grannyknot

Or, it could just be another lie, welcome to the October surprise.

You can also raise the back end of the car, that will make the angle of the engine/trans less and therefore easier.

We all do stuff like that, some admit it, some don't.

Like many Z restorations your panels will be much better fitted than they were when they rolled out the factory, you have the luxury of time that the assembly workers didn't. If you need to install a couple of shim washers on the bottom of the front fender to keep it inline then do it before the final paint.

Especially if you weld them into place when they are just right.

Red.

Wouldn't they just cause a little more drag so it would require more effort to get it up to torque but the torque would be the same?

3 votes for no locktite, the nuts are $10 a piece, splurge.

I haven't found good ones yet, I've bought several sets over the years and they are usually stiff plastic that don't seal at the bottom. It's a part that is ripe for reproduction.

Removing the older peened axle nut destroys the top 3-4 threads of the axle shaft, if you use a thin cutoff wheel with a Dremel and slice off the peened area before removing the nut the threads will survive.

The factory probably used the same jig for welding up L & R struts so the perch would be same on both, perhaps.

Damn, that's beautiful car. What Patcon says^ the hood looks like the front side lip might be bent a bit but the reflections are still straight so it doesn't look like it was kinked. Any good chrome shop can fix that bumper.

On the front it doesn't matter because the hat spins and will always settle in the right place, the rear I can't picture in my head at the moment but the hat can mount three different positions so one of them has to work.

What you are calling the washer is actually the crush washer or seal, the washer that your reading about would go between the spring and the cup that screws into the pump housing. Find a small washer the same diameter as the spring and place it in the cup that the spring sits in, put the spring in place and put everything back together. Now that the spring is being compressed more than it was the oil won't get through the bypass valve as easily. The mechanical gauge will give you a much more accurate reading on what the pressure is, if the pressure is still low with the new pump then as ZH says, the next thing to check is the main bearings and conrod bearings for wear. The amount of oil your getting while cranking the starter is good, the head looks very clean, maybe some work was done on it recently?

I've had a lot of plating done but all by one guy up here in Toronto, rubber doesn't seem to be affected at all from the process but I'm not sure I would subject brake hoses to it just out of abundance of caution. The damage to the plastic is based on the amount of time it stays immersed in the acid bath, if the metal is badly rusted it needs to stay in the bath longer and the plastic pays for it. The best way I have found is to remove as much of the rust as possible from anything with plastic on it so the piece needs the shortest amount of time in the bath.

That's a clever trick, I'll have to remember that one. The mount looks like it will work perfectly. Sure, it's called the R/T mount, https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html? But if you want to remain original all you have to do is eliminate the space between the top of the diff housing and the bottom of the arrestor strap. The last time I did it I used two layers of some old rubber conveyor belt I had on hand, it is only about a 1/2" gap so when you raise the diff into place the arrestor strap is snug against the spacer and there is no room for the diff to jump up and make that clunk.

That's a good idea, once it dries it gets everywhere.

Those trumpets, very cool.

You need to warm up the new cover so it will stretch a bit, a hair dryer will work.

Even in stock configuration with no mods the Z's gas tank placement makes a Pinto seem like a Volvo. But you're right about the brake kits, a lot of variables going on there.

@Jarvo2, Dave, I mailed it this morning, should be 7-10 days. It was only $3.00 so don't worry about it. Cheers

Welcome to the forum, well you should keep the original engine/4spd regardless of what you do. You or the next owner may decide to go back to bone stock and you can't do that without the numbers matching engine. The 280ZXT is a potent engine and the 5th gear is much nicer for Hwy driving but it might be worth your while to get the car running with the 2.4L engine and see how that feels to you. It 's a fairly high revving engine and lots of fun to wind it up and with the car being so light it is a well matched package.

At least it's not a shag carpet.

That cover really protects the grease seal on the inner wheel bearing from grit or sand that may find its way into the drum , if the seal fails it also will protect the drums from grease for a while. I have a few of those gathering dust, I'll send you one if you pay for the shipping.

It might be time for a new oil pump, it's a pretty easy job to do, drop the sway bar down from the rail mounts and you have access to the 4 bolts holding the pump on. 8psi at idle is the lowest you would ever want to see, I'm sure there are engines that function on less but why risk it. The engine looks great.