grannyknot

Well most people are going to want white, strong vibrant colours are going to look out of place but that orange might do the trick, better if you could find a way to dull it down. It's just a fuse box cover, you don't want it to draw the eye to it, you just want it to blend in.

I have used phosphoric acid based rust removers and metal preps a lot and although for the most part they do the job well it's the iron phosphate they leave behind that always causes problems for me. Even when I have washed off the product while it was it wet then washed with detergent, I've even tried to neutralizes it with a baking soda paste and scrubbed into the metal I still end up with white powder bleeding through the paint. In fact the only success story I can claim with using phosphoric acid is by sanding the metal down until all of the iron phosphate is removed before painting, that works. So I have done a lot of reading today on citric acid and it seems that after de-rusting with citric acid and washing, the metal is ready for primer immediately. One less step and cheaper? Considering agricultural grade citric acid is about $2 per pound it's certainly worth a bit of experimenting with xanthan gum and sawdust to see if I can come up with a quick and easy way to deal with rust on vertical surfaces or hard to reach corners. I'll give it a try and see what happens.

There is a scooter shop in England that sells it, https://www.scooter-center.com/en/rust-remover-rostdelete-1000g-7676573 but the shipping isn't cheap, haven't been able to find any distributors in NA yet. Citric acid isn't that hard to get a hold of, maybe I'll try some garage chemistry?

Evapo-Rust in a paste form? Please let us know.

Hey Kats, I think I have the high tech version of that manual.

The Nissan dealerships will be just as unfamiliar, find a good independent or better yet do it yourself, these are very easy cars to work on. The knowledge base here is enormous if you need any help. That is a pretty great story, try and get all the paper work you can on the car and welcome to the forum.

Oh I think you are right! My faith in his bodyman has been restored? I just saw how shiny they were and assumed they aluminum rivets, using zip screws is exactly how I do it too. Need new glasses.

We can't all afford or get the opportunity to purchase a perfect example as our starting point, but I believe bringing back a neglected or abused Z is a much greater achievement than starting with a cream puff.

It'll be like a brand new body.

Thanks, have you ever heard one of these engines that has been tweaked a bit? It's a glorious sound, sounds like a day at the track. Well, his prices are better than TTT and Arizona Z car for a comparable package and I'm not saying it's a bad kit it just drives me crazy that I spent $3500 cnd and I still have to work the bugs out. So order a couple of 45 degree elbows from Wilwood for the front calipers and take a file to the parking brake inserts before you climb under the car.

Your guy seems to do very good work so I'm kind of surprised to see those rivets, I would ask him to weld it.

Thanks Mark, I was going to put on a much larger air duct on it but decided I would go with stock 3.5" MAF to start with and that would get me on the road quickly, if I want more power after that I can always go with the CSL setup at a later time. I used the thinnest aluminum I could hoping to get some of the induction sound to come through, we'll see.

Things are moving along, the Silvermine brake kit is in, it certainly isn't a "couple of hour" job as stated on the site. That's because most of the fitment problems have been figured out but not all of them, it took me the better part of 2 days to install. First the bad, there is no written instructions, some random photos that aren't very specific of the steps required and a video where every time the instructor runs into a problem that part is edited out. If the adapter plates were stamped left/right, inward/outward that would have save me many hours but the worst problem occurs when you are on your back under the car fitting the new parking brake cable into place. The stock collar on the car that holds the cable in place has a ID of .475", the matching insert on the new cable is .500" so with the Diff and Diff mount in the way you have to try and get a large chisel or screw driver up there try and open that collar up enough for the cable insert to slide in. ? That's a problem that is so simple to remedy while the cable is being made. And one more, the two 90 degree elbow fittings for the flex hose runs the hose too close to the tire that it rubs so I had to buy two 45 degree elbows from Wilwood finish the install. This could be a great kit if those few problems were sorted before it went out the door, but Wilwood puts out an awesome product, I can't wait to see how this kit effects the stopping distance. I'm still fooling around with the fresh air intake and trying to make it work, I have sent it off to Ben to finish off the welds and make them pretty and the new radiator and Spal fan arrived so it is starting to look like an engine bay again.

That's weird, I only have 1 photo in my profile and it doesn't show the Ontario plate.

Beautiful work.

It could be your when your car reached the end of the production line it was missing something or wouldn't start so was pushed off to the side for diagnosis, then at a later date when it was fixed or complete entered the line again. I use to own 0001955 and it was stamped 03/70

Very easy to do, they fall out as you remove the strut mount, I doubt you find much in the way of wear on them but they will need a cleaning with solvent and compressed air. After that just pack them again with bearing grease and install.

I thought you were Dimwit #1 and I was #2, I'll tell you what, I'll wear the crown this year and you can have back next year, deal?

I spent the day cleaning grounds and power connectors and worked my way around to the dim P/S headlight, I cleaned every connector and couldn't figure out why it was still dim. There was nothing left to check so I had a look at the fuses, Bingo, all of them were original and so oxidized that there wasn't much current passing through. Replaced all of the fuses and it fixed the headlights but blew the ignition relay, water had leaked into it at some time in the past and it was ready to pop, I guess it wasn't use to full power. Whiteheads had one to sell so I'll give that a go tomorrow and hope the next weakest link doesn't show up. So the car has a Stage 2 DatsunSpirt engine with only 5,000 miles on it, the car itself has 95,000 mi. New 16" Panasport wheels with Toyo Proxies , new complete exhaust system but WAY too loud so I'll install a resonator and see if that will bring it down. The 3.54 diff has been overhauled and a full poly bushing kit was installed. I think we'll be removing most of the poly and replacing with rubber. Tim has lots of plans and ideas for the car but they are evolving and changing from day to day, I have encouraged him to just drive the car as it is for the spring, summer, fall season, then in Oct. we'll sit down and draw up a plan, I have a feeling his list of wants are going to be very different in the fall. He has wanted a Z since he was a kid but has never driven one so this is going to be lots fun.

Must be an elitist Liberal conspiracy.

OK so you just switched around 85 for 86 on the relay?

I've been thinking about doing the LED headlight thing and was wondering how the LED bulbs that are expecting a Positive switching reacted to your Neg switching harness?

Wait, the wiper has not been touching the wound wire? If that's the case then there's the answer to your problem, no wonder the needle is all over the place.

It's funny about Mill Supply, they are in the same town and about 2-3 blocks away from Tabco. I just assumed that Mill Supply was a subsidiary, one of the guys at Mill Supply told me they get some of their stuff from Tabco.