grannyknot

Lubricant is okay although the gas will wash it off pretty quickly, I just thought that if the needle was jumping around that there might be something on the wire that momentarily broke the contact.

So a buddy of mine has been hunting for a 77-78/280 for a long time and has come close to buying several times but for one reason or another they didn't happen. Just a couple of weeks ago one came up on ebay that fit bill perfectly and Tim went after it and won the auction, it is now sitting in his garage waiting for spring! The car is very clean with only one area of serious corrosion under the battery tray and a few spots here and there, easy fixes. I'm going to do a little pre-safety certificate work on it tomorrow so will come home with lots of pics and details. Over the next couple years we are going to transform it into the car he has always wanted, here are a couple of pics that were sent to me.

I can't help you with your bouncing needle except to say make sure all electrical connections between the sender and gauge are clean. Also, the wiper arm should touch the wound wire, the wire is one continuous strand from end to end so as the wiper moves up and down so does the resistance and that is what move the needle. Hmmmm, check to see if there is anything stuck on the wire that might be preventing contact with the wiper at one point.

Are you going to leave them black? Black trim on green has always been one of my favorite combos.

Two different cars, externally they are identical in many ways but starting with the 260's changes were made to the rear suspension setup, added door bracing, extra bumper supports for the 5mph rule. Nissan continued to do major and minor changes to the platform right up to when they brought in the ZX. I'm not exactly sure when the major changes to the floors happened, late 260's I think, so hopefully some of the other members will jump in here and fill in the details of when those changes were done.

@BoldUlysses, so you can see I'm totally wrong in my advice but I just remembered why I thought the hole was in the bottom of the pocket, like you I found myself trying to get the fuel sender wires up through the hole above the tank. I really didn't want to drop the tank again so I spliced in an extension and created a access hole in that pocket near the fill hose. Lazy but it works fine.

Tabco is where everybody gets their Z panels, I think they are the last manufacturer making Z panels except for Zedd Findings and Bad Dog. You might as well buy from the maker, sometimes they are kind of slow but I've always got the stuff I ordered.

I guess I'm thinking of the 280z

You think those are crappy, wait until you see the factory welds that join the transmission tunnel to the fire wall behind the heater core. Mind you that is a horrible place to have crawl into with a helmet on and try to see what you're doing but yeah the first time I saw them I was sure someone had got in there and did a hack job.

The fuel level sender harness comes up into the car through the bottom or side of the rear P/S pocket behind the rear wheel, you will have to remove the rear interior side panel, behind that you will see the fuel filler hose. Just in front of that search around with your hand and you'll find it, it should have a rubber grommet in the hole.

It looks like the lip on the new sill plate is a bit longer than it should be and the lip needs to be pushed down some so the finisher can slip over top. You could take a block of wood, place it on the edge of lip and with a hammer tap the wood while moving it along the lip, it looks like you only need to move it down about an 1/8". If the paint cracks you'll have to touch that up before installing the finisher.

Is that a stock colour? Looks like silver with a bit of tan mixed, looks great.

I like the engraved look on the shift knob, but you will probably see more sales of the fuse cover if it has a decal.

Emigrate.

Welcome to the forum, looks like she's coming along well. That is a very interesting wheel you have on the rear.

The old Toyota and Maxima brake set I replaced was 92 lbs total so the new Wilwoods are 5lbs more, I will be finished installing the new brakes tomorrow so will go into the kit a bit more then. The stock elbow on the airbox exits right into the shock tower so I had to come up with a way to feed the air in, I'm not sure this going to work yet but I'll carry on with it until I get the engine running. Right on the end of the tear drop will be the aluminum tube that will head out in front of the radiator but it's still changing daily at this point. And just got the ECU back from Kassel Performance, they deleted the extra programing that I don't need for the engine swap, flashed a new tune onto it and made up this plug n play harness for me. I'm sure I could have struggled through it and made one up myself but I learned my lesson on the last engine and so I will just pay someone else to do that stuff for me now.

Welcome to forum, you'll like here. PICS, PICS, PICS

Damnit Jim, I'm buying as fast as I can.

I feel for you, didn't already have paint on those fenders?

That's funny, I have always thought of all 240z stock seat as one person benches, I can't handle them for more than an hour.

It's in lovely condition, I would think seriously about bumping the price up, it's only us old farts that know how to drive stick anymore, automatics are going to rise.

$42,240 ATM, this should be fun.

yeah, I was going to say don't pull on that hand brake too hard. Doesn't matter really, just long as they have room to radiate heat and catch the breeze. You'll notice a difference when you get the SS flex lines, I found they really firmed the pedal up.

I just removed my Maxima calipers a couple of days ago, so it looks like your adapter plate is clocked too far to the left or CCW on the D/S, lets call it 10:00 at the moment but if you remove the plate and move it CW by one bolt hole to make it sit at 1:00 then there will be no interference and the parking brake cable will have a straighter line. It also means you can't use the stock rubber flex line anymore and will have to go with the longer SS flex lines. If you don't want to go that route you could start shaving both the brake line mount and the parking brake mount on the caliper.

I would loosen by a few turns both bolts on the D/S and the inboard bolt on the P/S then with the hatch still in the open position push down on the D/S to try and get the D/S hinge to sit lower in the pocket. Once you have it as low as it will go tighten the bolts while pushing down and then see what that looks like when closed. When the bolts are loose you may have to pivot the hatch on the far P/S bolt a few times to break the paint around the edges of the hinge.