grannyknot

You have a good point, it's just unfortunate that Kustom Fab used that clown to endorse their otherwise good product. I'm looking forward to ordering some of their panels.

A friend bought this 280z recently from a guy in Georgia and the temp gauge is too low by my thinking after a hard drive, I'm guessing PO put a 160*F thermostat in. My local Nissan dealer won't order in a thermostat but I found a Stant 195*F , wondering if it is worth a try? I thought I had a spare 180* but can't put my hands on it. Thanks

But a lot of the distributors also sell it as part of their garage or autoparts business so the emphasis on getting more distributors working under you is not a priority. Technically I'm a distributor but I only use to get a discount for me and friends.

Excellent oil for sure, the objections to Amsoil are mostly based around how they sell the product, kind of an Amway model. I do see it being sold in some stores now, glad everything worked out for you.

Maybe it's because I'm local with cash in my hand.

Until I read the last few posts I had forgotten that my 1970 240z HLS30-01955 for 46 yrs has the VIN of HLS30U01955 The correct VIN was stamped in the usual 3 places on the car but it was registered with the U inserted in the same place as @Datsunbat. The car went through 5-6 owners in Ontario and no one noticed, not even the M.O.T. It was only when I sold the car to guy in California that the transport company noticed it. They told me it had to be corrected before the car got to the border or it would be held in an impound lot until it was. I had to hire a certified appraiser to come and examine the car and send his documents to MOT before they would issue me new ownership papers.

You know guys Whiteheads in Toronto is very competitive on pricing, there is nothing they can't get and you don't get raped with the border scam.

Do you have a set of plans or are just going to wing it?

I ended up needing 3 separate water temp sensors, one for the ECU in the stock position, one for the Speedhut water temp gauge and another one for the electric radiator fan controller. So I had to get creative finding a spot for them, made the plugs for the sensors with some 80 grit paper, crude but it works and won't be visible anyway. I got the air box funnel back from Ben, some day when I grow up I want to weld just like him.? Worked out the location for the oil cooler and try as I might I could not have the drive by wire throttle removed from the ECU. If I had gone with a stand alone system I could have used a steel cable, so I'm stuck with it. Everyone says it has a very good feel to it, I hope so.

Similar to others, cut off the plugs, welded shut and and ground down all of the metal inside of the runner that was obstructing the exhaust flow.

Ok then, I saw the P30 prefex and thought it might be of worth to someone.

Hey guys, I haven't been following this thread but I saw an ad on kijiji today that caught my eye and thought someone here might be interested. Not my ad, don't know the guy. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-other/oakville-halton-region/datsun-2820-zx-front-bilstein-shocks-p30-069/1489888624?undefined

Don't hold your breath, on second thought that might be a good idea.

So I guess this is the end to this thread, the 280 is in Dubai now and up for sale at Tomini Classics. I would love to know what they are asking for it but it says the price is TBA, I guess they want you in the showroom before they hit you with it. https://www.tominiclassics.com/featcar/datsun-280z/

OK Boomer

This temp sensor is from an early 72, it is M16x1.5, straight threads no taper.

Beautiful job on those runners, that's going to be the E31 everyone dreams about.

That's the test I go by when I have done major surgery on a car, do the doors still close nicely, panel gaps. I did all my seam stitch welding with the car on the rotisserie with no problems, but I did jump around every 5-6 stitches to a different area while that one cooled off.

You can replace them with the car on the ground or on a rotisserie, rotisserie is easier. I like to leave the front support for the seats in place as well as the transmission mount. Be sure to do just one side at a time. When the car is a real piece of Swiss cheese then you may want to weld in some braces but lot of us have done the floors with no more bracing than the trans mount and it has worked out fine. There are many threads with great pics of the floors being done if you're interested, the Build Thread in Chatter Box forum would be a good place to start.

It will be interesting to see if the body moves or releases when you unbolt the jig.

The last time I bought one they were going for about $300

The ConVerTT hinge pocket, everyone's going to want one now.

Looks good, but now it's begging for a front fender

All of the valve cover bolts are M6x1 and yes it could act as a vacuum leak, best to fix it asap. The torque spec on those bolts is 6-7 ftlbs so not very much, you could get away with just a Helicoil insert. A Time-cert would be better but more expensive and might be overkill.

Upper left is the one, looks like 43 yr old white.