.😏

But then there is the other school of thought that says buying a $30 unit is better because if you fry it it's no great loss. I have a couple cheap units as well as a Fluke 177. I use the Fluke mostly for ohms testing/measuring.

Poor guy, he didn't get enough attention when he was young.

Exactly what I thought, that's why I used electrical tape but thinking about it now I like @ETI4K suggestion of hard nylon washers, by using that method there is an air gap so water can't get trapped behind layers.

I have a working Koito headlight on the shelf. Maybe I'll submit it to BaT😀

A couple of interesting comments after the auction ended,

^ This

I tried to do most of my repairs through the shelf panel that the chimney attaches to, going in from the top entails a crazy amount of spotwelds to remove. That seam on the firewall although it has easy access is a challenge because it is so visible, I have never had to repair that area so I'm not sure of the best way to tackle it.

That battery area can be tricky for sure but you're going about it in the right way, have you checked the fresh air chimney just north of where you are working? It is an area that gathers leaves and is very prone to rust. I like that Lisle spot weld chisel, looks like you would get a cleaner cut but it's hard to beat an air hammer chisel for speed with multiple spot welds.

It looks great, where are you with the tune, is it running nicely yet?

When I was 14 she was 16, my older woman crush.

I just used a strip of black electrical tape trimmed so it wasn't visible, could not stand the thought of putting bare metal on the paint I worked so hard on. The rubber seals are pinched against the door handle 99% of the time so I just snipped the thinnest part of it, removed it and cleaned them and put them back on, it's 4-5 yrs and they are still on there.

My only reason for watching that show after school was Susan Dey.

Perhaps when the FSM was issued Nissan wasn't thinking about 50 yrs in the future with its recommendation of a retorque. With an engine that has been sitting for 30 yrs there is the distinct possibility of rust forming on the head bolt threads. Retorquing on a realitivly fresh engine wouldn't bother me at all but I sure wouldn't want to do that on an old engine, they are set in their ways so to speak.

I think that same guy worked on my Z's as well.

Yup, it is just soft aluminum plate.

And one more version,