grannyknot

Yes, thanks, I never found that thread when I was doing my horns and nice to see a full page of text without an apology for a "long read". An olive drab rattle can paint is the most practical finish for a few small pieces but I'm convinced that the finish on the horns, heater fan and seat rails was zinc plating. When cleaning up the seat rails the old green finish just didn't act like paint, it didn't load up the sand paper, it was very thin.

Now roll it outside and get a few flakes on it.⛄

Thanks Bruce, that is a big help.

Now if only we could add a clause to NAFTA 2.0 that stipulates that all cars restored in Canada shall be purchased at a 40% premium.

It is an after market tach from I think 15-20 yrs ago and 510's didn't come with a tach unless it was special ordered. Here you go,

Red is pos., green or black is neg. Will I fry something if the wire I try to the coil first is not the right one?

Well it wasn't as difficult as I thought would be, I'll just throw the backing plate into the bucket of stuff going to the platers. The tach was never hooked up and appears to be new or lightly used, it has 4 wires, red, black, white and green. Anyone want to guess which one goes to the ignition coil? I have a spare horn relay that I can use but I'm going to try some Evaporust to see if I can get this horn relay working again.

Could be, need to see it.

That is a ticking rust bomb, it has been sitting outside for a loooong time. Is that standing water next to the spare tire? Even if it isn't you can see the water mark where it has been, also the pooling marks behind the seats. However, it is fairly complete which is a big plus, if you are prepared to do a bare metal shell on a rotisserie restoration then the car is fixable ... but not at $14k. In USD money maybe $6,000 tops. Unfortunately, cars like this that use to go to the dump are now the affordable way to get into the game. If you do all the work and you're through you can have a safe, dependable and presentable Z for another $20,000, once you start paying others to do the work, well you can imagine what it will cost. But if you take that $26,000 dollars you can buy a very nice 280z that has never seen rust.

Show us some pics and we will be able to give you better advice.

I think you are going to have to pull it all again, it could be the spring in the regulator or one of the rollers jammed in a track. Take lots lots of pics and post them.

I started tearing down the instrument cluster today, PO manged to lose the clear plastic windows and looks like he installed an aftermarket tach, bent the speedo needle but the circuit board is the real problem. A leak at the bottom of the windshield has rusted the backing plate behind the board but also the copper on one of the lines has corroded and broken the circuit. You can see where he tried to solder a jumper wire over top of the break. I was going to drill out the 5 brass rivets holding the board to the backing plate so I can remove the rust. Is there anyway to repair a circuit board? Thanks

I do have it backwards, sorry about that, could be my dyslexia coming back or senility creeping in.

hmmmm ... what about K Y?

What the tech is saying makes no sense to me, a 100 micron filter is filtering particles to close 100 microns in size, that is close to 7 times smaller than a 15 micron filter. So the 100 filter material has to be much finer and denser to catch the tiny particles and will slow the flow a lot more than a 15 will. Lets say a bug screen on a window represents the 15 filter, then the 100 filter would be more like a cotton sheet, that's a bit of an exaggeration but I hope you see my point. The 100 filter not only slows down the flow more than the 15 but gets clogged up easier and faster restricting flow even more. This is all wrong too

You might want to switch those filters around because at the moment the 15 mic filter is doing nothing, there is nothing in the gas flow for it to catch. Putting the 15 mic at the pump will still get 95% of any particles and give you better psi then the 60 mic cleans the rest before it enters the carbs. Everything I said above is wrong

I don't know guys, I have read all the sniping you are talking about from those few who engage in it and I was scared $h--less they were going to eat me alive when I listed my 77/280z a few months back. But I knew BaT was going to not only going to sell my car quickly but it was also going to get me the best price for it and as it turned out I don't think there was one negative comment for the entire 7 days. The same goes for an engine I sold on Bat just a couple of weeks back. Maybe I got lucky but I don't think the bidders pay much attention to the peanut gallery, in fact I think they are quite distinct from one another. You don't see active bidders competing in those ego driven squabbles.

Damn! That bites, I know the feeling well, sometimes you just miss stuff. But you're right, we are all lucky enough to be able to play like this. Thanks for showing us warts and all, you don't learn much from perfection.

Fast moving wire wheel works too.

That was my answer to #1? #2, the rail ends where the rail ends, as long as the front of the rail starts a little forward of the seam the end takes care of its self.

Those are the best days, you get to use the loud tools and toxic chemicals, the car is looking great Mark, you're in the home stretch.

Not same but could be made to work, you can borrow either or both, made in the beginning of the last century in Providence R.I. and Athol, Massachusetts.

Good work, I'd be interested to see if the rust comes back especially on the roof of the tank. Muriatic acid is very effective at removing the rust but I've noticed that it resists being neutralized almost like it gets into the metal.

A Map gas torch will help loosen those plugs, and be sure to take the fill plug off first, you can always drain by removing the cover.