grannyknot

It is enormous, and so are the calipers.

What Datsun car are you working on? Because in the 240z-280z you can't drop the subframe, it's a uni-body. Can you post some photos so we can see what you are talking about?

How about you clean it up so we can see what the actual condition is? If those brown spots are rust we need to know before making an offer.

I had the custom driveshaft I had made for the S38/G280 trans modified to fit the S54/G420, needed to be a little shorter with a new joint, that's all mounted so on to the ECU, my favorite And my new Silvermine brake kits arrived, hopefully these will give me the braking I'm looking for. The front calipers are massive yet weigh nothing, very impressed with the kit so far, the parking brake calipers are very cool and the replacement cable is nicely made. All five boxes comes in at 97lbs so take a 1 lb off for cardboard boxes and packing, when I get all of the other Toyota and Maxima calipers/rotors off I'll weigh those too and post it here. The aluminum adapters I think I will powered coat before they go on otherwise they look like crap by next year.

Well not new, reconditioned but I'm okay with that. Both are off of ebay, the first is a power burnisher, 7amp, 6 speeds, very tough unit. Not a tool you see a lot of in NA but has lots of different grits available from wire wheels, 60 grit flapper drums, straight sand paper drums, Scotchbite type drums from very coarse right up to the finest polishing drums. I have started mounting mine in the vice and using it to work on small pieces, best of all mine was less than $100. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Professional+900+Watt+Burnisher+with+Abrasive+Sanding+Roller+&_sacat=0 The second tool is a KETT sheet metal nibbler, this type of tool is commonly available but not from KETT, they use to only sell to industry, I don't know if that has changed but I grabbed it when I saw it, think I paid $75, came with new blades. Nice smooth action, I think there are a few units left. https://www.ebay.com/itm/KETT-Model-K-200-Electric-Power-Metal-Shears-Nibblers/202784171469?hash=item2f36e0e5cd:g:VRwAAOSwj~RdhukD

Exactly, I never walk down that isle anymore

I'm sure the zinc Amsoil uses is the same zinc that kills cats. I can't find it at the moment but Amsoil has a blurb about this very subject, if I remember right the zinc you get in aftermarket third party products is in the wrong formulation and just dilutes the balance of the additive package put in by the oil company whether it be Amsoil or Royal Purple or Castrol. It might be BS I don't know but when you have entire rows of shelves in the automotive section dedicated to "mechanic in a can" products I have to wonder if all this stuff did 1/10th of what it says it does then why wouldn't the oil companies use and put the other guys out of business. I trust the large oil companies that have engineers on staff to formulate the additives required to do the different kind of jobs that the oil is asked to do.

The "levelness" of the engine isn't anywhere near as important as the driveline angles for the driveshaft. As I understand it you are swapping in a different trans and have to make up a new or modified trans mount so just concentrate on the driveline angles, you want to make sure that you are not altering the angle on one end of the driveshaft without compensating on the other. Unequal angles can get you some terrible vibrations at certain rpms as well as wear out the ujoints prematurely, if a few ounces of used oil remain in the pan after an oil change that is not going to hurt anything.

I have been using it 4 yrs now and love it, bit expensive but I get distributor pricing, I use it in Datsun and BMW engines and down in LA you would have no problem with the viscosity, it's also available in 10w40.

That's interesting, opening up the system decreased the drone. I have been fighting drone for yrs now and all my efforts seem to do is move it up or down the rpm range.

Looking at it again I can see he has already removed the valve guides so he can get tight in around the guide hole, smart.

How do you keep from grinding out the valve seats and guides or does it not matter because they will be replaced anyway?

Right, 3 speeds, very versatile. When it's in use I guess you will spin structure around and open the roll up shop door so you can exhaust the dust or paint fumes out the door?

Beautiful! So negative pressure is the lower fans on pulling air from the booth with the roof fans turned off and positive pressure is the reverse, lower fans turned off and roof fans turned on pushing air into the booth?

Then perhaps the fenders/sugar scoops were sitting higher?

Hey, I've got one of those, cheap insurance.

He is also a national hero there.

One of these days I would like to hire you to do a Z for me.

I can only guess that after the car has been sitting for 10-20 yrs the grease gets hard, crap accumulates in the runners and channels and when someone goes to roll the window up or down that it sticks or jams. Then they force it and those arms bend, any other theories?

I have a couple of regulators out in the storage area, I'll go get them today and take the same photos as you have to see if there is a difference. But just looking at at your regulator it appears that both the hinged arm and the fixed arm have been bent. The front guide and window/guide look normal. Here is a 260z P/S regulator pic I just found on google, you can see that the hinged arm is straight and the fixed arm is flatter than yours. Since your isn't working the way it is at the moment you might as well pop it in a vice and try bending it back into shape.

I just go up to the parts counter with all the part numbers written out on a piece of paper, hand it to him and ask him to look them up. Never tell them what year the car is, you just get that blank stare. John, can you post a pic of the parts you are looking for? I have several distributors just for parts.

Wow, in a garage sale? Who's @zKars garage? Those are unicorns, nice score.

Sometimes there is slop in hinge itself from age and wear, if what Pop's advises doesn't work you'll have to take the hood off, hinges off and grind or drill the 6 mounting holes larger. The cutting should be the top area of each hole so when tightened the hinges sit lower, that should take up the slack. But try the pushing down on the hood with loosened bolts first.

You couldn't go wrong with that one, it has been taken care of by Banzai Motorworks so that will cost a bit more but will still probably sell in the $14,000-17,000 range.

That slide is as you say, a guide to insure that the cap is put on in only one direction, sounds like from your description that someone forced the cap on 180 degrees in the wrong position and crumpled the guide. It is made of thin zinc plated steel held in by one screw and if the corrosion between it and the cast aluminum is bad enough you may have to destroy it to get it out.