grannyknot

Hard to believe that was considered classy at one time, I remember going to the Van O rama cars shows at the Vancouver Coliseum and there would be hundreds of equally classy vans with murals on the sides.

Yeah, that yellow paint sure looks pretty fresh doesn't it.

There is some very good reading here, https://www.autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=f044bf1f351a02abe241234902095df9

We are such trusting souls here Well the 240 doesn't look too bad at all, very straight forward.👍

The floor pans look like the ones Zedd Findings makes and sells, also the foot well part of the fire wall looks like it has been patched. Do you know why the transmission stick shift hole has been welded up? I'm going to bet there is quite a bit more rust there than you think, there is telltale signs all over the interior.

I've done the same thing on my car during the summer, the engine coolant when at full temp will transfer that heat to the heater core and that radiates into the cab. Although I would not be surprised if the heater valve leaked as well. BaT always says "shows" unless the seller has rock solid documentation of the mileage. That pristine drivers seat says 31,000 miles. I'm not saying the car is this or that but with the price going higher and higher it is just a matter of time before cars that have been doctored start showing up.

Oooooow, that's some serious rust porn, are you thinking about supporting the car on a frame jig to make sure nothing shifts while doing the repairs?

I guess that depends on how original you want your car to be after it is done. If it were me I would remove the PO's coating on the floors as you can see rust bleeding through in many places which means it wasn't prepped properly, take it down to bare metal first to find out what you have to work with.

Just snip that connector off and crimp on new bullet connectors.

Oh how I wish I had never sold my March/70 240Z now. The car has only been up for one day and already the BaT egos are in full swing. Beautiful car, love the original paint.

Back when I had bmw cars I had to install hub-centric rings a few times when mixing wheels that weren't original, it was a bit of a pain but those wheels ran true. I'm not implying that stud-centric wheels can't also run true but personally if I had the option I would go with the rings. It might just be a feel good thing but I can't help thinking it is a more accurate system.

I've done that install and removal many times with no problem, just be sure to tighten the nut on the rear manifold stud so the chain or bracket is snug up against the cylinder head. That spreads the load out into the head and keeps the threads from being damaged.

I'm probably not going to see them until January, they said as soon as the lock down happened theirs orders skyrocketed.

There is also these guys in Quebec, http://www.alfaparts.net/dat280.html. They make each panel by hand, English wheel, bead roller and hammer/dolly. They are making two rear quarter panels for my 510 right now.

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That depends on what your definition of success is. If you wrap the engine well you can get away with it but in order to clean and prep the surface for new paint you really need to pull everything off.

I think I would go for the Maltese Falcon.

At least Dr. Fauci is safe, they won't let him in the WH anymore because he has this nasty habit of telling the truth.

Do you mean the electric actuator that controls the throttle opening and closing? The one I'm using opens and closes 6 TBs

Body colour, domestic cars had black engine bays.

What lathe are you using?

Hopefully he brings them to the show and slides them in, at the end of the day puts them back in the hatch.

I have a couple of used parking brake cables handy, the 240z cable is 74.5" long, the 280z cable is 76" long.

You may have to split the difference, your pic in post #3 distinctly shows the center of the bumper is off to the driver's side.

What are the specs, what kind of air can it move?