grannyknot

Ooo, that's a nice kit, I wonder if they would make me up one for the 510.

That would be terrific if this happened, any idea what their minimum run would have to be?

Welcome to the forum, very nice find, it appears to be in excellent shape. Have fun.

As usual, stunning.

Beautiful!

http://www.alfaparts.net/dat280.html His Datsun panel selection is still small but he plans on offering more. Not great photos on his site but the detail looks crisper than Tabco products.

The few times I have done it I align the outside sleeve of the bushing with the control arm housing, that leaves the inside sleeve sticking into the middle a bit where the strut mount fits into. You can leave more room on the inside for an easier install since tightening the 2 outside nuts will force the bushings to end up exactly where they need to be anyway. It can be tricky getting everything to line up but resist the urge to hammer the pin through with anything harder than a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer, the threads on those pins are very soft.

I should have been more specific, I use these cheap throw away body filler spreaders, very flexible.

The purple stuff works great because it is Lye based but will definitely dull the paint, Simple Green is milder so will take longer but works. I would use a plastic scraper to get the worst off then some diluted Simple Green and an old tooth brush, after everything is clean and dry you can hand buff with compound/polish to bring the shiny back. The more stuff you can remove or pull away from the metal the better it will look.

I just went out and checked my 240 and the door tag numbers are 4mm but if you are going to stamp the numbers yourself you will have to make up a jig so all the numbers have the right spacing and alignment, free hand won't work.

For the 280z tag the numbers front size is 6mm.

I bought a couple of plates from Zeddsaver and the holes weren't punched in the right place, had to elongate the holes with file Banzai's are as accurate as you are going to get.

It might just be that the two wiper spindles on the linkage just need to be taken apart, cleaned and greased.

I have one NOS rubber Mustache bushing and have been looking for a twin for yrs, no luck so far.

Bill, your situation sounds just like mine 20 yrs ago and over the yrs I incrementally upped my equipment until I now have what you see in the pics. I wish I had just bought this system 20 yrs ago, the compressor I picked up on craigslist for $500, the A/C condensor is from a mid 90's Honda new for $40. Just remember you can never have too many cfm's and the air must stay as cool and dry as possible, especially for sand blasting.

On the door, as Patcon says, 2 locking positions, it looks like only the first is engaging. If the door seal is new you may have to slam the door to get it to close then park it out in the sun and let it get hot. It's unheard of today to have to slam a car door, in the 70's, not uncomom, hopefully the suns heat will loosen up the seal. The hatch, is there a possibility the captive nuts or bolts for the hatch hinges are stripping the threads or maybe some grease got between the hinge and roof flange? A properly torqued hinge bolt should easily resist the pressure from a seal.

Nice unit, treat yourself again to some of this, https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AIYU148?tag=duc12-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1 This stuff is remarkable, lots of shops use nothing else, Meguiar's Ultimate compound is a watered down version of this compound. So where did you get the engine bay tag?

I put mine down on the driver footwell, this one is the Ford switch, it doesn't trip unless there is a major upset. I have only triggered it once going over some train tracks driving way too fast.

This really is the best way although it is more work, even with cutting off the staked portion of the nut with a Dremel some damage to the last couple of threads on the stud axle is inevitable.

Could be a bad shock.

That would be an M6x1

That one looks to be in excellent condition, I would say it has had an easy life so far.

How about using a starter and flywheel to break it loose?

Could be a good core to have on hand.

If you do decide to remove anything just keep somewhere safe and label it, at some point in the future the next owner will appreciate it.