grannyknot

Me too.

Yes and No, it is sooo subjective, when you "upgrade" something like brakes, the perception of improvement is in direct proportion to the money and effort that was spent. Or it sure seems that way sometimes, if you're going to do weekend tootling then your stock brakes are fine just make sure they are good working order. Many guys track the classic Z with nothing more than stock brakes and good quality pads. I put in a 280z booster, 15/16th MC, SS flex lines, speed bleeders, good pads,the works, and although the brake feeling is good it is not as good as the brakes on my old 1987 BMW. Next I'm pulling it all off and going for the Wilwood setup front and back from Silvermine.

Transmissions are drained and stored for yrs without any problems, you'll be okay. Spindle pins, lots written on the subject, if yours are moving you're in luck. You will need new pins now that the threads are damaged, try and get penetrating fluid in there and as long as the pin keeps moving well just keep hammering. If it gets stuck hammer it back to where it was moving, more penetrant, use pair of Visegrips to spin it then keep wacking it in the original direction, take your time.

Looking in my notes from when I did the conversion for my car I have written, Rear disc brakes, -85-87 Maxima calipers w/11.2" rotor or -88 Maxima calipers w'10.2" rotor from 280zx/240sx rotor I can't remember which combo I went with, Hybridz brake section has lots of this info stickied at the top of the page but you have to hunt through those threads to find it.

Welcome Dodd, what kind of problems have you run into? I know the feeling, have wanted to take the sledge hammer to my Z many times.

Once you drop the oil pump look up where the pump mates to the block, you'll see 2 holes about a 1/2" in dia, one goes to the filter and the other one goes to the pick up, use a turkey baster to squirt lots of oil in, the filter hole will drain back toward you right away, the other should take the oil, that's the pick up tube.

It could be that the oil pick up tube needs to be primed, at any rate pull the pump and have a look at it. If the oil pump was working fine when the car was parked then there is no reason I can see that it isn't working now, they don't just fail, they wear out over a long period of time. I have never owned a 260 but it would make sense to order the hose kit for that engine.

I pay him to post stuff like that every now and then, thanks buddy, cheque is in the mail.

Okay so I'm dragging this one back out because big changes are happening, the S38 engine experiment was a success in many ways and in a few ways not so much. So I pulled it and sold it on BaT, wonderful engine but it is just not supported anymore. I have rebuilt the e46 S54 M3 engine and that will be the new power plant. So far the swap is going well, the engine is in, transmission and diff are lined up and the custom driveshaft is being built right now. I should have it back in a week, next step is to have the BMW ECU re programed to eliminate all the extras that aren't needed and set to wiring it up. I finally got around to making the top of the radiator support removable, considering how often the engines come and go it will be a big help, just have smooth it out, do some filling/sanding and try to match the paint. The original intake airbox sticks right out into the shock tower and also had problems with the #1 and #6 cylinders having uneven access to air so I have opened it up will try to fabricate a custom funnel to the air filter.

On an engine that has been sitting for so long I wouldn't go rev crazy on it until you have eased her back into service, maybe out on the highway. The duration of the run times isn't all that important, just have new good quality oil in it and do 2-3 short oil changes in a row to wash out the grunge. It is a toss up between the carbs but I believe the SU's will hold their tune longer than the webers, once SU's are properly set up they're rock solid. You might also take the opportunity with the SU's being separate at the moment to ship them off to ZTherapy for a complete rebuild, they do amazing work and their initial set up is pretty close to perfect or at least both sets I had done by them were. So when are we going to see some pics of you're car? This forum can help you solve any problem you might have with you're Z but the price for that is pics.

In the early Z's nothing went there, it was a blank.

Just had a look, I don't have a spare but we know someone who probably does, @zKars

When you do go to start it up it might be a good idea to bypass the fuel lines and tank and run a small temporary tank from the engine bay to the carbs. The rust in the tank and lines is just going to clog up your nice clean carbs. When you use the starter to prelube the engine before start up it can take up to 30 secs for the oil to reach the cam.

That one prevents the tensioner from opening too far, the ones in my pics hold the tensioner fully closed so you don't have to fight against it while installing the cam gear.

This is also a good timing chain tool, too bad it is not available for L series engines. These tensioners are from the later KA engines.

That is good info, Permatex makes a black polyurethane adhesive/sealant #59503 that they don't even list on their site. It is very versatile and also makes a great gasket on anything except high heat applications.

I stopped buying Purple Power and just buy this for $8.00, can probably make 4 gals with it. Should be at most hardware stores or pool supplies places.

Not to worry, she's in your garage and will be cared for now. Welcome to the forum, what are you're plans?

No tooth brushes get thrown away in my house, not until they have spent a couple yrs in my shop, Pledge furniture polish cleans the muck off the white paint well and leaves a shine.

I'm game, just have to think of some way to pay for it. What do you think, somewhere between $30- 40K?

That's the one, the FSM that are free to view on NICO doesn't show it but I found some that do, weird. Thanks. I think I know where the air is going during compression, the wobbly valves guides combined with these deep pits on one side of both exhaust valves on the #3, it's the only culprit I can point to. Since I have to get the valve seats done I might as well smooth out all this rough flashing first before taking it to get the machining done, then I can convince myself it's making more power

Nissan doesn't even list it or show it on the exploded diagrams.

The 510 I recently picked came with an SR20DET but after opening it up all I could see is money flying away, I let it go cheap and picked up a KA24DE, 5spd trans, ECU and wiring harness for a good price. Pretty grimey but I think it has had an easy life, regular oil changes for sure, the cams are very nice, all the valves, rings and bearings are within spec. Strange thing is 3 cylinders had 175 psi on a cold engine except #3 which was 139 psi, but the rings & piston on #3 were identical to the rest, all good. The exhaust valves guides are pretty sloppy on all cylinders but more so on #3, could worn guides really cause a loss in compression of 36 psi? I can't find anything else that might be the cause. The block is stripped down and ready to go out for cleaning and decking but I can't figure out how to get the chain oiler out, I can't figure out if it is pressed in or screwed in, it looks fairly delicate and I'm afraid it will get damaged if I leave it in, any ideas?

I know I have more but can't find them right now.

"Not intended for electronics" that's kind of limiting isn't it?