grannyknot

Here is the KA24DE throttle body, 60 mm at the butterfly.

Agreed, that's why we hang onto our quick, nimble, pretty uncomplicated Z's, who needs new?

I hope the second pic is before? What grit did you start with?

Yes, and the firing order for L series engines as far as I know.

Welcome to the forum Cooper, nice find, your Z appears to be in pretty decent shape. They are easy cars to work on and any problem you may run into someone on this forum will have the answer for you. I love those wheels, they are certainly period correct aftermarket.

I can't wait to sit in them, drive in them.

Thanks, I do but it is being held for one of the OntZcar members.

I use 0000 extra fine steel wool using a quick light stroke, it won't give you a mirror finish but a bright glow, perfect surface for clear coat.

How do you when it's enough?

Hat is off to you sir, you are doing us a great service, thank you.

They are not bad but they tend change the balance so the front is doing most of the braking and the rear drums are hardly doing anything. If you install the Maxima calipers on the rear with some sticky street pads it is a better balance but the nose of the car will still drive down in hard braking.

So all the conclusions I made in the last post on May 16th are all wrong, air is not a good substitute for brake fluid when testing The Wilwood prop valve acted exactly as you would assume it would with each turn cutting off a bit more pressure until the minimum was reached. - the first configuration was 15/16" MC straight through to the calipers with NO prop valve and I assume no vacuum booster assist as the engine was not running. 1200 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the second configuration was with the stock 240z prop valve installed, 600 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the third was with the Wilwood 260-12627 prop valve installed and the stock prop valve removed, you’ll notice that with the Wilwood prop valve installed with the valve wide open there is a 100 psi decrease in the total pressure down to 1100 psi from 1200 in the 1st video. wide open, 1100psi 1 turn closed, 1050psi 2 turns 950psi 3 turns 950psi 4 turns 875psi 5 turns 750psi 6 turns 750psi 7 turns 650psi 8 turns 600psi 9 turns 600psi 10 turns 575psi 10.5 turns 575psi I took it out for a run with the prop valve turned all the way closed to 575psi and I that’s just about right. I made some videos of the 3 tests and they are here if interested, https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131534-wilwood-proportioning-valve/?tab=comments#comment-1221616 With the brakes mostly sorted and I should mention the braking action is fantastic, 2-3x better than the Toyota/Maxima combo, I started working on the fault codes? There are a few ghost codes for things the ECU doesn't control anymore and will get a round to scrubbing those off but the Bank 1 O2 sensor is reading bad but it's brand new. I'm going to install the used O2 sensor the engine came with to see if that makes a difference and the engine keeps wanting to stall when I come to a stop, that's only real problem at the moment. My on-going hunt for more power is now over, the few times I have stepped on it, it has scared the crap out of me, the acceleration is insane in a car this light. Love it. First pic, just a little hint of what's under the hood. .

From what I have read on the BMW forums those guys came to the same conclusion, pretty but less power than the stock air box.

It has been about 2 yrs since I bought from them and I don't remember receiving Precision wrapping bags on the individual items but I might be wrong. Everything I did get fit perfectly. I have purchased multiple items straight from Precision in the past and the only thing of theirs I found to be poor quality was the 240z main door seals but that flaw was fixed 4-5 yrs ago because so many people complained.

I agree but I did get to drive an M3 with paddle shifters and I was blown away how good they feel and fast you can shift.

Your not afraid one hot July day that the tar adhesive will let go and sag the headliner.

Me too, do you also have the scars from the razor sharp spring steel? The bag I store it in is covered in dried blood. CO, that looks like a good winter lathe project.

That looks like big money restoration, right down to paint markings and labels, impressive work.

Your lucky the metal wheel lips were still there under those flares, usually it's all been cut away. Yes, the exhaust note was beautiful on the dyno.

Whoa, I guess I would go with repairing B, a plate made out of 14ga welded on to span the central rust pitted area with holes cut out for plug welding and also for the steering rack hold downs.

There is a Kawasaki Ujoint that I think @Patcon pioneered.

This is the only pic I can find of the replacement box I had to make, your description is spot on. I drilled a few holes in the side rail so when I bent it back up I could plug weld it in place.

Glad you caught it, that could ruin your whole day. PO's are one of the reasons I completely dismantle every old car I buy before it gets on the road.

Same here, then I forget I already have them and buy them a second time.

Welcome, as long as the engine is in fairly good condition then you shouldn't have any problem making it reliable, it's a simple engine, easy to work on and tough as nails. All parts for the engine are available as well as quite a few upgrades to coax a little more power out of it. I'm excited to see what is under all that dust.